Newbie alert. Moonroof question.

Tom Kelly

Active Member
Hi Eric, Last month I only had a few 0-70 mph logs which were not enough for you to rally evaluate. I got to Lebanon Valley Dragway today in near perfect conditions and got in three runs, The first was aborted by me at around 85 mph due to KR signal on the scanmaster. 2nd run had tiny knock at around 75 mph and the third run was knock free. That's the one I think weill be my guide. Note that I wasn't really concerned today with reaction time or 60 foot times but rather achieving my personal limit of 23psi without knock. Final settings were Parameter 1 = 132 and Parameter 2 = 134 (I probably could have reduced parameter 2 to 133 but I didn't. Track temperature was low 60's and low humidity. I am attaching the two logfiles and the time slips to go with them. When you have a chance could you look them over and tell me if all looks well. Given the perfect day I am assuming mid 12's is what I will have at 23 psi. A little better with good 60 ft. time. Sound about right for my setup? thanks so much for all your advice.
Tom
 

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60 foot. You'll need to flash the convertor to around 3500 to lower your 60 foot. 3 grand won't get it done. The one file showing KR doesn't appear to be real. You hit 23 PSI. With a 1.6x launch and 27 PSI you'll be into the 11's easy. I'm curious what Eric thinks of the NB/WB reading at the traps on the KR free run. 744/11.1
 
60 foot. You'll need to flash the convertor to around 3500 to lower your 60 foot. 3 grand won't get it done. The one file showing KR doesn't appear to be real. You hit 23 PSI. With a 1.6x launch and 27 PSI you'll be into the 11's easy. I'm curious what Eric thinks of the NB/WB reading at the traps on the KR free run. 744/11.1
Yes definitely gotta work on the sixty foot. On the last run I tried to go higher and I blew through the lights. Had to retreat and start over. I guess I wasn't holding the brake hard enough. Yes 27 psi would definitely lower the ET but since I've got my kids inheritance invested in this car I don't want to go higher than 23. Probably being anal but that's me. I appreciate you taking the time to look over the files. The KR in the second to last run was minor and came at around 75 mph. A shift point? Did the same in my first run. I may have over enrichened the motor but I did enjoy the absence of KR in that final run. For what it is though is that about normal performance for my setup at 23 psi in your opinion. Absent the horrible 60 ft of course.
 
I like looking at PL files to see what is different to my personal files
1. Why dose theTPS not lock on and stay flat at 4.66 ?
2. Why dose the 1-2 shift look long and not as sharp as the 2-3 ?
3. The KR is not in a spot you would say is false but O2s look good
You spraying Alky ?
 
Fueling looks fine, so it likely 'heard' something. I agree with Tim...the 1-2 shift lags. The convertor might be tad tight for that 49. Work on the 60 and you'll be into the low 12's on 23 PSI.
 
Fueling looks fine, so it likely 'heard' something. I agree with Tim...the 1-2 shift lags. The convertor might be tad tight for that 49. Work on the 60 and you'll be into the low 12's on 23 PSI.
I am spraying ALKY. Could you elaborate on the converter comment?
 
I am spraying ALKY. Could you elaborate on the converter comment?

That's a 2800. It should spool that 49 easily. I thought you has a stock D5 in it...didn't read your sig. Next time out, hold the brakes harder. If you haven't got line lock, then you'll heat the rear brakes on the burnout. I have a plug and play line lock on my channel. I also ran larger rear wheel cylinders and all long pads. I could hold any RPM on the line I wanted.

For you I'd try bringing the boost up a tad slower on the line...maybe you're bringing it up to fast and it's 'pushing'.
 
That's a 2800. It should spool that 49 easily. I thought you has a stock D5 in it...didn't read your sig. Next time out, hold the brakes harder. If you haven't got line lock, then you'll heat the rear brakes on the burnout. I have a plug and play line lock on my channel. I also ran larger rear wheel cylinders and all long pads. I could hold any RPM on the line I wanted.

For you I'd try bringing the boost up a tad slower on the line...maybe you're bringing it up to fast and it's 'pushing'.
I’ll work on the launch and consider bigger brakes up front. I don’t do burnouts. The MT ET Streets don’t seem to need one at 16 psi inflation. MT tech support advised no burnouts also. Maybe I’ll start to see slip if I launch at higher rpm’s.
 
Scooby is talking about the backs 7/8 wheel cylinder Aka 87 S10 .and two sets of break shoes, using the long shoes.
They come in a set two long two short ,the long shoe on the back short on front of the assembly. Buy two sets trash the shorts. Longs both front and back on the assembly. I can hold 30 psi at the line.
I’m leaning towards the 2 gear band not grabbing. I see no mention of a transmission build in your SIG
Alky set at default in the box and 6 or 7 on the knob ? And straight M1.
I think your doing a good job one mistake can ruin a mans day.
 
I will look into stronger rear brakes. I always thought the fronts did all the work. I have the aluminum finned drums on the back. Not sure of the shoes. I will check. Yes AEM wideband. Alcohol is 50/50 with water and default at the box and all in on the dial. I am still not really sure whether the dial controls quantity or timing. So I just put it all in. Transmission is original with 110,000 miles on it. the only thing that's not re-done on the whole car I think. Serviced when I bought the car with 100,000 miles on it, Engine rebuilt with best available parts and balanced professionally. Comp cams roller cam, Rear inspected and serviced when I bought it also. Aftermarket cover with main cap hold downs. Have had it for about five years. Two years spent in mechanical, frame and body restoration. Stripped to bare metal and completely restored except for the interior. Here is a picture of the day it finished the paint shop and I took it home.
 

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Scooby is talking about the backs 7/8 wheel cylinder Aka 87 S10 .and two sets of break shoes, using the long shoes.
They come in a set two long two short ,the long shoe on the back short on front of the assembly. Buy two sets trash the shorts. Longs both front and back on the assembly. I can hold 30 psi at the line.
I’m leaning towards the 2 gear band not grabbing. I see no mention of a transmission build in your SIG
Alky set at default in the box and 6 or 7 on the knob ? And straight M1.
I think your doing a good job one mistake can ruin a mans day.
I understand very little about automatic transmissions. Is 2 gear band not grabbing a fixable problem?
 
I’m not sure about a 50/50 mix. Import boys run it with good results. Julio set the Alky up for straight M1. I would revisit the Alcohol , Nitrous Tech section, and reread the Tuning the Alkycontrol in the sticky notes section.
The transmission in these cars can handle the power pretty good. Your at age horsepower and miles it is at its lifecycle end.
If you can remove the transmission yourself, this is what I would do. I would call Lonnie at Extreme Automatics’s http://www.extremeautomatics.com/ . I was right in the same spot your in for horsepower and wasn’t going to go any further. Lonnie recommenced a stage II but a stage I would be enough, it was a perfect fit for 3 years BUT I couldn’t stay at my 11.99 ET forever. I took out a perfectly good stag I and bought a stage II.
He has a good warranty and refreshing for life.
Dave at http://www.turbobuickperformance.com/standard-p-114.html is well none on the board ,And in New York too.
 
Forgot to comment on the pic . Nice car and to be truthful I always wanted the 86 GN far less of them than 87 or a 87 Ttype .
 
Messing with the rear brakes fucks up the brake bias. Get into a panic stop on the street or in the rain and the ass end will come around on you. You've been warned. If you're gonna build your transmission, build it for way more power than you'll ever throw at it. Tim is giving you solid advice.
 
Messing with the rear brakes fucks up the brake bias. Get into a panic stop on the street or in the rain and the ass end will come around on you. You've been warned. If you're gonna build your transmission, build it for way more power than you'll ever throw at it. Tim is giving you solid advice.
Thanks for the info. I have saved Dave's Website for future reference. It looks like he is in Long Island, near me. Brandon De Corde, a well known tuner around Pennsylvania way recommended the 50/50 to me. I am thinking that a reasonable goal for my 60 ft. sound like about 1.7 Achieving that would give me around 12.25 times at 23 psi. I would be happy with that. If there is a weakness in the transmission that can be fixed, even better. As always, you guys have given me plenty to ponder. Thanks
 
Straight M1, blue control knob set at "6". What tires are you running?
 
Using the Wallace racing calculator your torque convertor slip is 12.8 percent. I ASSUME it's a lock up convertor. I'm not a transmission mechanic, but I'm seeing 1.2 seconds for the intermediate band to fully engage 2nd gear. My recommendation would be to give the .016 file to a transmission mechanic and have him look at the 1-2 shift.

If you haven't already done so, tighten up your rear drum brakes for max holding power.
 
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