Newbie Help


Hey everyone,

I recently acquired an 87 Grand National. Right now it has a KB Ultimate Chip, test pipe, fuel regulator (tta preset at 45psi), welded driver side head, kirbans 3 in dp. Okay, I have no idea what most of this is, I am extremely naive with these type of motors. Can anyone help give me the list of basic mods to do to the car? The guys on the hawaii board told me to ask about a chip with a lean cruize mode in order to get better mpg. (i really need to get good mpg b/c of hawaii gas prices heh heh). Thanks a bunch guys!

What everybody is correctly suggesting is that you upgrade the stock pieces before you crank it up. The factory system was designed for factory boost / fueling / derivability and emissions. If we want to go faster we are going to have to change some of the elements of the factory system. We are also going to need more information than the factory gauge package provided.
Ok can I have further clarification on the ADJ FP reg-wastegate
ADJ FP = Adjustable Fuel pressure regulator. This allows you to manually trim the fuel pressure. Every car has a different fuel pressure sweet spot so you are going to need the pieces to adjust yours also. More air is going to need more fuel. You'll also need a good, removable, fuel pressure gauge. Fuel pressure is generally measured "static", that is with the vacuum line removed from the regulator.
ADJ - wastegate = Adjustable wastegate. This allows for the same trim adjustments for your boost settings. Poor fuel/ hot day /high timing = less boost. Good fuel / dense cold air / less timing = more boost. Rock solid boost control is critical.
160 stat = 160 degree thermostat. This will keep the engine cooler and provide better performance. No downside on derivability except your heater won't blow as hot on the cold winter days. High boost creates high heat. We need to keep things cool under the hood from both a performance and longevity standpoint.
307-340 walbro hotwired = New Walbro 307 or 340 Fuel Pump. The stock fuel pump was marginal at best so we need to make sure we can flow the higher volumes of fuel at the higher HP levels. No downsides, it's an "in-tank" pump. Hotwired means running a hot wire from the alternator so the pump never goes low on voltage. Fuel pumps are like any other electric motor, they need adequate voltage to perform as designed.
FP and Boost gauge = Removable fuel pressure gauge so you know your settings and an aftermarket boost gauge. The stock boost gauge is notoriously inaccurate. You need precise boost and fuel information at all times.
Scantool = An absolute must. The various sensors on the car are constantly gathering information and sending that data to the computer. The computer in turn is making decisions based upon that input. The sensor data and the decisions the computer is making have a massive impact on the derivability and performance of the car.
You need to know both what information is being gathered by the sensors and what the computer is doing about it. The sensor data is the common denominator or langauge of our cars, we all gather the same information, we all speak the same language.
Scanmaster II is a great start, but if you already have a laptop then look into a data logger like
either TurboLink or Direct Scan.
Now that you have the adjustable features you need, adequate fueling and good information - it's time to safely crank up the horses!!. Traction will be your first "new" problem.
Where can I get this stuff how much?
Pricing will vary but I would call Mike at Ramchargers, Joe at Precision Turbo and Engine or Jack Cotton. Drop Ken Mosher a note if looking into TurboLink. All are great guys and all have helped me immensely over the years.
The above was prepared by Mile High GN.

After this is done you can go with a non-stock chip and turn up the boost.

The trasher is a good chip and only cost $25.

PS – You will also need a open air K & N filter.