NHRA Rules for 135 MPH

[geno]

I went to the track last nite and went 10.01@ 137.8 MPH (Staying in the 10.s because im not legal for 9,s)with a bad 60ft 1.5 Anyways i didnt know that all you need to be legal for running over 135 mph is to wear the right gear and has nothing to do with the cage or NHRA licence. You can run 10.0 at 149 mph all you want with the right coat,pants,gloves ect
You need a chute to run 150mph
I found out because i got a talking to and was asked for my NHRA license and was verry close to 9,s I learned a little more about playing the NHRA game.. I ran two 10.0.s and have got good at it LOL

 

[86brick]

Geno, why don't you want to be 9 second legal??

You're a rebel

 

[geno]

It just seems a waste to have a 9sec legal car when my car would really only run a best of 9.8 I believe it takes the same to run 9.99 to 7.50 and i have a all out S2 for my 38 Chev Coupe i want to do that with. Besides this really is a street car that my wife does drive sometimes.Ive added weight to the car to slow it down(Stereo,full exhaust,street tires no skinnys ect. The money is the other thing (doctors exam,cage,window net,ect) My block is a 2 bolt main and i dont want to push it past its limits and this is a good way for me to make dam sure i dont. You know how us turbo guys are if that felt good with 23# just think what 30# would feel like LOL

 

[86brick]

Originally posted by geno
It just seems a waste to have a 9sec legal car when my car would really only run a best of 9.8 I believe it takes the same to run 9.99 to 7.50 and i have a all out S2 for my 38 Chev Coupe i want to do that with. Besides this really is a street car that my wife does drive sometimes.Ive added weight to the car to slow it down(Stereo,full exhaust,street tires no skinnys ect. The money is the other thing (doctors exam,cage,window net,ect) My block is a 2 bolt main and i dont want to push it past its limits and this is a good way for me to make dam sure i dont. You know how us turbo guys are if that felt good with 23# just think what 30# would feel like LOL

You make some good points and I agree with just about all of them.... I think all I would ever want is a 10 second legal car because once you want 9's the NHRA really hits you hard with all the mods you must perform to become legal.... Must be nice to be able to drive to the track run 10.00s and drive it home.... You are da man!

 

[The Radius Kid]

Originally posted by geno

You need a chute to run 150mph

So when are you getting a chute,or is this a matter of NHRA trying to stick it up your "chute"?

 

[gnx7]

I thought the rules stated 10.0 or 135mph...... It did at least in my old NHRA rulebook from a couple years back.

Geno.... you need to post some pics or a link to the '38 you are building. What is the current state it is in?

Are you doing twin turbos on the S2 or a large single?

Inquiring minds want to know.... .

-GNX7

 

[Scott231]

Originally posted by geno
I went to the track last nite and went 10.01@ 137.8 MPH (Staying in the 10.s because im not legal for 9,s)with a bad 60ft 1.5

Hmm, I must be behind the times. Did you put a 109 blocked motor back in this car?

 

[Chuck Leeper]

10 flat and/or 135??

GNX7 said:
I thought the rules stated 10.0 or 135mph...... It did at least in my old NHRA rulebook from a couple years back.

You are correct. Section 4 of the ET rules states that:
rollcage mandatory in cars running 10.99 [6.99 1/8] or quicker, or any car exceeding 135mph.
It goes on to say:
Full bodied cars, with unaltered firewall, floor and body [from firewall rearward,wheeltubs permitted], running between 10.00 and 10.99 rollbar permitted.

It makes no exception for the unaltered floor, etc w/ regard to the MPH limit.
Therefore, if the car goes 10.00, but exceeds the 135 MPH limit, a cage is required. Less than 135, and the roll bar is ok.

 

[geno]

Re: Re: NHRA Rules for 135 MPH

Originally posted by Scott231
Hmm, I must be behind the times. Did you put a 109 blocked motor back in this car?

Im running a S1 block now and have thought about building another 109 though


GNX7
My 38 is a pile-o-parts right now but i do have everything for the car. The old hat style frame (16 ga steel) needs to be replaced.
I have all the parts for a S2 with a billet crank and S2 heads,Hogans intake,ATR single turbo headers

 

[geno]

You are right on about the 135mph needs a cage. I dont have a rule book and was told by a tec guy that all i needed to be legal to go that fast was the right pants,coat ect... He is wrong and you do need a cage for those speeds above 134mph I just got off the phone with a chassis cert guy and he says i wont get away with it at his track.... Ive been getting away with it at his track for 3 yrs Hehe

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by 86brick
Must be nice to be able to drive to the track run 10.00s and drive it home.... You are da man!

Even nicer driving a 9-second car to the track...

 

[geno]

The best ive done is a 530 mile drive and 10.14 @ 17 mpg at a 1700ft track
I would have got in the 9,s if it didnt rain all weekend and only got 3 runs I still consider it a 9sec street car because its run 9,s but i just didnt drive it to the track.

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by geno
The best ive done is a 530 mile drive and 10.14 @ 17 mpg at a 1700ft track
I would have got in the 9,s if it didnt rain all weekend and only got 3 runs I still consider it a 9sec street car because its run 9,s but i just didnt drive it to the track.

Opposite of me, I drive it as little as possible on the street. I don't consider my car a “9-seocnd streetcar” but a “9-second racecar that I drive on the street”.

Something tells me I'd firmly plant and recede the seats into the heads and cause all kinds of valve train problems driving a distance anywhere near that. What kind of springs to you have. I don't think mine with a maximum nose pressure of more than 600 psi that my springs would last too long. My poor Jesel rockers would just fall off!

 

[geno]

Im running a flat tappet 218/220 cam with 120# closed
People said when i built this motor to put a roller in it but im not into taking the valve covers off all the time to baby sit the springs Ect Thats were i drew the line for my street car

 

[86brick]

Originally posted by geno
Im running a flat tappet 218/220 cam with 120# closed
People said when i built this motor to put a roller in it but im not into taking the valve covers off all the time to baby sit the springs Ect Thats were i drew the line for my street car

What about a hyd roller in a S2/S1 "street" motor??

I've heard the solid rollers aren't good for guys that like to drive on the street much, but I wouldn't think there would be anything wrong with using a hyd roller in a S2/S1 for a street driven motor

I know a hyd roller isn't cheap (about $1K) compared to a flat tappet, but it would seem like a good idea........

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by geno
Im running a flat tappet 218/220 cam with 120# closed
People said when i built this motor to put a roller in it but im not into taking the valve covers off all the time to baby sit the springs Ect Thats were i drew the line for my street car

I think you made a good choice. One of these days I'll get a trailer, have to get a tow vehicle too, there in lies the problem.... You're going where you want to go so don't change a thing.

 

[86brick]

Originally posted by TurboDiverArt
I think you made a good choice. One of these days I'll get a trailer, have to get a tow vehicle too, there in lies the problem.... You're going where you want to go so don't change a thing.

Yeah but then you'll be called the trailer queen TR of NJ

 

[geno]

Originally posted by 86brick
What about a hyd roller in a S2/S1 "street" motor??

I've heard the solid rollers aren't good for guys that like to drive on the street much, but I wouldn't think there would be anything wrong with using a hyd roller in a S2/S1 for a street driven motor

I know a hyd roller isn't cheap (about $1K) compared to a flat tappet, but it would seem like a good idea........

My buddy just took his motor apart that had 5000 miles on it with a billet hyd roller cam and it was junk Thats not to say he didnt have something wrong from the get go I know i did think about one in my car but then went with what ive had good luck with before

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by 86brick
Yeah but then you'll be called the trailer queen TR of NJ

That would be OK with me. Only reason I drive the car on the street is to get to the track. My other GN is actually more fun to drive on the street. At least with that car, if I nail it, it sticks and I don't always need to worry that something is going to break!

 

[TurboDiverArt]

Originally posted by geno
My buddy just took his motor apart that had 5000 miles on it with a billet hyd roller cam and it was junk Thats not to say he didnt have something wrong from the get go I know i did think about one in my car but then went with what ive had good luck with before

If you need more or want to do it at a lower boost then you're next step might be a roller. Hyd roller is going to be a lot easier on the valve train and still give you faster ramp speeds and higher lift. I still say stick with your cam, heck, you can still up to a 224/224 which I believe would have a little more punch than the one you have now. Besides, if you upgraded to a bigger stick I’d have to up my boost a little because you’d move into second place in the Northwest chapter listing and that would only widen the gap between 3rd place and 4th place…