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I Set The Two Step For 4500 For 15psi For 10.0 Class
And 5000 Rpm For 20psi 9.50 Class.
I Dont Need To Kill The Launch On 10.0 And Slower.
I Figure More Life On The Drive Train That Way.
 
I Set The Two Step For 4500 For 15psi For 10.0 Class
And 5000 Rpm For 20psi 9.50 Class.
I Dont Need To Kill The Launch On 10.0 And Slower.
I Figure More Life On The Drive Train That Way.

You've got me curious. What stall T/C are you using? 0 boost/no nitrous.
What kind of 60 foot are you seeing?
Excellent information! Thanks!
 
Donnie,

you just brought up another interesting point that i have not yet learned enought about to understand fully. Torque converters. currently i have a 3200 non lock up in the car, so does that mean when i am staging, when i start loading the car, 3200rpm will be where i will have 0 boost? i know this sounds stupid, a guy who doesnt even know what his car does, but i have an explaination: i recently purcahsed the car in the late fall and when i brought it back, i couldnt drive it one bit because it snowed outside. so no time to learn with the car.
 
Don You Know Stall Is A Direct Componet Of Hp.
What I Can Tell You Is I Use A Variable Stall Th400
Built By Lonnie Diers. I Use A Billet 10 Inch
Converter By Bradco. The Trans Has A 2.10
Low Gear Set In It.
Sixty Ft
15psi 1.42
20psi 1.36
 
Donnie I Just Checked My Last Log It Started Recording At
2750 Rpm The Boost Was 1.1 Psi 51% Tps
 
Ahh. So you're doing the cavitation thing with the T/C. Got it. Hard to get a true stall figure with that going on.

If you're ever curious about what your stall is, this is what you do. Set the transbrake. Transbrakes are so excellent for checking stall. Floor the pedal and note the rpm attained before any real amount of boost starts to build. You will have to do this without the nitrous and without the T/C charge shut down (variable stall feature of the trans).

Now if your vsc is tied into the use of the transbrake, then you won't be able to come up with a meaningful stall figure and I understand.
 
Donnie I Just Checked My Last Log It Started Recording At
2750 Rpm The Boost Was 1.1 Psi 51% Tps

Very cool. I like the setup.

Sounds like you have an excellent model for others to follow or at least build from. Thanks again for sharing.
 
Thats No Nos At 2750 The Vari Stall Comes On With The Brake
And Shuts Off With 5psi Detected By The Fast
 
Donnie,

you just brought up another interesting point that i have not yet learned enought about to understand fully. Torque converters. currently i have a 3200 non lock up in the car, so does that mean when i am staging, when i start loading the car, 3200rpm will be where i will have 0 boost? i know this sounds stupid, a guy who doesnt even know what his car does, but i have an explaination: i recently purcahsed the car in the late fall and when i brought it back, i couldnt drive it one bit because it snowed outside. so no time to learn with the car.

If you don't have a transbrake, you may roll through the foot brake before you can get a real stall reading.

I pretty much explained the stall procedure in one of the previous posts. As long as the brakes hold (mash the emergency brake too) you should get a true stall figure. If your stall really is 3200 at 0 boost, you might have quite a monster on your hands when the nitrous hits.
 
Thats No Nos At 2750 The Vari Stall Comes On With The Brake
And Shuts Off With 5psi Detected By The Fast

Oh my gosh!:eek: Stop it! It just keeps getting better! Beautiful setup.

You are officially the TB.com nitrous to spool, poster child!

I am impressed. I love that system.
 
cdsttype. What kind of rpm drops are you seeing at the shift points with the 2.1 gearset and your T/C setup?
 
If you read it, it says it has a fully adjustable boost switch.
 
Zex states it shuts off nitrous once the turbo has spooled-up? How does the system determine when to shut down the N20 flow? Different sized and designed turbos will reach optimum spool up at a different rate. Can someone elaborate?

Look at your AUX outputs on the XFI.. you can use them to do anything you want with a nitrous system. ;)
 
yeah the kit seems like a good idea. i am jsut a little skeptical of the brain box.

where would you recommend i place the nitrous nozzle. Julio says to place to methanol nozzles 6 inchs from the throttle body, so would this be a good idea? also since the alky will be firing a alittle ehile nitrous is on, will there be any wrong places to put the nozzle?

thanks

what does everyone think about edelbrock solenoids. i like how big they are compared to the other brands.
 
yeah the kit seems like a good idea. i am jsut a little skeptical of the brain box.

where would you recommend i place the nitrous nozzle. Julio says to place to methanol nozzles 6 inchs from the throttle body, so would this be a good idea? also since the alky will be firing a alittle ehile nitrous is on, will there be any wrong places to put the nozzle?

thanks

what does everyone think about edelbrock solenoids. i like how big they are compared to the other brands.

I think the edelbrock nozzles are one of the best out there. I followed their discharging design idea when I made my own.

Where to place your nitrous nozzle in relation to the methanol nozzles is a tough question. You may tend to get a bit of overcooling of the intake charge which could promote fuel drop out from the nitrous/fuel part of the mix. To make up for that possibility, start out by running the nitrous system richer than your calculations recommend and then start doing some good old fashioned plug checking to look for distribution problems. It may be hard to get a plug check to tell you anything about the nitrous system that's on for maybe only 1 second, but I'd still go through the motions of that test to see if it can tell you anything.

This is one of the main reasons I designed my nitrous system to be port injected. Any possibility of fuel drop out causing a lean condition or mixture distribution problems are completely eliminated. Puts me in a much better frame of mind.
 
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