No history on my new Grand National. Follow my journey.

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I never got that idea. Why cut the radiator hose when you can just pull out the idiot light sender and but the gage sender in there!? Also, my advice would be to lose the mechanical oil pressure gage and put in an electric. (Ask me why, LOL)

Good luck with the car!

because the idiot light is a good thing to have just in case you don't constantly look at the temp gauge.. the bright red light will get your attention right away, a needle slowly creeping up towards hot might not..
 
That much corrosion looks like it was submerged in salt water.

every car that gets driven in weather up here in MN has an engine compartment that looks like that.. it actually looks like a pretty clean engine compartment to me..
 
because the idiot light is a good thing to have just in case you don't constantly look at the temp gauge.. the bright red light will get your attention right away, a needle slowly creeping up towards hot might not..

IMHO, idiot lights were to be used by, well... you get the gist!
 
Got a little more investigating done in this beautiful 30 degree weather. Driverside floor pan is history. I can see the pavement. T-top car.
 
Update. Cutting out the rusted floor pan. What a job.:p I will be pulling the engine next week. Can't get to the floor pan up front. Going to keep the shortblock and build off it.
 
I would like to see exterior pics, you know, we all know what they look like but still would be nice. How about the story? Where do it come from, stuff like that.
 
Go the throttlebody powdered coated as well as the throttle cable brackets. I did them myself so I stil haven't had to spend any money.
throttlebody.jpg
 
Already had the aluminum vacuum block so didn't spend any money there either.;)
 
One valve cover. Already had the aluminum filler so I'm still at no cost. The engine is almost ready to pull so the cost are coming soon. The goal is to keep the cost at minimum.
valvecoverpowder.jpg
 
I'd pressure wash that whole engine compartment, change the fluids and start putting it back to stock so you can undo the pervious owner's 'whatever he was thinking' and level the playing field. No sense pulling the engine if you don't need to if it's just external connections and adjustments needed. If the engine sounds OK with no ticks and knocks, it probably is.
 
One valve cover. Already had the aluminum filler so I'm still at no cost. The engine is almost ready to pull so the cost are coming soon. The goal is to keep the cost at minimum.View attachment 187008

Nice job on coating your parts...keep up the good work...
 
TtopGN.jpg
Went through the engine. Turns out it was a SG1 engine. Everything inside the engine was in perfect shape. The engine is off to Chris Hogeland for cylinder hone, deck clean up, new bearings, new rings, and everything checked. I will run a stock short block. I have set the goal for 7.50's in the 1/8 mile. I have begun stripping the body to bear metal. GBody parts is sending the new T-top header panel and new A pillars. They will be here tomorrow. The body has been in great shape. No rust.
 
Pulled the dash. Why do people have to tap into the factory wiring harness? What a mess!o_O The statement of mostly "original car" is slowly starting to become "kinda orignal". This is hurdle that you must expect when buying a 27 year old car.
 
to keep the cost minimum you should be picking up stuff from the parts for sale section;)
 
Fast4ward I just happen to have a parts car,:D It sure does make things easier having it for parts and to see where everything is spposed to be. :p
 
Got the wiring harness back to factory specs. I had to replace 5 different plugs where they had been cut or tapped into. The parts car was the most valuable tool I had. I cut the old plugs out and replaced them with the plugs out of the parts car. Seeing them in the proper place in the other car was important. Without seeing a good harness and having access to plugs this job would have been impossible. It was a huge mess.
 
New sheet metal. The Mig Welder got a workout today. Just needs a little body filler to smooth it out.
ttopfix.jpg
 
They don't call 'em "rattle tops" for no reason!

Looking good. Keep at it and keep us in the loop!

Thanks!
 
ttopfix2.jpg
About done. I've got the body line almost perfect. Just needs a little glazing putty then it to the other side.
 
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