No Power off the line

[bigballsbilly]

Just want to update because I hate it when people start threads and don't follow up.

I did confirm that the cat that was on the car was gutted. But i have now installed Pypes 2 1/2" dual system with the race pro mufflers with a test pipe. Welded up a crack on the driver side header. Installed new Comp Cam 981-12 valve springs. Installed Tin Man CAI for stock MAF.

Fuel pump, hotwire kit and adjustable FPR are all on the way and should be installed next week. I also have an AEM wideband gauge that needs to be installed.

The result is that once underway the car has a lot more power, but is still a dog off the line. I think it may be torque converter related as the converter on my car has a "6" stamped on it. However under WOT I am only seeing about 13 lbs of boost. Not sure why.

 

[GNRick]

Did you get the pcv leak fixed? If your fuel pump isn't keeping up that might cause ( or go hand in hand with) the limited amount of boost at WOT. I would install the new pump ASAP and not beat on the car until then.

 

[bigballsbilly]

The PCV valve has been temporarily blocked with an expansion plug. I have a new Grommet I would like to try this week. Once my fuel system has been upgraded, I will report back with where I'm at.

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[Dwilc47]

I am cutting 2.0 in the 60ft at the track. The sucker would have no power off the line at 4 pounds of boost. It would sorta bog and spool slowly to 15 pounds and then hit hard to 26 pounds the rest of the track. I had gotten a few things switched out and added a few things and heading back soon. Phil (pdzz) who I bring it too says I needed a high stall and will probably be getting once soon. The most dramatic change was putting stock headers on over the hooker ones that were on there. I got the same valve springs, gbody rear brake kit, plugs and wires, wideband and fuel pressure gauge. Hoping this helps me cut under a 2.0 60 ft but I would say I need a converter. I still can't boost more than 5 pounds before it starts pushing through. I can definitely say it hits hard and feels stronger than before, the spool up is quick also.

 

[GNONYX]

Many threads claimed that Flowmaster are bad for TR engine, flow restriction, try replacement and see what results you gain.

 

[bigballsbilly]

With everything I've done the car has a lot more power now at speed, but still a dog off the line. I've already established I have the wrong TC. So I'm ready to start thinking about which TC to get. My upgrades are listed in my signature. I don't intend to make any more performance mods but want the car to be a nice street performer, it'll probably never see the track. What would you guys recommend? I was thinking about a 2800 RPM stall.

 

[blackazz]

Put it this way, I went with a ptc 10"2800 stall fr dusty B. Now I need a neck brace.

 

[626gn]

Dave Husek also makes a nice converter for the street.

 

[bigballsbilly]

How much would a PTC or Husek TC set me back?

Also, is it agreed a 2800 RPM stall is good for a GN with my specs?

 

[John Larkin]

Yes. With a stock turbo, 3000+ spools too fast if you can believe it.

With a higher stall converter comes more trans fluid heating. Get a stacked plate trans cooler also to run in series with the one in the radiator.

 

[626gn]

How much would a PTC or Husek TC set me back?

Also, is it agreed a 2800 RPM stall is good for a GN with my specs?

My Husek 3021 LU cost me $500 + shipping a few months ago. I believe he has 3 versions of this converter in LU with different price ranges all the way up to a billet cover. All depends on your needs.

A stock turbo with a 2800 should rip the tires off. Your actual stall # will be dependent on your build.

 

[bigballsbilly]

Ok so after speaking to Dave Hudak I ordered his TC. He recommended the 3021 so that I would have room to grow.

While I have the driveshaft and trans out I am going to change the rear pinion seal, trans output shaft seal and the drivshaft u joints. I dont need any bullet proof but might as well upgrade the u joints. Any recommendations?

 

[John Larkin]

I have Spicer 5-375X I think. If you go to a supplier they can look it up by car application. It is real close to that number.

 

[bigballsbilly]

John, I just want to make sure what I get is better than oe.

 

[John Larkin]

They are bulletproof, no zerks in them.

 

[bigballsbilly]

Ok sold. Only problem is I cant find that number on a search. Is that the right number?

 

[John Larkin]

5795x - I was off a little bit.

 

[bigballsbilly]

Ah, that makes sense. I talked to a driveshaft shop a little bit ago and they're gonna balance it and install the u joints for $130. I thought that was a good deal.

 

[John Larkin]

Just make sure those snap rings are installed on the end caps and mount inside the rearend yoke. The driveshaft can spit out under power. I had my driveshaft balanced and that was about what I paid also, yours may be just a little cheaper. Congrats!

 

[bigballsbilly]

New TC going in tomorrow. If thr new trans mount shows up tomorrow it'll be on the road. Hopefully this solves the no power off the line issue.