OH NO - not another Turbo Recommendation request

tlturbo

Tag - WUTSA V8
Joined
May 27, 2001
Sorry about starting another Turbo recommendation thread but that's what happens when there are so many very knowledgable people on here.

I have read all the posts on here and the Turbo chart from Precision but still know there are answers I can't figure out. So sorry for asking but any recommendations are greatly appreciated.

Been a lomg time since I upgraded a turbo. Pretty easy 10 years ago with lots less choices and variations.
I want to bring the car to more modern tech specs and it all started when my old dual nozzel SCM alky took a dump.
I talked to Julio and ordered a new kit and when I told him my combo, he laughed and said my turbo belonged in a museum and that one of the newer ones will perform a lot better even if not bigger. Great guy to talk to. (Can't find what a TA 53 compares to in the new stuff though)

Most car specs are in sig. It was very close to MeanChicken's older engine and it is used for street playing like his. This is a street car and I basically want it quick up to about 100 mph. I don't want to run on the ragged edge or run outrageous boost. I think that with my combo, 20-22 on the street would be great (although traction limited). I have a TA 53 and a 3000-3200 9-11 lockup converter and just put 295 55 15 M/T drag radials on it. It has a 10-12 year old Joe Lubrant alky chip and for some reason spools up extremely fast. (Should I get a new Turbo Tweak chip also?) At about 15 mph when the boost comes on, it would blow the old 275 60 Nitto drag radials away but in one thread I read, the poster said supposedly the newer turbos spool more smoothly and don't hit so hard all at once? I often though some spool lag would be good for me. HA

So I'm not sure what size turbo (leaning toward 6262 DBB) but have no idea about housing size. I remember buying a supposedly trick housing years ago for this TA 53 that was bigger than a .63 but spooled faster than the bigger one?? Like I said, been a LONG TIME AGO.

Not really concerned about stock appearing, car gets driven under 1000 miles a year (has 84K on it). I have a modded ECM for the 55 lb injectors but would consider going to bigger injectors if recommended. Billet main caps and APR bolts and head studs.

Also understand the DBB requires less stall converter so mine would be good? This needs to be extremely streetble but I live near Boca and there are Lambo, Ferraries, AMG's and Z06 vettes all over that need spanking.

MANY thanks for any recommendations and if you need more info, PLEASE ask.
 
The 53 has a small 58mm compressor and a 69 trim turbine (which is more or less the old 11 blade version of the new 62 turbine). More compressor will help. I would do a 6262 for sure. The bb would be nice, but not needed. I would even consider the 6265bb, but at low boost, I doubt there would be a dfference from the 6262 other than lag.
 
6262 all the way. SP cover to eliminate surge during part throttle. Use the journal bearing and you can put $500 of that $700 you save towards an anti-roll bar, tires, or something else more useful.
 
I agree with a 6262 journal. I could also replace the compressor wheel in yours with a gt35r conpressor fairly cheap if it needs nothing else and it will support about 150hp more. I could also switch it to a custom forged milled compressor that weighs about 20g less than a gt35r compressor and will support about 200hp more than your current t04e 60 compressor but its an expensive compressir wheel. The 69 turbine in your turbo is a good easily obtainable piece and will support enough power to run 130+mph. I updated a 5869 to the Gt35r in a friends car as a temporary solution to his other turbo that shit the bed and he might just keep it since it spools fast and easily covers his 10.70 performance goal. The billet wheel I'm offering will cover you to 10.40 at least. I could also supply a Garrett ex housing if you wanted a quicker spoolup.
 
I agree with a 6262 journal. I could also replace the compressor wheel in yours with a gt35r conpressor fairly cheap if it needs nothing else and it will support about 150hp more. I could also switch it to a custom forged milled compressor that weighs about 20g less than a gt35r compressor and will support about 200hp more than your current t04e 60 compressor but its an expensive compressir wheel. The 69 turbine in your turbo is a good easily obtainable piece and will support enough power to run 130+mph. I updated a 5869 to the Gt35r in a friends car as a temporary solution to his other turbo that shit the bed and he might just keep it since it spools fast and easily covers his 10.70 performance goal. The billet wheel I'm offering will cover you to 10.40 at least. I could also supply a Garrett ex housing if you wanted a quicker spoolup.

Brian: Would the GT35R work with a JB 6265? Mine is starting to smoke on start up and it's been beat on for over 4-5 years and it's either rebuild it or get a JB6266.

Still plan to see how far the 6265 will go but it's tongue will probably be hanging out by the end of the year.

Thanks.

Phil Engle
 
Brian: Would the GT35R work with a JB 6265? Mine is starting to smoke on start up and it's been beat on for over 4-5 years and it's either rebuild it or get a JB6266.

Still plan to see how far the 6265 will go but it's tongue will probably be hanging out by the end of the year.

Thanks.

Phil Engle
The 62 cea is a bigger wheel than the gt35r and will support more power. Its easy enough to just freshen the 6265 and update the balancing if the wheels havent hit.
 
Let Bison build you a custom turbo with a Garret ex. housing. I'm going to get him to fix one for my turbo soon.
 
Terry,

On your car I would go with the 6262 journal bearing with the port shroud cover and .63AR. It spools really quick and pulls like a freight train at 22-23lbs. It will work really well with what you already have. Actually, you should not change what is working well for you and has been proven just for the sake of change. Upgrade the Alky Kit but if the Lubrant chip works well keep it.
I had put a billet wheel 6262 jb on my GN quite a while now and that car as heavy as it is has never pulled so hard. It is way faster than my Gold car was. Call me when you can and I'll tell you about some of the street action with that turbo. Plus I need to see how those new rear tires look, I heard they are awesome on your car.

Regards,
Shev
 
I would get the alky kit working first then a new chip for the 55's. Once that is done you might be surprised how good the car feels.
 
Thanks everyone.

So you all think the DBB isn't worth the money

That was kind of the plan. I sold my .50 cal BMG so finally have some cash to replace the alky system.

Now I need to order a new TT chip and see how it runs. Then consider the 6262. Julio got me thinking about a new turbo.
HEY SHEV - good to hear from you. I started working again in the firearms dept at Gander Mtn. Tried to call Dave yesterday to warn him I ordered a new alky kit and make arrangements to get it installed. I'll give you a call.
 
The 62 cea is a bigger wheel than the gt35r and will support more power. Its easy enough to just freshen the 6265 and update the balancing if the wheels havent hit.

Thanks for the reply.

I read the post very quickly and thought it meant that the GT35R wheel would gain 150 HP over the 6262 and not the TA53 wheel he currently has. "Greed for Speed" always has me looking for a way to make more power.:D

Turbo guys here in OKC are pretty proud of their services. Cost to freshen the 6265 will be about 2/3's of a new 6266.
 
Quik Six said:
Thanks for the reply.

I read the post very quickly and thought it meant that the GT35R wheel would gain 150 HP over the 6262 and not the TA53 wheel he currently has. "Greed for Speed" always has me looking for a way to make more power.:D

Turbo guys here in OKC are pretty proud of their services. Cost to freshen the 6265 will be about 2/3's of a new 6266.
I can source a GT35r replacement that will flow more than a 62 turbine can flow. Most just jump to a 67 though. I have a lightweight forged milled 67mm design that can move a lot of air. Large or small shaft. I'm still waiting to see what one will do in a large compressor cover with a large turbine. Should be 85-90lbs/min. The 6265 is the same as any other Garrett t3/t4 based design. With a new bearing housing I've turned them around for $250 including balancing.
 
I can source a GT35r replacement that will flow more than a 62 turbine can flow. Most just jump to a 67 though. I have a lightweight forged milled 67mm design that can move a lot of air. Large or small shaft. I'm still waiting to see what one will do in a large compressor cover with a large turbine. Should be 85-90lbs/min. The 6265 is the same as any other Garrett t3/t4 based design. With a new bearing housing I've turned them around for $250 including balancing.

Thanks for the information. It would pretty neat to have a custom turbo spec'd and assembled by you.
 
Now you're thinking right.:)

Brian has been patiently answering questions for me for several years but I did not know that he would respec and rebuild a turbo. I'm sure he will be hearing from me after I reach my goals with JB 6265 so I may get a custom turbo from Santa.:)

How fast is a Fast Farmer?
 
Brian has been patiently answering questions for me for several years but I did not know that he would respec and rebuild a turbo. I'm sure he will be hearing from me after I reach my goals with JB 6265 so I may get a custom turbo from Santa.:)

How fast is a Fast Farmer?
Oh, faster than some, and not as fast as others.:cool:
 
WOW so much info - really appreciate the education.
Couple more questions -
Most have said get the journal bearing. Reasons why not the DBB? I hear it lowers stall required, spools quicker and pulls harder. Cost not worth it for a street car? Does it require water plumbing for the cooling?
Also, what is a ported shroud cover? Is this the housing with all the holes around the inlet? Purpose - something about surging? I have never experienced this with the TA 53 but DO have the sneezing when letting off throttle. Should I get it?
Should I consider going back to an unmodded ECM with bigger than 55's? When I went to 55's you had to get the ECM modded for any large injectors. Or just get bigger injectors designed for the modded ECM?
It seems everyone talks about Precision Turbos and I see they have new wheels. Does this make them better that other brands? What about Turbonetics stuff or Limit? I think this 53 came from John Craig.
Chip technology - Is a new TT alky chip a lot better than a 10 year old Lubrant alky chip? I know the TT has some adjustability in it.
Thanks again - really appreciate all the remarks.
 
Bison, Sounds like nice stuff your doing, what turbine wheel are you using for these 62 size units?
Mike
 
I hear it lowers stall required, spools quicker and pulls harder. Cost not worth it for a street car? Does it require water plumbing for the cooling?
Yes, you don't need as high a stall conv, which is nice for a primarily street driven car. Some of the higher stall convertors can have a slushy feel when putting around. Like a 3200 compared to a 2800. A lower stall is supposed to allow for slightly higher trap speed too, or that's how Art Carr explained it to me. I run a 62 BB with a 2800 stall and like the street manners and have no issues with lag. Also, I was told that the plumbing isn't required for proper operation, but I plumbed mine anyway. FYI Turbonetics has a 1 year warranty
http://www.turboneticsinc.com/warranty_policy
 
Mike Licht said:
Bison, Sounds like nice stuff your doing, what turbine wheel are you using for these 62 size units?
Mike

I don't currently have a 62 compressor i use. I've used the 76p, old 69 and t350, and 65f1 with the old cast gt35r and the new forged milled variants available which are a little under 62mm. It would be a better match for most guys on here with a 62 turbine since that turbine is good to somewhere around 70lbs/min. About 10lbs/min more than 95% will ever be lucky to see. I'm still waiting for feedback on those in max effort applications. It takes higher pressure ratios and or more rpm to see where they can go. A 25psi small 210 hyd roller with iron heads wont even run those old dinosaur cast wheels out. The various 67 forged milled wheels have so much potential that they rarely get used to even 80% of their potential or ever will get used that much by anyone on this forum. I don't have a good consistent cheap source for quality turbines. The only way to get a really cheap source is to outsource them. Seems like just about everyone here wants to have an 800hp stock block that runs one 93/alky and doesnt break. They often have a few of the parts needed to get it done but are missing a few key things and can't pull it all together. One area they aren't lacking is turbos though.
 
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