Oil Adapter Block

[aminga]

Why wouldn't this work.

Like almost everyone running a Aftermarket oil pressure gauge I have a T in place of the old sender and the idiot light switch and my sender on either side of the T. It occurred to me while stripping the stuff off the block that all one really needed to do was drill and tap the factory block opposite the idiot light sender and plug the gauge sender into the other side. Fewer fittings = fewer opportunities for leaks.

Why wouldn't it work.

 

[charlief1]

You lost me Al. There's only one oil passage in the block and the hole is the closest location. You could drill and tap into the cover maybe but that would weaken the cover and make a very bad place for a leak.

 

[aminga]

You lost me Al. There's only one oil passage in the block and the hole is the closest location. You could drill and tap into the cover maybe but that would weaken the cover and make a very bad place for a leak.

On the intercooled car's there's a brass block from the factory screwed into the block near the oil pump. It feeds the Turbo and the idiot sender. Why can't I just drill and tap the factory brass block on the bottom and put my gauge sender there.

 

[turbo nasty]

Better Yet get the Turbo saver and use the port the used to feed oil to teh turbo for your sender.

 

[charlief1]

On the intercooled car's there's a brass block from the factory screwed into the block near the oil pump. It feeds the Turbo and the idiot sender. Why can't I just drill and tap the factory brass block on the bottom and put my gauge sender there.

That makes a little more sense Al. You'll need an NPT tap to make it work. If you're running a remote filter you could also tap the filter housing to get a reading.:smile:

 

[LOT]

You can

Why wouldn't this work.

Like almost everyone running a Aftermarket oil pressure gauge I have a T in place of the old sender and the idiot light switch and my sender on either side of the T. It occurred to me while stripping the stuff off the block that all one really needed to do was drill and tap the factory block opposite the idiot light sender and plug the gauge sender into the other side. Fewer fittings = fewer opportunities for leaks.

Why wouldn't it work.

Most people wouldn't go to the trouble of removing the brass block. IMO 1/8 in. NPT would be best.

 

[Dynalow00]

Brass block

I did this same thing on mine after trying to add a sender. I cobbled a bunch of brass adapters together to work, but finally realized that drilling the factory brass block was the best solution. I may have pics if you need, but it seems like someone else had done this as well. Try searching for 'oil pressure sending' or something like that..I know I found some threads on it when I was doing the same thing...Hope this helps. -Steve

 

[WIKEDV6]

.