Oil Pan Gaskets & RMSs.
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Okay. So by sealer you mean RTV correct?
What are these tabs you speak of... or are they really obvious when I pull the part out of the box?
As for the front seal, I am taking the cover off for a timing chain upgrade anywho. So why not change out the seal while I am there, right?
I need more thoughts on this before the call goes in.
Thanks guys...
Originally posted by Mr. T
Okay. So by sealer you mean RTV correct?
What are these tabs you speak of... or are they really obvious when I pull the part out of the box?
Yep, two strips. Yep, RTV.
As for the front seal, I am taking the cover off for a timing chain upgrade anywho. So why not change out the seal while I am there, right?
Yep, there will be metal retainer holding the rope seal in on the backside of the cover. Pop it off, smooth out the indentions that hold the retainer and replace with a rubber seal. peice of cake.
Okay. So by sealer you mean RTV correct?
What are these tabs you speak of... or are they really obvious when I pull the part out of the box?
Yep, two strips. Yep, RTV.
As for the front seal, I am taking the cover off for a timing chain upgrade anywho. So why not change out the seal while I am there, right?
Yep, there will be metal retainer holding the rope seal in on the backside of the cover. Pop it off, smooth out the indentions that hold the retainer and replace with a rubber seal. peice of cake.
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- Jul 20, 2001
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The tabs are the side seals ( that insert in to the rear main cap). Most don't use them, but I have used them in conjuction with an anearobic sealant. I think most people don't use them b/c they're kind of awkward to work with. I have used the ones with the pins and the ones without. On the ones without pins, a GM tech told me to insert the seals into the cap and use a vice to seat the seal (don't use a bunch of crushing vice force, just enuf to push the seal flat into the cat), then install your main cap. On the seals with the pins, follow the instructions provided with the main cap. The anearobic sealant application: on the block corner about 1/4 of an inch from each side of the side seal (use just a small dot) and on the mating face of the main cap (lightly smear on the bottom of cthe cap, but don't let it hit the side seal). The anaerobic sealant will set in the absense of air. There is a cure time for the sealant and if your in a rush, there is a catalyst to speed the cure process up. But, if your on a budget, don't use the side seal, b/c 2/10 of an aounce of anaerobic sealant is $6. When I went to GM to purchase the sealant, of course GM only had the 2 ounce unit for $18
. On my engine rebuild, I first used the rope seal and the rope seal leaked , but the side seal did not. After installing a neopreme seal (felpro), I recheck for leaks (using dye) and no problems. Just my 0.02
. On my engine rebuild, I first used the rope seal and the rope seal leaked , but the side seal did not. After installing a neopreme seal (felpro), I recheck for leaks (using dye) and no problems. Just my 0.02
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- May 28, 2001
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SEALZ
I use the cork one piece gaskets on the pan w/ a LIGHT coat of petroleum proof "smackmasm" on both sides. I then tie the gasket in place on the pan w/ dental floss. Wax'd does best!!
Once the pan's in place and the bolts are started,NOT TITE, the floss is cut and pulled out. DO NOT pull the floss too tite when tying !! It WILL cut the gasket!! Ask me how I know!!
I use the neoprene rear and ft seals. I offset the rear seal halves about 1/8" so the joint surfaces are not in line w/ the main cap joint surface. The seals get a TOUCH of sealer on the ends of each seal where they come together.
I then put a LIGHT coat of silicone, AKA "smackmasm", on the faces of the main cap, paying particular attn to the corners. NOTE that the corners of the cap are bevelled and are a good spot for a leak, especially at 30psi boost!!
DO NOT forget to put some lube on the sealing surfaces when installing. A dry seal can be pulled by the rotating contact surface on the crank and get burned and fail soon after.!!
I have used the "swell up" side seals, [the ones that swell up when immersed in oil], and have also used the rubber ones w/ the drive pins and also filled the slot w/ sealer. If you use the sealer method, BE REAL SURE the air pockets are removed w/ a wet [water to prevent the silicone from sticking to the wire]wire.
They all worked well, EXCEPT the first time when I drove the pins into the wrong side of the seal!!!
RTFD!!!
As for the ft cover, I've used the rear entry rubber seal and had the cover bored for the seal to go in from the ft. [An old Ruggles trik] That way, you can replace the seal w/out removing the cover.
BTW, just redid a pan gasket on a customer car.. Seems he had tried about 3 of the blu silicone gaskets and had distorted the pan so bad it leaked like a sieve! He then took the pan off and beat the "torque limit" dimples down flat and used so much silicone that the pump screen was plugged 50% shut..
Back under my rock
I use the cork one piece gaskets on the pan w/ a LIGHT coat of petroleum proof "smackmasm" on both sides. I then tie the gasket in place on the pan w/ dental floss. Wax'd does best!!
Once the pan's in place and the bolts are started,NOT TITE, the floss is cut and pulled out. DO NOT pull the floss too tite when tying !! It WILL cut the gasket!! Ask me how I know!!
I use the neoprene rear and ft seals. I offset the rear seal halves about 1/8" so the joint surfaces are not in line w/ the main cap joint surface. The seals get a TOUCH of sealer on the ends of each seal where they come together.
I then put a LIGHT coat of silicone, AKA "smackmasm", on the faces of the main cap, paying particular attn to the corners. NOTE that the corners of the cap are bevelled and are a good spot for a leak, especially at 30psi boost!!
DO NOT forget to put some lube on the sealing surfaces when installing. A dry seal can be pulled by the rotating contact surface on the crank and get burned and fail soon after.!!
I have used the "swell up" side seals, [the ones that swell up when immersed in oil], and have also used the rubber ones w/ the drive pins and also filled the slot w/ sealer. If you use the sealer method, BE REAL SURE the air pockets are removed w/ a wet [water to prevent the silicone from sticking to the wire]wire.
They all worked well, EXCEPT the first time when I drove the pins into the wrong side of the seal!!! RTFD!!!As for the ft cover, I've used the rear entry rubber seal and had the cover bored for the seal to go in from the ft. [An old Ruggles trik] That way, you can replace the seal w/out removing the cover.
BTW, just redid a pan gasket on a customer car.. Seems he had tried about 3 of the blu silicone gaskets and had distorted the pan so bad it leaked like a sieve! He then took the pan off and beat the "torque limit" dimples down flat and used so much silicone that the pump screen was plugged 50% shut..
Back under my rock
Thanks Chuck. I like the cork idea (the machine work is a no-no... since I am almost tapped and won't see more than 22#s). I have had moderate suck-cess with a one piece OP gasket on my SS. (somthing about trimming the timing chain cover doesn't sit well with those one piece front pan seal areas) I got used to using the sillycone.
I have found that contact cement works best in sticking a cork gasket to anything.
On a related note: I ordered a rubber front cover gasket for the swap... is this a bad thing?!
I have found that contact cement works best in sticking a cork gasket to anything.
On a related note: I ordered a rubber front cover gasket for the swap... is this a bad thing?!
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- May 28, 2001
- Messages
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Ft gasket??
Mike, I always use the Fel-pro ft gasket kit. It comes w/ a composite, paper like, gasket, [blue in color] and a rubber seal.
All the Buick pan gaskets I've ever seen were 1 piece.
I've no experience w/ a rubber ft cover gasket.
Mike, I always use the Fel-pro ft gasket kit. It comes w/ a composite, paper like, gasket, [blue in color] and a rubber seal.
All the Buick pan gaskets I've ever seen were 1 piece.
I've no experience w/ a rubber ft cover gasket.
I used the Blue felpro front cover gasket and had to exacto around the oil passages to ensure they wouldn't be a restriction. After I got it all bolted up, I found the factory GM front cover gasket in my gasket drawer. It needs no "modifications" and would fit perfectly. It's thinner than the felpro so both mating surfaces will need to be perfectly clean and flat, but it's a nicer gasket.
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