Oil Pressure Gauge Hookup

klmnla

Watson LA
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Will this T setup work? This way I can keep the stock idiot light and my new sending unit.
 

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Here's mine on how to hook up both a mechanical on the right and electric on the left. The radiator hose clears it just fine since the final angle of the oil block ended up being more downward than shown here.

4h2z7q2
 
I agree. what you want is a fitting that has the stock sender mounted straight up, and the add-on pointing out. That's the setup I have anyway.

You just have to re arrange your fittings.
 
In case one fails you have a back up. I just ordered a new gauage from Jegs. I think it is reading low at hwy speeds.
If the idiot light comes on you've already had a bad day. Can you maybe borrow a known good gauge to verify pressure at speed? What readings are you getting? What does it read at idle too?
 
here is a picture provided to me wen i was doing my install and i also wanted to keep the idiot light sender too.... my set up is exactly like this one works great
 

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Thought about seeing if whoever made that sender also makes one with a dual output? When doing my VDO gauge, I found a sender that had a 0 to 180 Ohm output for a 0 to 80 PSI gauge, as well as a second output that switched at 8 PSI.
 
Oil Pressure Guage Hookup

I agreed by having the original oil pressure switch as well as having another oil pressure guage. As you can see the pipe work, I also added a Tee fitting for the pre-lube oil system I installed. The purpose of the pre-lube system; once you turn the ignition on, the valve on top of the accumulator tank opens sending oil throughout the engines oil ports. You can also see the increase in oil pressure on the oil pressure guage.
 

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I drilled the bottom of the feed block Opposite the factory switch and used a set of right angle fittings.
 
Why would you need an idiot light with a gauge?

Because the idiot light oil pressure switch is also a secondary path for the fuel pump voltage. If the fuel pump relay were to fail the oil pressure switch will close at about 4psi and apply voltage to the fuel pump allowing the car to start.


Matt
 
If the idiot light comes on you've already had a bad day. Can you maybe borrow a known good gauge to verify pressure at speed? What readings are you getting? What does it read at idle too?
I had another thread for this problem, but essentially what I did was send my oil filter to a well known engine building. He cut it open and said there was no metal in the oil. As for oil pressure, it is 75 at cold start up, 10-15 at hot idle, but 39ish on the hwy at 2200 rpm. It used to be 55 on hwy. It goes to 55 at WOT. I ordered a new electric gauge, should be here in a few days.
 
After thinking about how to fit all the adapters / connectors into the small space on the stock location I decided to go the easy route. I installed my sender inline on the oil cooler line between the adapter and the cooler and mounted it to the inner finder. Works great and no clearance issues.
 
Why would you need an idiot light with a gauge?

As RIMatt indicated: The stock oil pressure switch also has contacts as a back up to the fuel pump relay. Worth keeping as far as I am concerned.

Besides the idiot might catch your eye before the gage depending on where it is mounted.
 
I see a lot of guys using teflon tape on the fittings. I work in the gas industry where leaks are VERY bad and I prefer a paste with Teflon, it seals well and the Teflon acts as a lubricant that allows the fittings to be tightened with less effort. The teflon tape can end up in your oiling system, and if it were to block the turbo oil feed, expensive repairs will be in order.

Also, never use Teflon tape on flair fittings like the turbo oil feed line.
 
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