Ok Im a bone head! reversed neg/positive

Mine somewhat did the same as for the fuel pump not running until you cranked over the engine several times. I never found the problem until I yanked the engine out this fall for a rebuild.

I found the o-ring that goes in-between the oil filter adapter was torn. It never leaked, but it makes sense that it never kept suction because of the o-ring being torn, hence, after cranking on the engine, it generated oil pressure again telling the oil pressure sensor, oil pressure was present, so go ahead and let the fuel pump turn on.

Steve

Steve
 
I just noticed the security light is flashing when I get in the car?

Maybe this is my problem. I have never had a GN with a factory security system.

How do I shut this off?

Den
 
"I found the o-ring that goes in-between the oil filter adapter was torn. It never leaked, but it makes sense that it never kept suction because of the o-ring being torn, hence, after cranking on the engine, it generated oil pressure again telling the oil pressure sensor, oil pressure was present, so go ahead and let the fuel pump turn on."

The bypass sw is not a failsafe. It serves only to allow engine start if the fuel pump relay is messed up. Once the sw sees about 4psi, it'll close, turning on the pump.
It will not shut the engine down, if oil psi drops.
If you had to get the oil psi up, B4 the engine would start, something else wrong.
 
I just noticed the security light is flashing when I get in the car?

Maybe this is my problem. I have never had a GN with a factory security system.

How do I shut this off?

Den

When you get out of the car & lock it normal does the security light stay on as well? If so its the small black box under the dash thats up there pretty good. I forget the name & part number but I had to replace mine many years ago.
 
Over and over it would start right up and then stall.

After this I replaced the cam sensor cap are verified 25 deg ATC. This is the same time I hooked up the battery charger backwards.

After this the car would not fire at all. I pulled a plug wire and put a spare plug in and turned the car over, did not see any spark.

1 car does have a scan master and I have turbo link hooked up as well. No codes on turbo link. TPS show close to correct settings and responds to throttle movement

2. See above

3 I checked for fuel pressure with key on, would not pressure up antil you cranked it, once running it had good pressure. My car is the past seemed to have fuel pressure when key is on? I even tried hot wiring the wire to the pump (the wire on the drivers side behind the AC), made no differnce car still stalled. At this point if dissreguarded FP as the problem.

4 yes

Since it won't run at all now, I would have to agree with the fusible links at the starter possibly being cooked from the charger debacle - yes they are a PITA to get to. You say there is no spark - did you ground the plug? It won't spark with just the plug in a wire. Do all the accessories inside the car work like radio, dash lights, etc? If not, it's the fusible links at the starter post.

You should have fuel pressure with the key ON before you start to crank it - you said above that you don't have any pressure until you start cranking it - that is more than likely why it would start and then die. Sounds like you have issues with your fuel pump somewhere - possibly a bad pump if the car has been sitting for a long time. Did you "hotwire" it from the + battery post to the pump itself?

Another possibility is that you didn't set the cam sensor correctly when you replaced it. The car will NOT start without a cam signal - it has to be running before it can go into limp mode. Are you sure you set it @ 25deg with #1 on the compression stroke and not 180deg out instead?

Hope this helps and good luck.
 
Ok just one note from personal experience here. I attempted to use a booster at the body shop on my car and had it set on 24V start. Thought I had fried the ECM. Turns out it was the MAF. Try unplugging it if it runs get a new one.
 
If you hook up the charger backwards you are basically forward biasing the output diodes from the charger thus putting a short across the battery. The battery can damage the charger. You won't reverse the bus a bit.

There is most likely some sort of thermal fuse on the output of the charger that will open if this event happens. Now if the battery is 100% dead with no charge you can fry the battery and reverse the bus.
 
I got the car last week for cheap on a divorce sale. It was sitting out at -30. So towed to to my shop and let it thaw out. The car would start and barely run for a couple seconds and then stall. When it did fire it started right up and then stalled. Over and over it would start right up and then stall.



Have you replaced the MAF sensor with a known good one. I let my GN sit in storage for about 6 months. It was running fine when I shut it down before storage. When I went to start it after storing it, it acted exactly the way you've described yours did before the battery charger incident. I replaced the MAF and all was good again. I'm not sure why the MAF went bad while sitting, but it did anyway. Just another possibility

Have you replaced the fusible link at the starter yet or at least checked it ?

George
 
The flashing security light means its NOT ON, when the light stays SOLID, that means the alarm is set. You turn it on with the electric lock switch, and off with the key in the door.

The oil pressure will not affect spark

When you turn the key on, does the check engine light come on? If no, its the orange wire right at the battery, about 4 inches down IS THE FUSIBLE LINK.

I do not think the fusible link is down at the starter, those go to the fans on the drivers side.

Lets go back to the original problem, runs and dies.... Does it have any gas in it? You can get air pressure, not fuel pressure.
Check to see if the coil and module is plugged in, if you think its a eprom issue, then just take the chip out. It will still run, same with the maf sensor.

I would put some good gas in it, or remove some old gas and check to see what it looks like.
Have you pulled a plug and checked to see if your getting unburned fuel , plugs should be wet as water if its not sparking. If they are dry you have other issues.

Try swapping the coil and module, ecm easy parts to help diagnose.
BW
 
Thanks for all the advice guys and Happy New year.

1) When the car did run, it did hold good fuel pressure while running till it died.

2) Pulled my new Coil pack of my Parked turbo t and swapped it to the GN, the GN had the original coil pack and knew it was no good from the ghetty up. Tested the original coil pack with my caspers tester and yes it was gone.

3) MAF? Ill try unpluggin it or put another on

4) Spark yes I grounded the plug out and no spark

5) Did I put the cam sensor in correct on compression stroke.. Of Course is did, dont we always do it right the 1st time? haha.. Ill double check this, you never know, I have got this off before, would not be the last time.

6) Security light is Flashing

7) All acccsories, lights, dash, etc work just fine

8) Orange wire from Battery has juice past the fusable link

9) Installed new Crank sensor, no change.

10) Tried Stock ship no change

11) Plug to coil pack does have power to the 1st pin closest to the front of the car

12) Drained all Fuel and put 5 gal of 110 race fuel I had from this summer.

13) Shouted out some colorfull words $%@$! and then went home to pound a couple beers.

What the hell, its Dark and -45, not a whole lot more to do anyhow, got 4 months to figure it out!

Den
 
I'LL be in alaska the second week of June if all goes well. If you dont have it figured out by then, i'll swing by:D put the beer outside to stay cool:cool: sounds like the cam sensor is off. Have somebody crank the car while you turn the sensor one way or the other until it fires. Works for me. Sounds like everything else is ok.
 
I have tried up plugging the cam sensor to see if it will start in limp mode.
Is the cam sensor reconnected? The computer needs the cam sensor signal to start firing the injectors.
 
If you hook up the charger backwards you are basically forward biasing the output diodes from the charger thus putting a short across the battery. The battery can damage the charger. You won't reverse the bus a bit.

There is most likely some sort of thermal fuse on the output of the charger that will open if this event happens. Now if the battery is 100% dead with no charge you can fry the battery and reverse the bus.

+1

The battery would have taken 99.99% of the boo boo.
 
I'LL be in alaska the second week of June if all goes well. If you dont have it figured out by then, i'll swing by:D put the beer outside to stay cool:cool: sounds like the cam sensor is off. Have somebody crank the car while you turn the sensor one way or the other until it fires. Works for me. Sounds like everything else is ok.


Well I would trust I can figure it out by then. But do drop by to visit if your in the Fairbanks area. We can go for a roll in one of the cars.

We will need to put the beer in the fridge by then, it will be 90 degrees out then and 24 hr sunlight.

Den
 
Got it!

You wont believe this...

The non spark issue was due to the new cam sensor cap being no good, that is two in a row now that were bad. Put old stock one back on and she fired right up and quit.

Aminga: your post nailed it on the on the non running issue, it was the MAF, unhooked it and it ran. Put a spare MAF on and now she will run.

Thanks to all you for the help. Still have to get Her dialed in now.

Dennis
 
Well I would trust I can figure it out by then. But do drop by to visit if your in the Fairbanks area. We can go for a roll in one of the cars.

We will need to put the beer in the fridge by then, it will be 90 degrees out then and 24 hr sunlight.

Den

cool you got your car running!! you'll sleep better tonight! My sister is in Kenai, kind of far from you? but if I make it up that way towards Fairbanks, I want to roll in the 70 Chevelle convertable!! I would forget all about the gn:D
 
You wont believe this...

Aminga: your post nailed it on the on the non running issue, it was the MAF, unhooked it and it ran. Put a spare MAF on and now she will run.

Dennis

Even a blind hog finds an acorn every now and then.
 
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