ok so i determinred it to be a bottom end knock... What to do next

[JerrysGN]

ok so this past weekend i checked to verify it wasnt a valvetrain problem (pulled the covers, check the rockers, springs, push rods, and retainers) I checked the T/C bolts, and the Flywheel for cracks. Lastly i drained the oil and had nothing in it, aswell as checked the magnetic bolt for the oil pan and nothing on that (minor grit, equal to an overnight thickness of dust on a car that mimimal) nothing abnormal in side the filter either. Pulled off the Serp belt and can spin every pulley except the crank one freely. Crank Pulley is tight.

whats my next step... I was going to pull the pan today but figured i would post here to get ideas before ripping into it.

If its a rod or Main bearing can i get away with changing it if its not scored? or do i still need to machine the crank, its already 10/10

thanks

 

[JerrysGN]

Also not mentioned above, when the motor was running it was 45 cruising and 14 or so stopped at idle (i had to drive about a mile after i heard the noise, idled smooth as a kitten but once it hit 1k rpms sounded like i had a hammer inside a piston

 

[Red Regal T]

Sounds like a spun rod bearing. Usually will be quiet at idle but as you increase the rpm you'll hear it knocking. If that's the case, I'm sure the crank will need to be cut and the engine rebuilt. The nut inside the pan that retains the drain plug will prevent metal from coming out with the oil and and as far as the magnet, bearing material isn't magnetic. You can pull the pan to be sure.

 

[6SENSE]

You can undo a plug wire one at a time and see if the noise quiets down or seems to go away by lessening the load on each respective cylinder. This can guide you towards which particular cylinder has the issue if its a rod knock.