TURBOELKY
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 27, 2005
- Messages
- 3,474
Your Keyway broke because your cam is too big for a 1.75” rockers and the valves hit the pistons, and sheered off the key. Yes 2.02” valves have been ran on TA heads.
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SignUp Now!Your Keyway broke because your cam is too big for a 1.75” rockers and the valves hit the pistons, and sheered off the key.
You have taken it to the track?I really don’t think that is the cause. I had Dynoed it and raced it and put maybe 4-500 miles on it before this happened. Anyway I will double check my exhaust valve clearance when I install the new ones just to be sure
No track runs . I just ran the #1 guy out here on the street and unfortunately he got me but by less then a car . So when I come back I should be the fastest on our lil list we have in out in our valley.You have taken it to the track?
No updates on your progress along the way?
Put an lsx in that will guarantee your the fastest lol
Your Keyway broke because your cam is too big for a 1.75” rockers and the valves hit the pistons, and sheered off the key. Yes 2.02” valves have been ran on TA heads.
I used the 3/16” cookie cutter and chucked my billet cam in the mill, and did exactly that. I was not fond of the small amount of key way, but if I’m not mistaken it’s only there to sync the stack up in order, the bolt is what keeps them in place. Other possibility is the bolt holding the stack up in place was left loose, or not torqued properly with loctite. This engine Chris has was built by a shop if I remember correctly. Has had quite the array of issues since it was put into commission.I don't think that's the case. I have had the same luck years past doing the exact same damage as well. Cam lift isn't the issue. I have done that with a hydr roller and a solid roller using 1.75 T&D rockers. We have zero tolerance engines, doesn't matter if the key way snaps and the chain is intact, it will always smash the valves. If you look closely, there isn't much holding it. All that key way and just the tip is holding the gear set in place. You can notch your key slot deeper near the gear and make a custom key way that is rectangular instead of rounded, or notch the cam and the gear for another key way so it is really strong using 2 key ways instead of one.
I used the 3/16” cookie cutter and chucked my billet cam in the mill, and did exactly that. I was not fond of the small amount of key way, but if I’m not mistaken it’s only there to sync the stack up in order, the bolt is what keeps them in place. Other possibility is the bolt holding the stack up in place was left loose, or not torqued properly with loctite. This engine Chris has was built by a shop if I remember correctly. Has had quite the array of issues since it was put into commission.
and also the key does a lot more then just to sync up the stack it has to transfer the rotating forces from the chain/gears to the cam itself and deal with the spring pressures . The bolt is actually controlling my cam for and aft thrust and keep everything sandwiched like the oil pump/cam sensor drive
And my short block was assembled by jms racing the very first time I with those pistons a 1/8” in the hole so I didn’t even fire it before I had to take it all apart to get the correct pistons in