On the side if the road
- Thread starter dragrazor
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On the relay there's two small wires. Those energize unit and cause the two large wires to pass current.
If you hear the relay clicking when it's supposed to engage the pump, the the relay is getting the signal it needs.
If you jump out the two large wires, the pump should run. If not, the problem is the pump or the wiring between the relay socket and the pump.
and FYI, the little strap that goes from tank to frame doesn't do any good unless you go up front and run wire from the engine block to the frame.
If you hear the relay clicking when it's supposed to engage the pump, the the relay is getting the signal it needs.
If you jump out the two large wires, the pump should run. If not, the problem is the pump or the wiring between the relay socket and the pump.
and FYI, the little strap that goes from tank to frame doesn't do any good unless you go up front and run wire from the engine block to the frame.
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if the hotwire kit is still connected as it was ...and you jumped to the prime wire... and it works...
it means the factory relay for the fuel pump (on the passenger fender) is no good
could be the relay . try another or with a volt/ohm meter check the wires to relay
-- check the ground wire to that relay (on the back of the passenger head)
--check the power to relay coil (rlys fuse)
--check signal for that relay from ecm (check for 2 seconds of power on key on) if no signal wire is open (bad connect at ecm )or the ecm is bad
it means the factory relay for the fuel pump (on the passenger fender) is no good
could be the relay . try another or with a volt/ohm meter check the wires to relay
-- check the ground wire to that relay (on the back of the passenger head)
--check the power to relay coil (rlys fuse)
--check signal for that relay from ecm (check for 2 seconds of power on key on) if no signal wire is open (bad connect at ecm )or the ecm is bad
Earl, when i jump it using the prime wire, the pump runs. If i turn the key forward without using the prime wire,the pump does not prime. Also i noticed that when i use the prime wire, the racetronix relay for the hotwire kit has to be moved around or twisted a little for the pump to work. In other words, there seems to be a connection problem inside the relay. If i have my wife move the key forward while i twist the relay around, the pump does not turn on. Again, this is done with the prime wire not connected. If i use the prime wire and twist the relay around, the pump turns on.
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it needs about 10 seconds off to reset and then it should command the prime on key on
from your post there is a wiring issue at the hotwire relay connection at the tank that needs to b fixed
just plug the pump harness back into the factory harness (unplug the hotwire relay jumper setup) and see if it goes to prime key on
from your post there is a wiring issue at the hotwire relay connection at the tank that needs to b fixed
just plug the pump harness back into the factory harness (unplug the hotwire relay jumper setup) and see if it goes to prime key on
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so you are back to a bad relay on passenger fender
or the wiring at tank and not the hotwire wiring is bad
dont touch anything back by tank .... connect the prime wire underhood and see if it runs pump
if it does fix the stock fuel relay on fender
if it doesnt run then the tank harness or rear body harness has issues
or the wiring at tank and not the hotwire wiring is bad
dont touch anything back by tank .... connect the prime wire underhood and see if it runs pump
if it does fix the stock fuel relay on fender
if it doesnt run then the tank harness or rear body harness has issues
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it should start ....if the pump is running and you have pressure
and relays do go bad , and not usually from any user input
and relays do go bad , and not usually from any user input
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the car wont shut off with the prime wire connected until you disconnect it
salvageV6
Daily Driver
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Make sure you didn't blow the underhood light fuse if that's where you are getting power from?
I'd use a 30A fused jumper to the battery +12 post and 12-16 gauge wire to that connector.
Pump should run continuously and start the car.
Relay can go bad as well as the ECM driver transistor that commands it to prime and run.
Monitoring fuel pressure while trying to start the car will help also.
Actron made a decent rail mounted gauge with a foot of hose for around $40 that should be viewable with the hood open while cranking, available in most parts houses.
I'd use a 30A fused jumper to the battery +12 post and 12-16 gauge wire to that connector.
Pump should run continuously and start the car.
Relay can go bad as well as the ECM driver transistor that commands it to prime and run.
Monitoring fuel pressure while trying to start the car will help also.
Actron made a decent rail mounted gauge with a foot of hose for around $40 that should be viewable with the hood open while cranking, available in most parts houses.
Yeah, but it wont even start. I checked the connector at the back, the factory one that connects to the cables that go to the tank. I noticed that with the key forward, the middle one only lights up and has very faint power. When i connect the prime wire to the hood lamp, the left one lights up only with very good power. Any thoughts?
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middle one is for the fuel level
Pace, that connector that has the middle one for fuel level, shouldnt i also have power on another one, at least for a second or two to prime the pump with the key forward? I get nothing other than the middle one. Passenger side relay right?
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