Opinions on cooling problem possibly

So theoretically, if the temp continues to rise and the thermostat never kicks on at 185-195 and the water never circulates. Im looking at a bad thermostat as well. Im just trying to eliminate all obvious before i start shooting wires as suggested above
 
Yes the thermostat should open at 160-195 depending on what you have before the water will flow thru the radiator. I'm guessing you have multiple issues. You can take the t-stat out and put it I a pan of water on your stove to see if it opens properly. If I take one out I replace it, the only real value in testing on the stove is to verify that it was good or bad. In my opinion they are too cheap not to replace. I run a 160 and keep a spare. With a front mount I would put a 160 In it.


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Funny thing just happened. I went in the garage and cranked the car to see if I could get the fans to kick on at 185-195, but they never came on. I was monitoring the temp on the scanmaster and it went to 195, then dropped back to 177...then continued up until i shut it off.

This is a sign of a sticky thermostat. It isn't opening until it is past the opening temperature.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
drove mine this past weekend with the A/C on and it got to 209....I was watching it close. If I turn the A/C off it would go down to 190 to 195, I have a 160 in it and I have GN1 4 core rad with dual fans and a precision front mount. The car has a cam and GN1 heads on it as well as aftermarket headers and eagal crank and rods.

my old GN had a stock motor with a front mount and it would never get over 180 with the stock radiator. Same turbo but everything else was stock. Why does my new car want to run hatter than normal?
 
I have about the same combo except Alradco aluminum radiator and intrepid fans. With the AC on and very hot weather I see under 190 in traffic. The only other thing I have to help with cooling is a big tranny cooler. I know it makes a difference but I wouldn't expect that much. I also use RMI25. My converter is a Yank 2800 stall and I only lock it when I'm on the highway. I do have 28" tall tires in the back and that did drop my RPM but I don't think that helps mine run cooler. The Alradco radiator made a huge difference and the fans throw off a ton of heat. I had issues with my ac vent functions recently and had the car sitting in the driveway for a hour idling and it didn't go above 185. The fans move a lot of air.


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drove mine this past weekend with the A/C on and it got to 209....I was watching it close. If I turn the A/C off it would go down to 190 to 195, I have a 160 in it and I have GN1 4 core rad with dual fans and a precision front mount. The car has a cam and GN1 heads on it as well as aftermarket headers and eagal crank and rods.

my old GN had a stock motor with a front mount and it would never get over 180 with the stock radiator. Same turbo but everything else was stock. Why does my new car want to run hatter than normal?

Make sure that there is enough spark advance during cruising. Too low and it will cause a hot running engine. Running on the lean side can do the same thing, cause the engine to run hot.

Try adding 3 - 4° of SA in the RPM & LV8 areas that are used during cruise conditions. Be sure to check for knock after doing this.

RemoveBeforeFlight
 
they are, they come on around 167 to 170 and blow hard. They are the ones GN1 sales with the shroud. Radiator is new and a gn1 4 core, front mount is a precision front mount and is very thick. Car did not get over 209 sitting at the red light but it was 95 outside also. In the winter it runs 170 to 180 all the time. And our winter the temps are around 40-65 degrees. Just seems funny why it my stock one Grand national with the front mount would run cool and this one not. My old car had a chip in it that had a built in 2 step....that was so fun.
 
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