Parts for engine rebuild.

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The_Six

Active Member
Joined
Feb 28, 2009
Messages
1,309
Getting ready to rebuild my stock 109 engine and Im looking for a some parts. Nothing to wild just a good street car build. Looking for :

forged pistons +20 with wrist pins and rings

All ARP hardware head studs , Mian studs , rod bolts

Billet center main cap set

A complete roller cam kit I prefer the Morel lifters and a mild cam 206/206 or 206/210

Roller Rockers for stock heads

If you have any thing else I may need feel free to let me know what you have.
Thanks
 
If not going wild then why the roller rockers? They are not needed. I have ARP Hardware here as well as a #3 main cap. The pistons and rings can be gotten. The roller cam is a good idea, I custom order the cams when needed. I would suggest a 206/214 +/-. I've got that in my car and it runs well and has good engine vacuum.

Hope this helps you.
 
Head bolt reply...

I have a used, good condition ARP "pro series" head bolts (pt # 223-3703) : $60. OBO

also

1 set of stock rockers + shafts complete, ready to bolt on: $50 OBO


Claude. ;)
 
Thanks Guys, After reading here it sounded like the roller rockers made adjusting alot easier that and it may not be wild now but never now what I may do later. Same with the studs instead of bolts read it made things easier if you blow a head gasket.
 
Again, I have all the ARP Hardware here, if needed, and it's new. Same with the gaskets, cam, etc.

Hope this helps you.
 
esp what other products do u have with your combo with that cam 206/214.
Also what does it run
Iam looking for a good 10 sec combo
THANX JOE
 
Do you mean what comes in the roller cam kit or what should be combined with the roller cam to get the 10s your looking for? Let me know and I'll send you a PM.

Hope this helps you.
 
combo

What i meant was what combo with that cam would i need to go 10's.
THANX JOE
 
What i meant was what combo with that cam would i need to go 10's.
THANX JOE
Not knowing what is on the car/engine now, I will assume it's stock. You have 2 stages, one is for power, one is for strength.
Power: Heads/Cam/Intake, Turbo (TE60 or larger), FMIC, Proper Fuel System, Proper EMS (eng. mangmt. Sys), and 10" conv. The suspension, gauges, and other parts are also suggested, but that's another conversation.
Strength: That's your bottom end rebuild. Rods, pistons, girdle, and a good builder.

The roller cams are custom made and take about a week to get in. The most popular one we offer is in stock because it works very well and has good manners. It is a little larger than what I mentioned earlier and is very streetable. We had it in our TT car for a few years then went a little bigger this year.

Hope this helps you,
Merry Christmas & Happy New Year!
 
From what Ive read its easier to pull the motor if I blow a head gasket to replace it so would studs and AC be a problem if I expect to have to pull the motor if and when I do some thing dumb and blow a head gasket.
 
Kinda defeats the purpose of having studs though.

I dont understand that statement?? The allen head key goes in at max 1/4" Mabe less but I can measure mine to be sure. The nut goes down past that depth so how does that affect them?
 
From what Ive read its easier to pull the motor if I blow a head gasket to replace it so would studs and AC be a problem if I expect to have to pull the motor if and when I do some thing dumb and blow a head gasket.

If you blow a head gasket are you planning to pull motor or just the heads? Confused from your statement.
Pulling the motor makes no difference what you use & pulling heads in car no matter what you use you better have a strong back! Either way your looking 10 hours & blown headgaskets & antifreeze means inspect all bearings so IMO its better & easier to just pull the whole thing. I leave on turbo, alt etc & just remove a few needed items.
 
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