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Pictures of used roller cam shaft questions

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Toby_Goodmk

Test Fit officianto
Joined
Dec 9, 2011
Messages
1,851
I picked up this used camshaft and I am wondering about the wear on the lobes. Is there anyone out there can tell me what happened to this cam and if it is ok to run. Something tells me something was not right. I wanted to get a few peoples opinions before I contemplate a return.
 

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Don't use it!!! It looks like it had valve spring binding.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
It's also possible the cam was a little soft since it is a cast cam and not a billet shaft. I definitely wouldn't use it unless you want to best the guy that sold it to you. Lol.


Posted from the TurboBuick.Com mobile app
 
My opinion........run it. If it is an Austemper Comp Cam it'll be fine. If its an old hyd. Roller from Modern muscle toss it in the recycle bin yesterday. Where did it come from? Old cast hyd rollers were junk.
Date of manufacture is needed here.
 
It's a comp cam. It was purchased here but I'd rather not disclaim whom sold it. I have a pm into him but has not replied. Giving benefit of doubt you know. I'll send these same pics over to comp cam to see what they think as well. Here are a couple more taken with better camera
 

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If those marks are less than .001" Id probably run it. Could easily be cleaned up with a re-grind (even different similar lobes) as long as lobe separation wanted was the same as what's there.


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
That cam might be OK, but if the engine is a fresh rebuild and you have a few thousand $$$$ invested, I would never use that cam no matter what anyone advised me?
 
Thanks on the replies. First pictures will go to Kevin at comp, then the engine builder will decide if its ok to put into the engine he has to warranty
 
Nick, it is a brand new rebuild with fresh everything. I know the person I purchased it from here has best intentions, just wanted to get a few opinions before I make a return...I hate returns....however yes...thousands....and this is the 3rd go around in getting an engine correct. So, no more hindsight on this build.
 
Forgive me for saying so, but..... The 3rd go around, thousands invested, why would you even purchase a used part for it???
 
Forgive me for saying so, but..... The 3rd go around, thousands invested, why would you even purchase a used part for it???

I know, I know......Looking at the member I purchased it from thinking a good part at a good price, thought the person would be good to deal with. It was disclosed that there was only a couple thousand miles on the set.

600$ for a complete set with rollers, chain, gears, rods, cam button, shipping.
 
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Just for the record "new"doesn't mean "good" on anything. I had to straighten plenty of "new" cams. Plenty of "new" cranks that had a few big things to be addressed. New rods that needed work, new pistons with shitty wrist pins that needed replacing, a set of rings with two top compression rings. "new" set of valve springs from a vendor that includes an odd ball spring. Probably for a flat cam and was 50lbs less at the same height as others.


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
Just for the record "new"doesn't mean "good" on anything. I had to straighten plenty of "new" cams. Plenty of "new" cranks that had a few big things to be addressed. New rods that needed work, new pistons with shitty wrist pins that needed replacing, a set of rings with two top compression rings. "new" set of valve springs from a vendor that includes an odd ball spring. Probably for a flat cam and was 50lbs less at the same height as others.


BPE2013@hotmail.com
agreed, So Brian what would be your cam of choice? At this point I am thinking on the Weber Billet just because of the strength and their reputation.
 
agreed, So Brian what would be your cam of choice? At this point I am thinking on the Weber Billet just because of the strength and their reputation.

I'm in the same situation as you. Getting engine built and bought a couple parts used thinking I was saving a little and half the shit wasn't used. Parts weren't up to standards for the other new parts installed. I'm in this deep I might as well make it worth while. The couch is starting to get comfy too lol
 
I spent some time conversing with Kevin at comp, Mike at FT and the picture is getting clearer. It appears according to comp that the cam saw some abnormal wear, which who knows just how it happened. I do have a couple lifters that was sold in the kit which are more concerning to them versus the cam, so looks like a new fresh setup in the works. On a positive note, Mike claims that he is putting together something for Black Fri!!!
 
The cams I sell are the same that FT, Weber, DLS, and just about all other vendors sell. Billet is typically used with aggressive lobes that require a lot of spring or with solid lifters. I prefer the Danny Bee thrust assembly when using a billet cam. It has the least room for error though has to be checked. The only thing you will find different or maybe not between cams is the lobes selected and the lobe separation used. I can have any lobes you want ground and drop shipped to your front door. I can do a full analysis in 2* increments for an additional fee if you are interested. This will give you exact data if you are looking for it. The more spring the more aggressive the cam can be. The real aggressive ones need work done to receive the springs required and is not a "budget" setup. Most of the smaller hyd roller cams will all just about deliver the same potential as long as valve float doesn't occur. If I was building an 84-85 Id be building for peak power before 4800rpm because the intake manifold is a big limiting point. Open plenum volume is inadequate. I doubt the cam would be a limiting factor unless it had a lot of overlap or the springs were inadequate or improperly set up


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
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Thanks Brian. I believe I will be selecting the 210/215 that Mike recommended. The intake which I use is a champion ported intake. I have heard this intake greatly improves flow and is comparable to a stock 86/87. Is this what you think as well?
 
Thanks Brian. I believe I will be selecting the 210/215 that Mike recommended. The intake which I use is a champion ported intake. I have heard this intake greatly improves flow and is comparable to a stock 86/87. Is this what you think as well?
There is no easy way to get an 84-85 intake to work like an 86-87. Id build the entire engine to work between 4200 and 4600 rpm. Small hyd roller, tall gearing and the correct converter. The $$$ should be put toward the converter


BPE2013@hotmail.com
 
got it... Got a nice stall converter 3000 stall 9.5 from lonnie and 3:42 gear in the rear end. Can you describe your definition of small versus aggressive cam duration?

Sorry, but during this past engine catastrophe I have been taking matters into my own hands and learning alot.
 
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Clean it up, nitrate and heat treat and you are good to go.., otherwise dont USE it..
 
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