Please identify this material in my oil pan

[jamericaniSS]

Well at this point of the game i might has well fresh up the entire motor with new bearing, etc. The thing that concerns me is what to do with the block. I believe it is a virgin block.

1. Do i have to bore out the block

2. Can the block be cleaned up and all the stock parts reused. Is this a bad idea or no. I didnt notice any piston movement but i will let an expert confirm that.

At this point im kinda at a loss as where to go next specifically. I never take the car to the track. I wanted and still do want it to be a daily driver, just a daily driver with balls.

3. Do i really need a roller cam, .030, forged pistons to do all that

 

[Louie L.]

If you are on a budget and the motor did not burn or consume any oil I would hone the block at home re ring it. Have the pistons, crank and rods checked due to the trash that was flowing around. All can be re used and are plenty strong. The block can be cleaned up at home with lots of Dawn soap and hot water after the hone. Remove the oil gallery plugs so you can clean it properly.

I did the motor on my street car at home just like above. I have about 500.00 for the longblock including a having the stockers heads refurbished. I later added a roller in it for peace of mind. That was the most expensive part of the rebuild.

 

[VadersV6]

You wouldn’t pull a head to fix a coolant leak? Did you look at the pics, stock valve seal material..... blue?

Yeah, I would. But only if its leaking from a head gasket, and not leaking from the crossover channels in the intake manifold into the lifter galley. Thats usually where it happens. Its kind of half assed, but if you see a little coolant creeping out from the head gasket into the lifter galley when you pull the intake, if you dont see obvious head gasket corrosion, you can always retorque the heads (not loosen the bolts, just retorque to the final number). That can stop a coolant leak sometimes, but of course this is only if you really dont want to pull the heads.

As for cleaning the block, there are not many products better for completely cleaning a block or any mechanical hardware than carb cleaner. When I used to do custom intakes for the mustang guys, when I was done I would blow out with compressed air, flush with water and dishsoap, then spray 100% strength simple green on everything and flush it out. Then repeat. I would blow it dry and everything looked spotless and totally clean. When I would follow it up by spraying it with carb cleaner, a huge amount of super tiny particlulates would surface from nowhere, and it looked like everything was totally dirty again. There was so much of this embedded crap coming up, it looked like I had never washed it. There is alot of this stuff embedded on the surfaces of the block and all the other hardware, so after flushing with simple green, dry it off and repeat with carb cleaner. Then spray everything down liberally with WD-40 or Zep (the best) when the block has completely dried.