POR 15 paint anyone use this on their frame?

[salvageV6]

Works better on pure rust not exposed to the sun.

Don't ask me how I know this....

Metal etching stuff is needed for bare metal, read the destructions.

 

[burnout]

Magnacoat is the best. You can paint right over rust with it and you don't have to buy no primer or anyhing like that. The only bad is it's 70.00 dollars a gallon. They sent me this piece of metal (when I ordered my catolog) that they painted with a brush and it looked great I couldn't tell it was brushed on. So I bent the piece of metel in half and hit it with a hammer and it didn't even faze the painted surface.

Burnout

 

[mark b]

I'll show you parts of my car where I took it to bare metal, cleaned it with laquer thinner, used POR-15 metal etch (you HAVE to wash it off completely when done), then used POR-15 and then topcoat to protect from UV.

I can mail you the sheets of the paint

Interesting idea about using many coats to build the thickness, but I've lost my faith in this stuff. For a frame, I would use Eastwood's frame paint or another epoxy like frame paint.

I like to talk to the people that have street rods at car shows. It seems many of them gave up on POR-15 or did not choose it after other people's experience too.

On rough, rusty surfaces it still seems to work decently, but salvage brought up an interesting point. I wonder how far POR can rellay "penetrate" or convert the rust? If it can't get deep enough, the only hope is to encapsulate it from exposure to oxygen ...which is unlikely.

 

[iamjeff]

if it was me(and i was in this position about a month ago) i would just have the frame powdercoated(which i did). it is a little more expensive, but it is about as nice as you can get a frame. i sure wouldnt paint it for that much money.

mark b- did you use the marine clean that POR-15 sells? because the surface has to be extremely clean(with respect to oils and stuff like that), and the frame is an extremely dirty piece.

if i ever had to do a frame again, i would have it powdercoated. this stuff is extremely tuff, and looks extremely nice(like paint).

-jeff

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

well, right now i dont have the time to powder coat the frame, so i guess im going to try the GLOSS por 15 and if it flakes off during a pass, who cares right?

 

[iamjeff]

what do you mean time? it took about 2 hours to strip the frame once the body was off, and then about a week of sitting on my but waiting for the powdercoaters to do their thing. i could have had the whole thing done in about 2 weeks if i hadnt been so lazy and had to deal with school stuff.i put the body on tonight and that took from about 6:30-9:00. and it took about 4 hours to put the car on the rotisary. it took a full weekend to prep and shoot the bed liner. but im not telling you what to do. i just really like the shiney powdercoat. and im sure the POR 15 will look really good too. whatever you decide... good luck. and if you want then i can sen you a pic of my frame, cause geocities is retarted.

-jeff

 

[Quick6'n'-K.C.]

time as in i work 60 hours a week and then come home to work on the car, and the car already has a show paint on it, so i cant risk scratching the car-

im not going to bother taking the body off, and restore the car, ive got too many other projects that should be finished up in the next month
BW

 

[mark b]

> who cares right

Well, I understand your position completely and that's why myself and I'm sure others are pissed. If you find/make the time to do the job, you follow the procedure and you come away with nothing, you get pissed! I don't have time to do things once nevermind twice anymore.

If you don't have rusted areas, IMHO the safer way out is regular paint.

BTW - I have heard of people that successfully painted over the POR-15, even though they say you cannot. The trick is supposedly to spray regular paint over it before it's cured - while it's very slightly tacky.

 

[iamjeff]

the time thing is unfortunate, and i can understand not wanting to do a body off with a painted body. my paint needs to be redone, so that wasn a big issue. whatever you decide to do im sure it will turn out fine. and good luck.

-jeff

 

[1000MileStylez]

i sell the stuff at my work

just one thing when using it, por it out and close the can, dont let any air get into the paint for any amount of time or it looses strength. go to ace hardware, get a 60 cent empty paint can, and por the rest into it, cause the cans por-15 uses are crap and cant be sealed after open. the lids just bend. take my advice, this stuff is expensive at normal retail.

 

[T-top87GN]

Originally posted by 1000MileStylez
i sell the stuff at my work

just one thing when using it, por it out and close the can, dont let any air get into the paint for any amount of time or it looses strength. go to ace hardware, get a 60 cent empty paint can, and por the rest into it, cause the cans por-15 uses are crap and cant be sealed after open. the lids just bend. take my advice, this stuff is expensive at normal retail.

Normal retail huh? Does that mean you could hook us up with a nice discount?

 

[Morbid]

Did you look into Zero Rust as opposed to using POR-15?

Morbid

 

[T-top87GN]

Originally posted by Morbid
Did you look into Zero Rust as opposed to using POR-15?

Morbid

Well that stuff looks pretty dang cool! Any testimonials?

 

[Morbid]

This is my second time doing the body work and painting my Regal so I wanted to get some tips on where I went wrong.

AutoBody Store.com
is where I've been hangin out to get that information and that's where I got turned on to this stuff. Along with another of my favorite rust busters Picklex-20

In the forum over at autobodystore.com you will find that most folks gave POR-15 the heave and went with Zero-Rust.

Many of them are guys who do what your going to do, automotive restoration for a living.

I did the back half of the frame and undercarraige with this stuff (Picklex-20 followed by Zero-Rust) late last year and have no complaints. Will get the rest done hopefully by the end of the summer

Would love to do a "off the frame" job on my car, but I ain't got it like that.

Check out the forum over at the Autobody Store.com and ask a few questions. Len is the always hanging out there and runs the store and his own body shop. I like a person who uses what he sells for advice.

Cheers

Morbid