Power Logger knock counts vs. Caspers gauge

[jasjamz]

Attach the same file you load to view your run, but compress it to a zip file using the right click option on your mouse. Then we can see the same complete run. Download mine, nizip and open it in your powerlogger. I should have made that clear in my previous post ,sorry. Like this...

 

[Pronto]

I just have a file on my desktop to save the Powerlogger files in. The file would have to be uploaded to a hosting site and linked I suppose.

 

[jasjamz]

I just have a file on my desktop to save the Powerlogger files in. The file would have to be uploaded to a hosting site and linked I suppose.

Try to compress it to a zip. file. Then locate that file and attach it. I'm not an I.T. guy by far but once you work at it it becomes 2nd nature.

 

[darkred87T]

O.K. Here goes. If we can view this it's a boosted launch form 0 to about 40MPH and back to 0. Got 3 knock counts on the Power Logger and maybe a half a degree of KR.

 

[darkred87T]

O.k I finally got Power Logger to open when I click on the url off the thread but the Power Logger says "no file selected".

 

[jasjamz]

You were doing a lot with the throttle. It makes it hard to tell what caused the knock. Maybe others can chime in... Got any more stable runs? Make the boost connections also. It helps.

 

[darkred87T]

Here's a highway run at about half throttle. Keep in mind my knock gauge climbed right into the red on both of these.

 

[darkred87T]

I'll try to take it out later and get a WOT run recorded.

 

[ROYAL_6]

Sorry for taking the stoplight for a second.. but please correct me if im wrong.. ive read the thred.. and from my understanding, is that the Casper gauge reads / picks up the knock signal faster and before the ECM/ SM/ PL?? Am i correct, or did i just misunderstand the whole thred???

 

[darkred87T]

I have a couple of problems. My 02 is telling me it's rich and at the same time the ECM is seeing knock. Also my caspers gauge goes into the red upon any acceleration/boost.

 

[jasjamz]

How much boost are you running? Looked at the 2nd run and do not see any WOT runs from looking at the TPS readings. The chip does not go into the WOT setting at that voltage.
What is the fuel pressure with the vaccum off and plugged?
What is the alky knob set to?
Are you getting the proper turn-on lights, red 4-6 or so angreen at 10 psi?
Are all your basic setting within range of the TT specs.

 

[WS6]

You're not logging any boost, get that hooked up.

 

[darkred87T]

I have an LM-1 WB 02 and EGT that I haven't hooked up yet and I still have to hook up boost. I should get some better readings once I get all this hooked up.

I'm only running about 15PSI and alky is on and working with 100 octane/93 mix on a 98 Extender chip. The knock gauge starts going off at about 2-3 psi and it's usually in the red by 10PSI. It doesn't matter whether the alky is on or off. It does the same thing.

The car runs and has always run stupid rich for some reason. It acts like it has a big vacuum leak and it just loads with fuel at idle and cruising. After 3 years of replacing everything twice (sensors, ecms, numerous coil packs, modules, different MAFS, new heads, cam and intake), pulling my hair out searching for vacuum leaks and two engine rebuilds Iv'e given up on trying to get it to run right.

I guess I should try to get it running right first but it just doesn't seem like this is a true detonation problem.

 

[darkred87T]

The only thing I can think of is when I had the motor out the last time I noticed white marks (detonation?) on the cylinders 3 and 2 (middle). I have pictures. I figured the heads were warped. I know the right one was, had it redone. Maybe some cylinders aren't getting enough or intermittent fuel? My injector wiring harness doesn't look great so I got a new Caspers harness on the way.

I'm not trying to get diagnostic help on why it won't run right but I just want rule out true knock before I continue to drive it.

 

[darkred87T]

O.K I got the boost and WB02 hooked up.
The first one is a closed loop idle. Look normal?
The second is a quick launch:

 

[GNVenom]

When installing the knock gauge:

DO NOT USE scotchlocks to attach the signal wire to the ECM yellow/black wire.

The scotchlock will almost always cause the problem you see. It's about the connection, being less than perfect.

Skin the yellow/black wire back, and SOLDER a wire to it, then run it to the gauge. Also, use an accessory feed to supply the gauge, one that turns off during engine cranking. Be sure to use a good ground for the negative wire.

 

[darkred87T]

Thanks. Some good info. I have sme wiring to do on that side anyway so I'll solder it.

 

[WS6]

What's your FP at idle? Maybe I'm reading the logs differently but it look pig rich at idle with BL #'s at 117-118

What chip are you running?

 

[TurboDave]

What's your FP at idle? Maybe I'm reading the logs differently but it look pig rich at idle with BL #'s at 117-118

What chip are you running?

They're only 10 points low, I wouldn't exactly call that pig rich. The wideband is reporting good solid stoicheometric control, and the narrow band is working nicely.

 

[darkred87T]

It is running pig rich. I recalibrated my WBO2 last night becuase I couldn't beleive 14:1 at idle with the way it was running. Now I'm showing high 10 low 11 AF ration at idle and no change at WOT. All I can smell is raw gas. My BLM's are about 115-117 (which I thought should be in range) and my plugs are fouled.

I'm running a 98 Extender chip. It's programmed for my 60# injectors but you can program higher BLM values into it. Maybe I'll try that. Also, I'm going to change the plugs.