Powerlogger doesn't work in my car

[Lil Truck]

Log from July

 

[achalmersman]

Log from July

I'll look at that log when I get home to see if its all too familiar. I don't have my laptop with me. I could have had 100 logs by now but I quit because they all are the same.

 

[Lil Truck]

I'll look at that log when I get home to see if its all too familiar. I don't have my laptop with me. I could have had 100 logs by now but I quit because they all are the same.

ok, thanks!

 

[Eric Stage I]

ooof.... autolite 133's, which is a non-resistor plug. In general, non-resistor plugs are a no-no for computer controlled cars. Lots of RFI from those. I would put that on the list of things to try out (change to a resistor plug).
I know people have successfully run those, but it's something to try anyway.

 

[TurboBuRick]

ooof.... autolite 133's, which is a non-resistor plug. In general, non-resistor plugs are a no-no for computer controlled cars. Lots of RFI from those. I would put that on the list of things to try out (change to a resistor plug).
I know people have successfully run those, but it's something to try anyway.

Thats what I was thinking as well...

 

[achalmersman]

ooof.... autolite 133's, which is a non-resistor plug. In general, non-resistor plugs are a no-no for computer controlled cars. Lots of RFI from those. I would put that on the list of things to try out (change to a resistor plug).
I know people have successfully run those, but it's something to try anyway.

Ugh. Ok. I searched and searched and tried to come to a conclusion as to what I wanted to try and since it ran great I figured they were ok. Can you recommend a non-projected tip alternative? If I remember correctly your a fan of NGK right?

 

[TurboBuRick]

Log from July

When the volts drop to 0 it would appear something going on with main power.

A few things that come to mind:
Loose battery cables
Bad hardware on battery
Bad positive cable
Positive cable hitting header when engine torques from power


Rick

 

[trbojo]

ok. I just read through all this and didn't see one thing: I assume you have a laptop connected and running while all this is going on. if so, have you tried it without your laptop connected? possibly something in your laptop causing this??? I love how some people's first fix is to throw a 500-2000$ part at something to fix it. I had Dale Cherry tell me years ago " recommend old 25 year old computer technology be replaced with XFI " 2500$ PLUS dyno time! The problem ended up being engine mechanical issues!

 

[achalmersman]

ok. I just read through all this and didn't see one thing: I assume you have a laptop connected and running while all this is going on. if so, have you tried it without your laptop connected? possibly something in your laptop causing this??? I love how some people's first fix is to throw a 500-2000$ part at something to fix it. I had Dale Cherry tell me years ago " recommend old 25 year old computer technology be replaced with XFI " 2500$ PLUS dyno time! The problem ended up being engine mechanical issues!

Yes tried with no laptop. Same issues. I really have a very good suspicion that Eric is right about the plugs. I am unfamiliar when it comes to non-projected tip plugs or pretty much anything non-OE. Until I put these plugs in I had never even seen a non-projected tip plug. I had no idea they were non-resistor. My ignorance.

 

[Steve V]

Sounds like the same or very similar issue I have with one of mine. And maybe a customers as well. The TR6 won't fix it. I have it on my car still does it, I am not buying an xfi for this damn thing. But I did buy a new caspers harness when he ran the special. I will be watching this thread as well.......

 

[Steve V]

My plugs where NGK ur5's just switched to AR133's same issue no change.

 

[achalmersman]

When the volts drop to 0 it would appear something going on with main power.

A few things that come to mind:
Loose battery cables
Bad hardware on battery
Bad positive cable
Positive cable hitting header when engine torques from power


Rick

I have not seen his log yet, but judging by your response it probably looks just like mine. I guarantee you with all due respect all those suggestions are not the issue with my car at least. I have physically checked all connections. Measured while messing with harnesses, and performed loaded voltage drop tests on ECM power circuits with a headlight test fixture as well as chassis grounds, etc with a carbon pile load tester. Not to mention measuring power and ground in a high refresh mode (0.000250 seconds) and seen no issues. The only one I have not finished testing is the 12V switched ign

 

[Lil Truck]

When the volts drop to 0 it would appear something going on with main power.

A few things that come to mind:
Loose battery cables
Bad hardware on battery
Bad positive cable
Positive cable hitting header when engine torques from power


Rick

Thanks Rick,

I have checked all those and more, as you can see in the log the AFR is still operating so I would have to believe this is signal interruption from the PL ? The dash panel has no issues that I have seen when this happens.

May have to go back to the 5.7 and the WBO2 Only?

 

[Steve V]

ooof.... autolite 133's, which is a non-resistor plug. In general, non-resistor plugs are a no-no for computer controlled cars. Lots of RFI from those. I would put that on the list of things to try out (change to a resistor plug).
I know people have successfully run those, but it's something to try anyway.
Just saw this ...I am running AR 133's, whats the recommend resistor plug equivalent?

 

[TurboBob]

frames where everything goes to 0 (including the ignition volts) is the ecm rebooting. When the ecm reboots, it clears its internal memory, the PowerLogger is reading the ECM memory to gather its data.

its not going to be the voltage feed to the ecm.

Anyone with this issue in Michigan......?

Bob

 

[Lil Truck]

frames where everything goes to 0 (including the ignition volts) is the ecm rebooting. When the ecm reboots, it clears its internal memory, the PowerLogger is reading the ECM memory to gather its data.

its not going to be the voltage feed to the ecm.

Anyone with this issue in Michigan......?

Bob

Bob,

I have had this happen 3 times, the 6.1 chip never lost its program. If it did my programmable blocks would all go to 99 to operate without the WBO2, I had Eric program my chips to this default.

 

[achalmersman]

Log from July

Just reviewed your log and it is EXACTLY my problem. Notice how TPS, BAT Voltage, MAF, etc all drop to OV in frame 500 followed by engine RPM dropping to 0 a frame later? This is my exact issue to the T (plus or minus a frame time wise)

 

[achalmersman]

frames where everything goes to 0 (including the ignition volts) is the ecm rebooting. When the ecm reboots, it clears its internal memory, the PowerLogger is reading the ECM memory to gather its data.

its not going to be the voltage feed to the ecm.

Anyone with this issue in Michigan......?

Bob

No I live in DE. But if I'm not the only one having this issue and we can't figure it out I'll be a team player and drive all night to your location to spend the day with you. I'll even buy you lunch and / or dinner

 

[TurboBob]

I appreciate your enthusiasm, but thats pretty extreme. (thanks though....)

Hopefully we can recreate the symptom soon on a local car, and I can nail it down.

Whatever it takes, we will nail this down.

Bob

 

[TurboDave]

I don't know if it's been mentioned and I missed it but..... The one VERY important point that I make either while installing or helping to install PL's, is that, if you think you've got the connector cleaned off properly, you likely do not. Once it's clean, clean it some more. It's extremely extremely difficult to get the inner side done properly as most do it. To really get it cleaned one needs to further separate the to board halves. the ribbon cables act like a hinge.
Trust me this is not however a job for the faint of heart. But, my point is: clean clean clean.