powerlogger or plx sm-afr?

tford

Registered Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2004
Probably not enough funds to buy both even though I'd like to, so which one first? Check sig. Still in 13's so def have some tune issues. I think I need to work on the 60 ft. Best was 1.8 on 235 mt's. Which would be the most beneficial? Or should I just drop it off at Bill Anderson's shop and pay the same? So heres the choices:
1. Powerlogger ($265)
2. Plx wideband ($200)
3. Let Bill tune ($300)

Thanks. I need all of the help I can get. Too much $$ spent and not enough results.
 
Probably not enough funds to buy both even though I'd like to, so which one first? Check sig. Still in 13's so def have some tune issues. I think I need to work on the 60 ft. Best was 1.8 on 235 mt's. Which would be the most beneficial? Or should I just drop it off at Bill Anderson's shop and pay the same? So heres the choices:
1. Powerlogger ($265)
2. Plx wideband ($200)
3. Let Bill tune ($300)

Thanks. I need all of the help I can get. Too much $$ spent and not enough results.


Well, since you have no way to read your air fuel ratio, the $200 PLX SM-AFR wont help you much. It'll cost closer to $280 with a gauge to read it with. so keep that in mind.
Powerlogger is a better start for now. Later you can get the PLX cheaper, for $200 because by then you'll have a way to read it through the Powerlogger.
 
Yeah. That's the setup I wanted. Hopefully I can just get both together & be done. Sure would be nice to see a package deal on this to save some $$. Oh yeah, what the hell am I thinking saving $$, I have a Buick. Thank, Tim
 
Get the power logger now and get a Turbo Tweak chip and do it yourself. No need to have a shop tune your car for you with all of the scan tools and adjustable chips that are out now. The old school using stock O2 and knock sensor still work. I ran 10s on two different stock longblock full weight cars using Power Logger and Turbo Tweak chip. Used stock O2 and knock sensor as my primary tools. Then when funds are available get a WB.
 
Already have the chip & laptop so at least it sounds like I've been working towards the right direction for once. Keep em coming guys. Thanks
 
Get the power logger now and get a Turbo Tweak chip and do it yourself. No need to have a shop tune your car for you with all of the scan tools and adjustable chips that are out now. The old school using stock O2 and knock sensor still work. I ran 10s on two different stock longblock full weight cars using Power Logger and Turbo Tweak chip. Used stock O2 and knock sensor as my primary tools. Then when funds are available get a WB.


Yep, Power Logger then I'd get the AEM uego wideband for $189 gauge contains the brainbox and is easy to install. Powerlogger compatible too. I agree start with basics. Read the Turbo Tweak tuning tips, Razors tuning tips, and get more aggressive with the tune up slowly. Learn how to post logs on here and "we all" can help you tune it for free. I used the scanmaster and common sense to get my first 10 sec pass too:D.
 
Probably not enough funds to buy both even though I'd like to, so which one first? Check sig. Still in 13's so def have some tune issues. I think I need to work on the 60 ft. Best was 1.8 on 235 mt's. Which would be the most beneficial? Or should I just drop it off at Bill Anderson's shop and pay the same? So heres the choices:
1. Powerlogger ($265)
2. Plx wideband ($200)
3. Let Bill tune ($300)

Thanks. I need all of the help I can get. Too much $$ spent and not enough results.

heres where i got mine for $175. http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19829&cat=749&page=1
 
I want to see wideband readings through the scanmaster. Will most of the wideband kits be compatible with it or am I limited?

Thanks for the link on the plx. That's the cheapest I've seen them.
 
Probably not enough funds to buy both even though I'd like to, so which one first? Check sig. Still in 13's so def have some tune issues. I think I need to work on the 60 ft. Best was 1.8 on 235 mt's. Which would be the most beneficial? Or should I just drop it off at Bill Anderson's shop and pay the same? So heres the choices:
1. Powerlogger ($265)
2. Plx wideband ($200)
3. Let Bill tune ($300)

Thanks. I need all of the help I can get. Too much $$ spent and not enough results.

What's going on here......My T ran a mid 13's pretty much stock (gutted cat, k&n, tt chip) and that was with a best 60' of 1.9
Your combo should put you in the low 12's at least I would think. Is your trans slipping?
Theres a TTA for sale on here that runs low 11s with that 6152, looks to just have bolt on's.
 
I want to see wideband readings through the scanmaster. Will most of the wideband kits be compatible with it or am I limited?

Thanks for the link on the plx. That's the cheapest I've seen them.
just need the powerlogger and update chip for scanmaster "included"
 
What's going on here......My T ran a mid 13's pretty much stock (gutted cat, k&n, tt chip) and that was with a best 60' of 1.9
Your combo should put you in the low 12's at least I would think. Is your trans slipping?
Theres a TTA for sale on here that runs low 11s with that 6152, looks to just have bolt on's.


Tell me about it! I'm not racing until this thing is running how it should. I'm tired of being disappointed. Alky and tweak chip slowed it down by .5. At least I have all winter to try to figure it out. Trans was not slipping but lately has been shifting a little lazy. I've heard higher boost with alky can kill a trans though. I guess it's time to change trans filter & look around. Any of you east coast gurus want to check it out? Too damn cold now though, so dyno would probably be best. Zero traction on these cold roads. Scanmaster #'s to follow soon. Who ever figures it out will get paid in cash. Thanks in advance, Tim
 
Tell me about it! I'm not racing until this thing is running how it should. I'm tired of being disappointed. Alky and tweak chip slowed it down by .5. At least I have all winter to try to figure it out. Trans was not slipping but lately has been shifting a little lazy. I've heard higher boost with alky can kill a trans though. I guess it's time to change trans filter & look around. Any of you east coast gurus want to check it out? Too damn cold now though, so dyno would probably be best. Zero traction on these cold roads. Scanmaster #'s to follow soon. Who ever figures it out will get paid in cash. Thanks in advance, Tim

alky and erics chip did not slow the car down. .5 by adding alky is a result in a poor tune. a good tune should result in 100+ - hp and low 12's on a stock setup. pumping to much in will slow your car down. what is your setup and what is your boost and alky knob set at
 
narrow band o2 says 785 wot but I know that is not a reliable tuning tool
 
When track reopens, I'll do a track day and leave the line without building boost so my launch can stay consistent. I guess I'll turn alky off & re-tune from stock boost levels, after powerlogger & wideband of course.
 
alky on around 6 or 7, single nozzle, boost @ 21

is it 6 or 7 thats is a big difference in a tune. your car at 21 psi with your other parts should net low 12 if not tickling high 11's. i would put the knob back at 5.5 julios starting point and start the boost at 18 to 20 and tune for no knock then get to desired boost again tuning for no knock. the sweet spot for that turbo is around 25 to 27. once you get comfortable with tune and boost then start to pull fuel from chip again watching for knock. this is why a wideband is critical
 
I'll turn everything back down & re-tune. Thanks for the tip. I think I rushed the tune a little. I think the knob is between 6 & 7. Should I just focus on boost/fuel & not worry about timing for now?
 
I'll turn everything back down & re-tune. Thanks for the tip. I think I rushed the tune a little. I think the knob is between 6 & 7. Should I just focus on boost/fuel & not worry about timing for now?

i would start with a confortable boost level lets say 25. i would slowly run the boost up and monitor knock and increase alky as needed. and stay at that tune. if you then decide to go to track then make a pass with same tune as long as everything is still good. i would look at mph and slowly turn up timing 1 degree at a time. so lets say your at 23/21 with alky chip then goto 24/22 and monitor mph if it goes up then keep going till the mph doesnt change. once the timing is maxed on mph then you can either pull fuel and see if it increases the mph or you can add fuel in chip to see if that does. some cars like more fuel and others less. hopefully you have a powerlogger and wideband by then to really monitor a/f
 
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