PTC converter users

[V6POWER]

Ed,

I don't know what version of PL I have. Where can I find that info?

Go to Full Throttle support forums website and look in the PL section and do a search for how to add the CS% to the .ini file. I forget what I did but it should be on their website.

I ran the rpm/mph shown on the attached PL screenshot through the TCI calculator and got 61%. I have 27" tire and 3.42 gear.

 

[bison]

Ed,

I don't know what version of PL I have. Where can I find that info?

Go to Full Throttle support forums website and look in the PL section and do a search for how to add the CS% to the .ini file. I forget what I did but it should be on their website.

I ran the rpm/mph shown on the attached PL screenshot through the TCI calculator and got 61%. I have 27" tire and 3.42 gear.

That was right after the 2-3 shift. Its going to be high then no matter what converter. You need to check it right before you shift and at the top end.

 

[V6POWER]

Two more screenshots for CS%.

 

[V6POWER]

Second one

 

[buttonfly]

I have a 2800 l/u PTC on a 6152 and love it. We actually started out with a 3200, and tightened it up to 2800. Dusty nailed it!! I love my PTC:biggrin:

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Dusty--Would the 10" have lock up at cruise?

Yes, lock up for cruise.

The shift is something that needs attention. A new converter can change the shift point if it's more efficient. I always got the 1-2 shift to work automatically at 5800 and then shifted manually to 3rd.

 

[V6POWER]

How did you get the 1-2 shift where you wanted it? Should I change the spring as bison suggested or will the PTC take care of it? thanks.

 

[HeatleyRacing]

Yes, lock up for cruise.

The shift is something that needs attention. A new converter can change the shift point if it's more efficient. I always got the 1-2 shift to work automatically at 5800 and then shifted manually to 3rd.

Dusty, Im told by one of the board TRANNY GURUs that you should leave in 1st or 2nd and do the 3rd shift manually because in 1 and 2 theres an extra band engaged in the tranny and it will last longer.. If you just put it in DRIVE and launch it doesnt have the reverse band locked .. Is this why you also leave in 2nd and do the manual 3rd shift ??

 

[Dusty Bradford]

How did you get the 1-2 shift where you wanted it? Should I change the spring as bison suggested or will the PTC take care of it? thanks.

I'm not a tranny guy so I'm not sure what spring he's talking about. My car only needed a little weight off the governer which took a couple tries before I got it right. A tranny guy could walk you through it with the proper bit size to start with. I drilled 2 small holes in the governer weights to remove weight from it.

 

[Dusty Bradford]

Dusty, Im told by one of the board TRANNY GURUs that you should leave in 1st or 2nd and do the 3rd shift manually because in 1 and 2 theres an extra band engaged in the tranny and it will last longer.. If you just put it in DRIVE and launch it doesnt have the reverse band locked .. Is this why you also leave in 2nd and do the manual 3rd shift ??

I had heard the same thing, couldn't tell you if it's true. My car would shift 1-2 at 5800 after the getting the governer right but shift 5400 2-3. I shifted manually for better et's.

 

[V6POWER]

Dusty--Thanks for the info.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I'm surprised you'd get a 10" PTC if you 1/8 mile the car a lot. If I tracked the car that much I'd get the 9.5" and not sweat the tiny loss in 4th on the street for the gain in E.T. the 9.5" has been known to offer.

 

[scot w.]

Ptc

I have a PTC converter in my car and Dusty recomended a 2800 N L/U 10" and Nailed it dead on!! it is Awesome! I couldn't be more happy with the spool time and it at WOT. Track times yet to come, but shortly we will have some numbers..

Scot W.

 

[bison]

How did you get the 1-2 shift where you wanted it? Should I change the spring as bison suggested or will the PTC take care of it? thanks.

You will have to change springs. Its not a one shot deal. You have to put the converter in and see where you are. A more efficient converter will make it shift at a lower rpm.

 

[bison]

I'm not a tranny guy so I'm not sure what spring he's talking about. My car only needed a little weight off the governer which took a couple tries before I got it right. A tranny guy could walk you through it with the proper bit size to start with. I drilled 2 small holes in the governer weights to remove weight from it.

Unfortunately his issue is the opposite of what you had Dusty. His is early on the 1-2. Modding the governor will change all the shift points and cause a no 2-3 or very late 2-3 at WOT. He needs a stronger spring on the 1-2 shift valve.

 

[V6POWER]

GNVYUS1--What is to be gained in going to the 9.5 instead of the 10, other than less weight? Is it more efficient? Will it enable better 60'/mph? I know it is built better. I just go to the track for test and tune to try to beat my best time, not to race anyone.

scot w.--Do you have a 10 or 9.5? Your sig. says 9.5. Does the non-lu still lock during cruise speed, just not at WOT or is there a separate PTC that locks at cruise and at WOT?

bison--I will definitely check that spring.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[scot w.]

GNVYUS1--What is to be gained in going to the 9.5 instead of the 10, other than less weight? Is it more efficient? Will it enable better 60'/mph? I know it is built better. I just go to the track for test and tune to try to beat my best time not to race anymore.

scot w.--Do you have a 10 or 9.5? Your sig. says 9.5. Does the non-lu still lock during cruise speed, just not at WOT or is there a separate PTC that locks at cruise and at WOT?

Thanks for all the replies.

Not sure what would be gained over the 9.5" to the 10"!

The buddy I bought mine from said it was a 9.5" but they look so close it's hard to tell. I think mine might be the 10" converter.

NO the N L/U doen't lock up, Thus the reason it's called (Non Lock/Up) Going with a N L/U converter you will only loose a couple hundred RPM's at highway cruise.

Scot W.

 

[bison]

The 9.5 is the custom statored race converter. It is completely different inside. It will offer the best coupling and adjustability on re-stalls. The 10" is typically spec'd for 11 second and slower cars since they are not making enough power to take advantage of the 9.5 and can be ordered with a LU clutch. The 9.5 requires power to make it work. You cant run your car effectively at low boost with it or it will pull the engine down too much on shifts. I have a 9.5 and love it. Im sure Dusty will chime in here with more info.

 

[V6POWER]

I'm confused on lu and non-lu for the 10". In reply #26 Dusty said the 10" he recommends for me would lu at cruise.That indicates to me that he is recommending I get a lu, not a non-lu. Or does the non-lu actually lock at cruise but not WOT?

 

[buttonfly]

I'm confused on lu and non-lu for the 10". In reply #26 Dusty said the 10" he recommends for me would lu at cruise.That indicates to me that he is recommending I get a lu, not a non-lu. Or does the non-lu actually lock at cruise but not WOT?

The 10' L/U is not designed to be locked at WOT, but it will lock during normal cruising.

The 9.5 non L/U is is extremely efficient and customer built for each application. These are the bad boys so to speak.