You can type here any text you want

PTE 6265 swap from 5857

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!
IAC relocator is a real nice piece.
2wpidzo.jpg

1" spacer is perfect
1dzrxs.jpg

next issue is that coupler was suppose to be a 4" to 3"
 
My pleasure, for all I've gained from this site it's the least I can do.
4" to 3" coupling came in tonight, perfect clearance.
28txton.jpg

Eventually I'll go 4" all the way.
20v0u45.jpg

Next issue is turbo drain is leaking real bad, closer to block than turbo. I must of tweaked it, new on on order. Getting closer...maybe this weekend!
 
See post 52. That's what happens with a 4" inlet. One of Buicks little engineering flaws.
Not trying to hijack, Ive been following the tread and love all the work completed!:biggrin:
My question, is a plenum spacer required with the 3 in inlet. Also, I may be wrong, but this car appears to have larger than stock intake tubing. If a car was to have stock size tubing and the 4 in inlet compressor housing would the maf pipe and up pipe clear? (Of course with an iac relocator)
 
Not trying to hijack, Ive been following the tread and love all the work completed!:biggrin:
My question, is a plenum spacer required with the 3 in inlet. Also, I may be wrong, but this car appears to have larger than stock intake tubing. If a car was to have stock size tubing and the 4 in inlet compressor housing would the maf pipe and up pipe clear? (Of course with an iac relocator)

it fits on mine without a spacer, but with the IAC angle boss.

I'm running a 3" MAF pipe at the moment, but have a 4" pipe I was using before.

Its tight, but it fits.
 
Yeah, results vary. I have a 3" up pipe, 4" maf tube, angle boss, stock headers, without a spacer.
 
Good way to expand the thread is to see if others will post their setups.

3" Maf Pipe, 3" Intercooler Pipe, Stock Headers = OK
3" Maf Pipe, 3" Intercooler Pipe, Poston Headers = 1/2" Spacer :mad:
 
Very nice progress.

Here is the last setup I ran on Sarah.

Stock motor, stock t-body, stock upper plenum with RJC power plate. Stock headers. Mark's Big mouth cold air kit with 4" piping & 4" MAF pipe. Precision SL Intercooler. (3" up pipe) Old school PT6776 SP cover in this picture.

DSC00882.jpg


Fitment was close.
No IAC angle bracket.

DSC00895.jpg


DSC00891.jpg


DSC00890.jpg


DSC00889.jpg


I had to bend the wires at a sharper angle to clear the reducer hose, but the big thing I think that helps is, Mark's 4" MAF pipe kit, includes 45* angled hoses that position the MAF pipe in a different spot than your setup does.
The plenum spacer works just fine though.
Just wanted to throw these up there.

Your progress is looking very good, keep us posted with your results.

Patrick
 
thanks, quick update.
Here is the crack in the stock drain line.
ief2gl.jpg

new line installed, went much easier than anticipated. Cotton's line was much more flexible than stock.
2ivd6hu.jpg

Just need to install WG and tidy up, plan to test it Friday, weather suppose to warm to 70 that day. Going to run C16 for first drive just in case, will log the runs.
 
thanks, quick update. new line installed, went much easier than anticipated. Cotton's line was much more flexible than stock.
2ivd6hu.jpg

Just need to install WG and tidy up, plan to test it Friday, weather suppose to warm to 70 that day. Going to run C16 for first drive just in case, will log the runs.

In that picture, it looks like you have a compressor cover to backing plate bolt and clamp missing. Was that on purpose? Or was it accidentally left out? Nevermind, I see it now, you said you have to re-install the actuator. Those factory oil drain tubes tend to be very brittle over the years. I myself have had one crack in the same area. Talk about an Exxon Valdeez mess on your hands.
Just looking out for you.

Patrick
 
OK, test drive update.
Took the car out this weekend and I was a little dissappointed. When depressing the gas there is a solid 2 second delay before all hell breaks loose. The pull is awesome once spooled but the lag is bad. I think if I'm going to stay with this turbo i'll need a better converter. What do most run with this turbo? I think 3000-32000 is recommended but I wonder if that is enough? If I get a a3400-3600 how streetable is it? I'm not sure what I should do? FWIW the ported waste gate was perfect, no overboost at all. I plan to eventually put a stout motor in it so I want to work with this turbo, just not sure what I should do next?? I didn't datalog but will this weekend.
 
How is it going WOT from like 30-40mph? The converter will help that spool up. I would do a 32-3400 stall for quick spool.
 
With the ball bearing version and PTC 9.5" its spooled quickly. The stall speed was roughly 3200@ zero boost/vacuum. Comparatively the 6262BB spooled at least 2x as fast with the same converter. Alot find this hard to believe since they think the 65 trim is only a little more than a 62 trim but on these small engines its quite a jump. For a 65 trim ex wheel in a Precision ex housing .63 or .85 you need at least 3200 with a good converter imo. A journal version would like at least a quality 3600 stall converter.
 
The 30-40 mph response was lagging. I havn't drivien the car since.... still debating what to do, upgrade the converter or sell the turbo and put the 5857 back on. I'm in no hurry to commit either way. On the "Vig 0 pump 3200 ", I did look at their site. What does the 0 stand for? I read on a forum that their converters are rated low and the 3200 is closer to 3600 which would follow what Bison recommends. How streetable is a 3600 converter, I've never had a car with one?
 
Back
Top