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PTE 70 GTQ- Question..

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scot w.

GNSperformance.com
Joined
Feb 19, 2005
Messages
8,810
Has the internal wastegate on a Terry houston DP been working okay with the internal wastegate on the 70GTQ's? What needs to be done to the wastegate hole on the housing? i noticed it's smaller than the puck on the DP. Please let me know what to do! and what i can expect buy leaving it alone and porting it.

PS. ( I already seen the thread on porting the DP but noting on the wastegate hole) or any info on how well the internal W/G's are working out.. Any info is much appreciated! Thank you, Scot w.
 
Has the internal wastegate on a Terry houston DP been working okay with the internal wastegate on the 70GTQ's? What needs to be done to the wastegate hole on the housing? i noticed it's smaller than the puck on the DP. Please let me know what to do! and what i can expect buy leaving it alone and porting it.

PS. ( I already seen the thread on porting the DP but noting on the wastegate hole) or any info on how well the internal W/G's are working out.. Any info is much appreciated! Thank you, Scot w.

Put some white grease on the wastegate puck.. install the downpipe and swing the puck closed.. then take off the downpipe and you will see where you need to port the hole bigger.. if you don't you WILL get boost creep.
 
heres an article on porting for the stock turbo , Port Your Stock Turbo
although the puck dimensions wont be the same the theory and how much you should leave for sealing applies for any puck/turbo

i usually use a small router with a diamond stone but a dremmel with a 1/2" sand stone works too.
it can be ported on the car without having to fully remove the turbo , loosen the header nuts to the exhaust housing and lift the turbo up a little and slide a peice of thin cardboard between the header and the turbo , when you are done lift the turbo a little and all the grinding dust will fall out
 
i usually use a small router with a diamond stone but a dremmel with a 1/2" sand stone works too.
it can be ported on the car without having to fully remove the turbo , loosen the header nuts to the exhaust housing and lift the turbo up a little and slide a peice of thin cardboard between the header and the turbo , when you are done lift the turbo a little and all the grinding dust will fall out

Is that even needed? What could the dust and small shavings even hurt, wouldn't they just get blown out?
 
If there's any oil or soot that's accumulated on either the turbine wheel or inside of the turbine housing, that dust and small shavings would cake up and form a paste. It would be all over the inside of the turbine housing and the turbine wheel if not protected. Think of it as a grinding paste / sand blasting media that would definitely hurt the turbine wheel after a few times being run up to 80-120k rpms. Not too mention this crud working it's way past the oil seals into the oil passages of the turbo and eventually back down to your bearings in the engine.
I highly recommend removing the turbine housing completely from the turbo before doing any porting or grinding, it's just not worth it. Do it right the first time.
Just my O2's worth.

Patrick
 
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