Pulling motor out

[turboculosis]

OK. I have the feeling I have hurt my motor ( damaged piston ring on cyl. 1) on my last track outing.I still have yet to do perform a leakdown test. If so, I will be removing the engine assembly myself. I have all the tools and equipment available to do the task, but this is my first pull and install. My neighbor (works on imports) is willing to give me a hand as well as supply the equipment at his shop . I just would like some pointers and advise and don't do's from you more experienced guys. Once it is out I will send out the long block for repair. Thanks in advance for the replies.


---Alan

 

[d0n_3d]

disconnect motor mounts (easy), disconnect motor from tranny (6 14mm bolts), disconnect 3 15mm flywheel to torque converter bolts, take out as much easy crap out NOW (like intercooler, hoses, turbo, stuff that you can get to easy), it will make it alot easier later. Other than that it's pretty much a no brainer...OH make sure you disconnect the hood struts and either latch the hood to the ceiling of the garage (so it props straight up) or do the latch trick which I've never been able to figure out (someone else can chime in here)...

 

[bison]

The hood can stay on. Just remove the shocks and prop the hood open higher than the shocks would allow. You will need to support the transmission while pulling the engine and storing the car. You can use a piece of chain and wrap it around the center hood bumper to hold the trans while the engine is out for storage. Take out the accessories first leaving the PS and AC hanging out of the way. Leave the turbo, intake, and the upper intake all on the engine. Drain the oil and water then pull the engine. Use the upper exhaust studs on the manifolds to pull on with a piece of chain.

Id do a compression test first though. Maybe something small like a partially blown HG that will cost a lot less $.

 

[tford]

just had motor swap too

take pictures with a digital camera so you remember where everything goes. There are a lot of grounds to remember.

 

[Boost231]

pretty easy. once you get in there and start to lift it out you will be like damn that was to easy.

 

[turboculosis]

The hood can stay on. Just remove the shocks and prop the hood open higher than the shocks would allow. You will need to support the transmission while pulling the engine and storing the car. You can use a piece of chain and wrap it around the center hood bumper to hold the trans while the engine is out for storage. Take out the accessories first leaving the PS and AC hanging out of the way. Leave the turbo, intake, and the upper intake all on the engine. Drain the oil and water then pull the engine. Use the upper exhaust studs on the manifolds to pull on with a piece of chain.

Id do a compression test first though. Maybe something small like a partially blown HG that will cost a lot less $.

I've done a comp test and got 150 across all cylinders except for cyl 1 which was at 160 and had he only plug wet w/ oil. The other plugs were bone dry. I've checked turbo on both sides hoping it was the turbo, but that too was bone dry.Btw, all this beacause the car developed a slight but steady blue smoke out the tailpipe at idle after a crappy pass w/ 50*kr and a/f at 15:1 according to powerlogger recording.Here's a link to my whole ordeal
Bad day at the track... - TurboBuicks.com
....I still have to do a leak down test to see where I'm really at. Just the tool hasn't come in the mail yet.

 

[turboculosis]

Thank you for the replies guys. I appreciate 'em.

 

[dwall]

I'm paying attention to this....

as I will be moving an engine in and out also. Keep the great info coming please. Maybe someone could answer a few related questions for mechanical rookies like me. ???

1. Would an engine leveler like pictured help? It has four chains.
2. I assume all exhaust, crossover, headers etc should come off, then use the header bolt holes to attach chains?
3. Accessories coming off would include alternator, air, etc. Right?
4. If I want to drop the engine onto a pallet/furniture dolly - an old tire for a cushion or should I build a 2x10 wood box to support the bottom end?

Thanks everyone.

 

[bison]

I've done a comp test and got 150 across all cylinders except for cyl 1 which was at 160 and had he only plug wet w/ oil. The other plugs were bone dry. I've checked turbo on both sides hoping it was the turbo, but that too was bone dry.Btw, all this beacause the car developed a slight but steady blue smoke out the tailpipe at idle after a crappy pass w/ 50*kr and a/f at 15:1 according to powerlogger recording.Here's a link to my whole ordeal
Bad day at the track... - TurboBuicks.com
....I still have to do a leak down test to see where I'm really at. Just the tool hasn't come in the mail yet.

Id check the connecting rods to see if they are bent. Chances are they are.

 

[gnxtc2]

Alan

If you need a hand, give me a call. If you need my number, e-mail me.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

[turboculosis]

Id check the connecting rods to see if they are bent. Chances are they are.

Wow! I hope not:frown: , but will keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.

 

[turboculosis]

Alan

If you need a hand, give me a call. If you need my number, e-mail me.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Thanks for the offer, Billy. I'll let you know when and where as soon as I get the verdict. I really appreciate it, bigtime. I got your email addy.

--Alan

 

[bison]

Wow! I hope not:frown: , but will keep that in mind. Thanks for the heads up.

If you detonated as bad as you say you did then there will be some carnage.

 

[turboculosis]

I finally got the leakdown tester in and just finished doing a test on cylinder #1. 10% @90psi is what I got, engine warm around 160*. Bad valve seal wetting plug w/ oil...?