Intercooler
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Any last minute pointers? Especially on the 1200.
Putting on the heads with studs, steel shim, GE-1200 tomorrow morning..
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VictoryTrans
The cars stock....I swear
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Yes, one BIG pointer, don't slap too much 1200 on around the water jackets, double and triple checked that they won't be blocked. Other than that, good luck
bob86gn
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Good Luck Jesse!
Intercooler
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0070123-4003 head studs with hex removers. Run $65.00 from Jeg's.
I figure with the 21 day cure time of the 1200 that by the time I get back from Austin it will be ready
I figure with the 21 day cure time of the 1200 that by the time I get back from Austin it will be ready
Intercooler
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Done!
I just finished putting stuff together for the day. Got everything but the cam and front cover together. In doing the steel shim gasket with 1200:
-Have everything laid out (tools, nuts, washers, ARP lube, etc..) because you have to move fast!! I tried the first gasket with a foam roller which worked like ****! I went to the good ole finger method. Definately use a light coat.
-Gooped one side, put it on, leveled it out, then gooped the other side, placed the head on and started torquing.
-When I put the first head on I didn't lube the threads which wasted time. This stuff skins in about 5 minutes so you have to hussle! I had the second head totally ready with tools, lube, etc.. ready to go and it went much smoother.
-For torque I went 50, 60, 70, 80, 85, then went back over them again about 2 hours later and none moved.
Torque sequence I used since I didn't know what others liked, so I made my own:
5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6
I got a nice squish of 1200 to the outside front and back of the head using this.
I just finished putting stuff together for the day. Got everything but the cam and front cover together. In doing the steel shim gasket with 1200:
-Have everything laid out (tools, nuts, washers, ARP lube, etc..) because you have to move fast!! I tried the first gasket with a foam roller which worked like ****! I went to the good ole finger method. Definately use a light coat.
-Gooped one side, put it on, leveled it out, then gooped the other side, placed the head on and started torquing.
-When I put the first head on I didn't lube the threads which wasted time. This stuff skins in about 5 minutes so you have to hussle! I had the second head totally ready with tools, lube, etc.. ready to go and it went much smoother.
-For torque I went 50, 60, 70, 80, 85, then went back over them again about 2 hours later and none moved.
Torque sequence I used since I didn't know what others liked, so I made my own:
5 1 3 7
8 4 2 6
I got a nice squish of 1200 to the outside front and back of the head using this.
VictoryTrans
The cars stock....I swear
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Sounds to me like everything went smoothly for ya. Good to hear that you almost have everything together, you'll be ready to race soon
Intercooler
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I also wanted to mention that the fire-ring isn't much bigger than my 3.820" bore. I think max is about .030" over for this style. Is their another P.N.# that has a larger ring? I would like to use this style on my 4.1 but if I can't, oh well.
Scott Atk
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Jesse, Did I read that right. You have to let the GE1200 cure for 21 days? 
Is that the top secret detail that was worth 99.00?
Is that the top secret detail that was worth 99.00?Intercooler
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I don't know if that was it or not I do know that it takes 21 days to fully cure and I have plenty of 1200 for those that need or want it
The roller method didn't work for me
I also went a little bigger on the steam holes.
I do know that it takes 21 days to fully cure and I have plenty of 1200 for those that need or want it The roller method didn't work for me I also went a little bigger on the steam holes.
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Since Ive probably put more 1200 gooped engines together than anyone, here's what I can tell you.
You cant use too much. If you think you can, you would be amazed at the amount I use. Yes it mostly gets squished out but I want to make sure there is adequate coverage.
You HAVE to retorque the heads after about an hour. This may be due to the large amount of sealer I use but I have found it is must to retorque.
1200 may have a long cure time however it skins over and is mostly pliable in 24 hours. Engine heat helps the curing along. I've done motors one day and had them running the next. No problems.
You DO have to make the steam holes bigger. I assumed Jason was doing this with the gaskets he was sending out. If you don't make the steam holes larger, you will have problems with them getting closed up from the sealant.
Also, something I wanted to comment on. I have seen some people questioning the durability of this setup. Every car that I have ever worked on that blew this setup did so in a grand fashion. I've never had any that were even slightly questionable as to whether or not the headgasket was blown. If they blow, they blow big. So unless you do something crazy, you're going to be hard pressed to blow this setup.
Oh yea, since I haven't used 1200 in a long time, this just came back to me. WEAR GLOVES! This stuff is acidic and hurts like hell when it gets into your cuticles.
Good luck
You cant use too much. If you think you can, you would be amazed at the amount I use. Yes it mostly gets squished out but I want to make sure there is adequate coverage.
You HAVE to retorque the heads after about an hour. This may be due to the large amount of sealer I use but I have found it is must to retorque.
1200 may have a long cure time however it skins over and is mostly pliable in 24 hours. Engine heat helps the curing along. I've done motors one day and had them running the next. No problems.
You DO have to make the steam holes bigger. I assumed Jason was doing this with the gaskets he was sending out. If you don't make the steam holes larger, you will have problems with them getting closed up from the sealant.
Also, something I wanted to comment on. I have seen some people questioning the durability of this setup. Every car that I have ever worked on that blew this setup did so in a grand fashion. I've never had any that were even slightly questionable as to whether or not the headgasket was blown. If they blow, they blow big. So unless you do something crazy, you're going to be hard pressed to blow this setup.
Oh yea, since I haven't used 1200 in a long time, this just came back to me. WEAR GLOVES! This stuff is acidic and hurts like hell when it gets into your cuticles.
Good luck
So what's the trick to keeping this stuff out of the water jackets? I can see how they are mostly large enough to not be too restricted when some of the gorilla-sperm squishes in there...but how do you keep the steam holes from getting plugged...even if you open them up.?
Intercooler
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I think mainly do not go real thick on the goo! I know Jay C has good luck thick but I didn't over-do it. Mine still may be obstructed to a degree. I think next time I will go even bigger on the steam holes. Maybe 3/8" or bigger. I have my fingers crossed
perhaps we need something to stuff in the gasket holes that will prevent the
goo from filling in the holes, but yet dissolve in hot water.....
Ideas?
TurboBob
(I don't like the idea of opening those holes up, they aren't 'steam' holes,
they are water 'metering' holes and control the flow of water around that
part of the head....)
goo from filling in the holes, but yet dissolve in hot water.....
Ideas?
TurboBob
(I don't like the idea of opening those holes up, they aren't 'steam' holes,
they are water 'metering' holes and control the flow of water around that
part of the head....)
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There isnt a trick. Making the steam holes bigger will keep those from getting stopped up. When you disassembvled the engine, there is always a small amount in the corners of the water jackets but nothing to be concerned with.
Im the beginning when I started messing around with the 1200, I had some minor heating issues with engines I used it on. Nothing major but the engines ran a little hotter than normal. The solution was making the steam holes bigger. I use a die grinder and open them up to about the circumfrance of the grinder bit. When the bit goes all the way through, then I clean up the edges of the hole and call it done.
If you look at the size of the hole the steam hole is covering, you can see why it's pretty hard to stop up the enlarged steam holes.
As far as using too much, once again, if you saw how much I use, I think you would agree it would be hard to use more. You can slice it any way you want but I've been using this method with various sealers for going on 12 years now so I've built and taken apart a lot of engines with this stuff on them.
Im the beginning when I started messing around with the 1200, I had some minor heating issues with engines I used it on. Nothing major but the engines ran a little hotter than normal. The solution was making the steam holes bigger. I use a die grinder and open them up to about the circumfrance of the grinder bit. When the bit goes all the way through, then I clean up the edges of the hole and call it done.
If you look at the size of the hole the steam hole is covering, you can see why it's pretty hard to stop up the enlarged steam holes.
As far as using too much, once again, if you saw how much I use, I think you would agree it would be hard to use more. You can slice it any way you want but I've been using this method with various sealers for going on 12 years now so I've built and taken apart a lot of engines with this stuff on them.
REDS HOT AIR
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and what do you all do about it ozzing into the cylinders??
Intercooler
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Well, when I put it on the bottom side I placed the shim with goo on the block then levelled it out by hand. When I did this it squeezed some to the inside of the cylinder so I swiped it off. Obviously when I put the head on I had no way of cleaning anything off so it is just there. This is the reason why I think best to use an extremely light coat.
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