question for engine builders

vacuum 6

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2006
Is this correct for setting the lash (non-shaft type)?

TDC on #1 cylinder and adjust the following valves:

Exhaust 1 - 5- 6
Intake 1- 2 - 3

Next turn crank over 1 revolution, and adjust the following valves,

Exhaust 2 - 3 - 4
Intake 4 - 5- 6
 
I'm not an engine builder but I do it this way.

Bring #1 to TDC (compression stroke). Mark the balancer in thirds, 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00 positions. Or you can measure the circumference of the balancer and divide it into thirds.

When #1 is at TDC, the lifters will be on the base of the intake and exhaust lobes of the cam of #1 cylinder. Now adjust both valves on #1 cylinder.

Next, rotate the balancer clockwise (as you face it) a 1/3 revolution. Stop when mark is at the 12:00 position. Now go to cylinder #6. The valves should be closed and the intake and exhaust lifters should be at the base of the lobe. Now adjust both valves on #6 cylinder.

Continue this process until you get through the firing order. 1-6-5-4-3-2.

Others do it different but I find this way simpler and no guessing with is the intake and exhaust valve.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com
 
Is this correct for setting the lash (non-shaft type)?

TDC on #1 cylinder and adjust the following valves:

Exhaust 1 - 5- 6
Intake 1- 2 - 3

Next turn crank over 1 revolution, and adjust the following valves,

Exhaust 2 - 3 - 4
Intake 4 - 5- 6

I don't have my notes with me, so I can't confirm the cylinder numbers. The method is correct. I use the same method on my engine and it has a long duration camshaft.

Another tip. After setting your valvetrain HOT and the settings have stabilized, which may require 2 or 3 adjustment cycles, let the car cool over night and check the clearances cold. Once you know that number, now you can set your valve train cold, at your leisure. Instead of risking burning yourself and having to hurry because the valve train is cooling on you.
 
I don't have my notes with me, so I can't confirm the cylinder numbers. The method is correct. I use the same method on my engine and it has a long duration camshaft..

Anyway when you have a sec can you check your notes and verify?

Another tip. After setting your valvetrain HOT and the settings have stabilized, which may require 2 or 3 adjustment cycles, let the car cool over night and check the clearances cold. Once you know that number, now you can set your valve train cold, at your leisure. Instead of risking burning yourself and having to hurry because the valve train is cooling on you.
I'm assuming this is for solid lifters? I have hydraulic roller.
 
Anyway when you have a sec can you check your notes and verify?


I'm assuming this is for solid lifters? I have hydraulic roller.

Dah?! Sorry. I'm getting over the flu and not thinking clearly. I should have checked with you on which tappet style you were using. I'll check at work today and post back tonight.
 
Dah?! Sorry. I'm getting over the flu and not thinking clearly. I should have checked with you on which tappet style you were using. I'll check at work today and post back tonight.

No problem! Thanks for checking.
 
How about the ICE method

When the Intake valve closes adjust Exhust
when the exhust valve just opens adjust intake

I was told this is right!! What do yall think??

Puddin
 
How about the ICE method

When the Intake valve closes adjust Exhust
when the exhust valve just opens adjust intake

I was told this is right!! What do yall think??

Puddin

The thing I like about the #1 TDC, then #4 TDC method is, you only have to turn the engine 2 times. The first time is to find and put #1 at TDC on the timing mark. The 2nd and last time is to turn one complete turn to the TDC mark again. It beats the hell out of running back and forth turning, adjusting, turning, adjusting, turning, adjusting, turning, adjusting, etc. Man, I must be getting old. It was tiring just typing that out.


At #1 TDC adjust these valves;
Intake: 1, 2, 3
Exhaust: 1, 5, 6

At #4 TDC adjust these valves;
Intake: 4, 5, 6
Exhaust: 2, 3, 4
 
I actually have the above written on the top of the box that I keep my valve adjusting tools in.
 
Don,

Thanks for verifying for me. This help out a lot!!!
 
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I'm not an engine builder but I do it this way.

Bring #1 to TDC (compression stroke). Mark the balancer in thirds, 12:00, 4:00 and 8:00 positions. Or you can measure the circumference of the balancer and divide it into thirds.

When #1 is at TDC, the lifters will be on the base of the intake and exhaust lobes of the cam of #1 cylinder. Now adjust both valves on #1 cylinder.

Next, rotate the balancer clockwise (as you face it) a 1/3 revolution. Stop when mark is at the 12:00 position. Now go to cylinder #6. The valves should be closed and the intake and exhaust lifters should be at the base of the lobe. Now adjust both valves on #6 cylinder.

Continue this process until you get through the firing order. 1-6-5-4-3-2.

Others do it different but I find this way simpler and no guessing with is the intake and exhaust valve.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

Billy and/or Don,

Per the above procedure does this work for a leakdown test (to find the TDC of each cylinder)?

Thanks guys!
 
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I ALWAYS use the "ICE" proceedure. That way I KNOW that I didn't do the wrong one, say after a couple of beers.;) (though I never really do engine work after beer.)
 
Yes Walter. Following Billy's routine, you can do a leakdown test the same.
 
On my sbc's i like to get zero lash, fire up motor and as its squirting in my eye from my high volume pump I grab the wrong rag soaked with thinner to wipe my eye. By this time the rest has hit the header and now its smoken like crazy and as im screaming for the door i slip and fall from the now oil soaked garage banging my head on the vise.

yeah, you say smart A$$ but it kinda went that way a long time ago.

:eek: DOH!
 
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