I've seen comparison tests between intercoolers, but not between radiators. How do you objectively pick one? Thickness? Number of cores? Aluminum vs. brass? Prices go from $100 (F-body) to $800 (BeCool). I'm so confused!
Check out a thread I started about ALRADCO American made radiators.QUOTE]
Here is the thread I was referencing above in my other post:
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/ge...-aluminum-radiator-american-made-alradco.html
I like this radiator not only because it works great, but it looks stock, made in the US, and is aluminum which I feel dissipates heat better than brass/copper.
A good (but certainly not the end-all be-all) measure of capacity is the total tube area. Example; a certain core (pick your material, comparison is between similar types) has 3 rows of 1/2" tubes, and there are 40 tubes per row. Thats 120 total 1/2" tubes, or 60 tube-inches. Another core has 2 rows of 1" tubes, and there are 30 tubes per row. So thats 60 total 1" tubes or 60 tube-inches. So they are the same? Well kinda, they are close but the nod goes to the one with the the larger tubes. It has to do with flat-to-tube ratio: larger tubes have more area to transfer heat to the fins.
That helps. Maybe some vendors will chime in as to how their's fits into your analysis. Thanks.
Someone told me that there earlier too so I looked them up and I couldn’t find anything for them . However I did learn about a company called Cold Case and they make an oversize twin core that they claim will cool better than a 3 or a 4 core even. So I bought the darn thing from Gbody parts. From what I gather it looks like a work of art but I haven’t received it yet so I’ll do a box on the opening and put it on YouTube When I get it. It should be here in about a week. From all the reading I did and from talking to Jason at RJC, it is the way to go. He also told me to get the wiring kit from Casper’s and the fans from Hartline. However I couldn’t find the fans on Hartlines website. So I just bought the entire kit from Gbody parts that comes with the radiator. Definitely not a cheap piece but I’m glad that I got it because my car definitely needs some help in that department. I’ll update when it’s installed.Check out a thread I started about ALRADCO American made radiators. California guy who has a manufacturing background and loves the Turbo Buicks decided to make some rads. I got rid of the F body as some leak between the plastic and alum joint. I really wanted American made too. I put an info thread on here about it, its really amazing. Cools like mad, looks stock if powdercoated, and is a very well made piece. I am typing on my phone so don't have the link to my thread handy, but search "ALRADCO AMERICAN MADE" and you should see it.
It has two big rows where the fbod has one, etc. I put lots of comparisons in there. Hope this helps.
I also have a Flow Kooler water pump but have not really driven the car since I installed it but hope it works as well.I still don't understand why you guys get all crazy on your cooling systems, but never put a real deal, high flow water pump in. I still have my original, 150k+ mi, stock 30 yo radiator with a Flow Kooler water pump and 160° thermostat. Also, I run 50/50 water/antifreeze. I cruise at 162°-163° and spike momentarily at 167° when my fan comes on. The highest I've ever registered on my scanmaster was 179°, and that was after several consecutive wot hits with the weather in the high 80s. Afterwards, within 15 minutes of normal driving, I was right back at 162°-163°.
After hearing all the chatter on this board about RMI 25, I decided to add a bottle to my cooling system after recently flushing it. Now, I'm cruising at 152°-154°. So to sums things up, get a real water pump and add RMI 25 to your system.
The Flow Kooler water pump is billet and made in the USA. Plus, if you go to their website and do some reading, you'll see there are other benefits to it; other than just cooling. It's highly educational in regards to the science of cooling and components. He has this whole science thing behind his water pumps and claims you can even gain hp with one. You gain hp, because you use less to turn it. And at the same time, improving your flow efficiency will conserve your hp. Plus, if you're running a thinner core aluminum rad they go hand and hand.
I ordered one lol..I still don't understand why you guys get all crazy on your cooling systems, but never put a real deal, high flow water pump in. I still have my original, 150k+ mi, stock 30 yo radiator with a Flow Kooler water pump and 160° thermostat. Also, I run 50/50 water/antifreeze. I cruise at 162°-163° and spike momentarily at 167° when my fan comes on. The highest I've ever registered on my scanmaster was 179°, and that was after several consecutive wot hits with the weather in the high 80s. Afterwards, within 15 minutes of normal driving, I was right back at 162°-163°.
After hearing all the chatter on this board about RMI 25, I decided to add a bottle to my cooling system after recently flushing it. Now, I'm cruising at 152°-154°. So to sums things up, get a real water pump and add RMI 25 to your system.
The Flow Kooler water pump is billet and made in the USA. Plus, if you go to their website and do some reading, you'll see there are other benefits to it; other than just cooling. It's highly educational in regards to the science of cooling and components. He has this whole science thing behind his water pumps and claims you can even gain hp with one. You gain hp, because you use less to turn it. And at the same time, improving your flow efficiency will conserve your hp. Plus, if you're running a thinner core aluminum rad they go hand and hand.
My radiator is pretty shot there’s lots of missing fins it’s fairly plugged up I’m afraid to power wash it because I think I might blow the fins right over the damn thing. That’s why I bought a new radiator. Because I needed one anyway I decided I would get a high-performance radiator because why the hell not. Not only did I do that but I also took your advice and I bought the high flow water pump as well. As far as RMI25, I don’t know where the hell they get that stuff. Don’t know any distributors in Edmonton.I still don't understand why you guys get all crazy on your cooling systems, but never put a real deal, high flow water pump in. I still have my original, 150k+ mi, stock 30 yo radiator with a Flow Kooler water pump and 160° thermostat. Also, I run 50/50 water/antifreeze. I cruise at 162°-163° and spike momentarily at 167° when my fan comes on. The highest I've ever registered on my scanmaster was 179°, and that was after several consecutive wot hits with the weather in the high 80s. Afterwards, within 15 minutes of normal driving, I was right back at 162°-163°.
After hearing all the chatter on this board about RMI 25, I decided to add a bottle to my cooling system after recently flushing it. Now, I'm cruising at 152°-154°. So to sums things up, get a real water pump and add RMI 25 to your system.
The Flow Kooler water pump is billet and made in the USA. Plus, if you go to their website and do some reading, you'll see there are other benefits to it; other than just cooling. It's highly educational in regards to the science of cooling and components. He has this whole science thing behind his water pumps and claims you can even gain hp with one. You gain hp, because you use less to turn it. And at the same time, improving your flow efficiency will conserve your hp. Plus, if you're running a thinner core aluminum rad they go hand and hand.