Re-assembling original long block.

[TurboDave]

For my engine building experts out there:

Time to start piecing together my orginal numbers matching block. I removed and totally dis-assembled it back about 1991 and at the time it had about 120,000 miles on it, some racing but nothing real hard core. The block has been all cleaned and totally stripped.

I'm hoping to be able to re-use all the original internals with no machine work needed.

The cylinder bores still have a hint of crosshatch, and while there's bit of a stain at the top and bottom of them, there's NO ridge, none, nada. Out of round and taper are barely measurable. No more than .0001-.0002

Here's the bores
1-3.7999
2-3.8000
3-3.8000
4-3.8000
5-3.7999
6-3.7999

I hope the differences are just my eyes trying to read the cylinder gauge. If I had to say what I saw mostly, it would be closer to 3.79995

Now the pistons. I measured at the top land and at the middle skirt at the pin level

1-3.7486 top (clearence to bore .051)
1-3.7953 skirt (clearence to bore .0047)
2-3.7496 top (clearence to bore .050)
2-3.7950 skirt (clearence to bore .0050)
3-3.7491 top (clearence to bore .050)
3-3.7956 skirt (clearence to bore .0044)
4-3.7500 top (clearence to bore .050)
4-3.7950 skirt (clearence to bore .0050)
5-3.7495 top (clearence to bore .050)
5-3.7954 skirt (clearence to bore .0047)
6-3.7483 top (clearence to bore .051)
6-3.7955 skirt (clearence to bore .0044)

I'm hoping all I have to do to the cylinder bores is a quick ball hone just to clean up the stains. Correct???

Here's the original crank. Just had the journals all polished.

Main journals:
1-2.4994
2-2.4993
3-2.4992
4-2.4994

Rod journals
1-2.2486
2-2.2486
3-2.2487
4-2.2485
5-2.2486
6-2.2485

Can I assume from these measurements that I can order "standard size" bearings for the mains and rods???

I haven't het measured the rod big ends for out of round but I'm betting they'll also be OK.

My first order will have to be main, rod and cam bearings. Then I'll have to find a set of block plugs.


ADVICE welcomed!!

 

[Just a Six??]

I just took an engine in to be measured that had 75K miles & ran perfect. It just needs a ball hone with rings & bearings. " I believe?" my shop said within 3-5 thous was acceptable but not for over the max of 100 HP per cylinder. I am going with 5 thous over pistons (so I can sleep better) but yours seems pretty close in the numbers.
I dont know my actual numbers to compare notes but when pistons arrive I could have them measure again & write it all down for you if needed?
Your info has helped me many times with PL & Gen 2 so its the least I can do for you but it wont be for a few weeks.
Cheers!
David

PS: The file to fit Total Seal rings can be opened up a few extra thous & actually work better for some.

 

[turbofabricator]

Slap it together, Dave. The numbers all look VERY acceptable to me. New rings (gapped correctly) on a dingle ball hone job and it'll run another 120,000 miles. If you plan on boosting it to over 550 HP, then maybe a forged bottom end would be advisable at the current cost of a kit. BUT.....the stock rotating assembly can handle 600+ with a great tune-up. Pocket port the cylinder heads while you're at it. Big gains there. Stock 9441 FelPro gaskets are all you need, too. These engines are pretty amazing pieces. I've done quite a few engines this way over the years for the budget minded folks. They'll run high tens/low elevens all day.

 

[TurboDave]

Slap it together, Dave. The numbers all look VERY acceptable to me. New rings (gapped correctly) on a dingle ball hone job and it'll run another 120,000 miles. If you plan on boosting it to over 550 HP, then maybe a forged bottom end would be advisable at the current cost of a kit. BUT.....the stock rotating assembly can handle 600+ with a great tune-up. Pocket port the cylinder heads while you're at it. Big gains there. Stock 9441 FelPro gaskets are all you need, too. These engines are pretty amazing pieces. I've done quite a few engines this way over the years for the budget minded folks. They'll run high tens/low elevens all day.

Thanks, don't plan on anything special, certainly not more hp than what I'm presently setup for, and that's around 400-420 to the wheels.
Run whatever ordinary bearings my vendors suggest, and yes, I much prefer the 9441PT gaskets. They're what I'm running now and they've held up perfectly.
Any special ring recommendatons, and gaps?????

 

[bison]

For my engine building experts out there:

Time to start piecing together my orginal numbers matching block. I removed and totally dis-assembled it back about 1991 and at the time it had about 120,000 miles on it, some racing but nothing real hard core. The block has been all cleaned and totally stripped.

I'm hoping to be able to re-use all the original internals with no machine work needed.

The cylinder bores still have a hint of crosshatch, and while there's bit of a stain at the top and bottom of them, there's NO ridge, none, nada. Out of round and taper are barely measurable. No more than .0001-.0002

Here's the bores
1-3.7999
2-3.8000
3-3.8000
4-3.8000
5-3.7999
6-3.7999

I hope the differences are just my eyes trying to read the cylinder gauge. If I had to say what I saw mostly, it would be closer to 3.79995

Now the pistons. I measured at the top land and at the middle skirt at the pin level

1-3.7486 top (clearence to bore .051)
1-3.7953 skirt (clearence to bore .0047)
2-3.7496 top (clearence to bore .050)
2-3.7950 skirt (clearence to bore .0050)
3-3.7491 top (clearence to bore .050)
3-3.7956 skirt (clearence to bore .0044)
4-3.7500 top (clearence to bore .050)
4-3.7950 skirt (clearence to bore .0050)
5-3.7495 top (clearence to bore .050)
5-3.7954 skirt (clearence to bore .0047)
6-3.7483 top (clearence to bore .051)
6-3.7955 skirt (clearence to bore .0044)

I'm hoping all I have to do to the cylinder bores is a quick ball hone just to clean up the stains. Correct???

Here's the original crank. Just had the journals all polished.

Main journals:
1-2.4994
2-2.4993
3-2.4992
4-2.4994

Rod journals
1-2.2486
2-2.2486
3-2.2487
4-2.2485
5-2.2486
6-2.2485

Can I assume from these measurements that I can order "standard size" bearings for the mains and rods???

I haven't het measured the rod big ends for out of round but I'm betting they'll also be OK.

My first order will have to be main, rod and cam bearings. Then I'll have to find a set of block plugs.


ADVICE welcomed!!

I wouldnt hone anything. Id just put the same pistons back in the same holes. You should need std bearings. If you threw the rings out then id have it honed in a honing machine just to give the new rings something to seal on. No ball hones

 

[TurboDave]

What kind of hone are you refering to? Wont remove too much material will it?

Old rings are gone so I'll need new.

 

[turbodave231]

I'm with Bison.......stay away from the dingle-ball hone and get your honing done by someone with a real honing machine.

Look for someone with a Sunnen SV-10 or old school CK-10

You won't take a measureable amount out of the cylinder and you'll end up with a better ring seal.

Dave

 

[TurboDave]

I'm with Bison.......stay away from the dingle-ball hone and get your honing done by someone with a real honing machine.

Look for someone with a Sunnen SV-10 or old school CK-10

You won't take a measureable amount out of the cylinder and you'll end up with a better ring seal.

Dave

Thanks a ton guys!! I'll do that.

Turbodave231, you going to be at BG this year? I'd like to meet up with you.

Several other people I'd like to meet too.