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Really Bad Turbo Lag

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Ok I will check TC stall and post everything everyone has asked. Thanks everyone so much.
 
I run the same turbo there should be 0 lag or very little mine fills a lot like a stocker just more kick you should be able to build 5-8 pounds of boost on the line with foot brake thus leaving under boost and your boost should increase with no lag or hesitation in that situation mine will just blow the street tires off with hard smoke.at 0 boost leaving off the line it fills like i kicked passing gear when the turbo hits I run about the same boost as you maybe 2 lbs more I expect a exhaust leek or puck not sealing your 60 foot time before was not bad at all
 
How are you trying to build boost? Are you flooring it or slowly pressing the accelerator down part way or ???

ks
 
I recently had the same problem with boost lagg. Rebuilt my external waste gate and never had a problem boost launching again.


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So TPS is set to .42 the stall was at 2100rpms at 0 psi on foot brake. Ended up finding that my drivers side header is cracked pulling it off this week to weld it up. Opinions on if 2100 rpm is good or bad for the turbo I have. TE-44 seems like its not enough converter.
 
The TE-44 should be good with a stock converter. I would install a solid motor mount on the drivers side while you have the header off if you don't have one. you may crack it again with out one....... or both would be better!

Was the waste gate operating smooth?
 
So TPS is set to .42 the stall was at 2100rpms at 0 psi on foot brake. Ended up finding that my drivers side header is cracked pulling it off this week to weld it up. Opinions on if 2100 rpm is good or bad for the turbo I have. TE-44 seems like its not enough converter.


My stock TC would stall at 2200 rpm at 0-1psi and still wasn't enough for my TE44. On the highway it was fine, but not a launch. That driver side header crack will hold you back on launch and going up hills with the TC locked.

A trick I've used for the header is to get it hot, then weld it, then let it cool. The crack will open up again when it cools. Repeat until it doesn't open up when cooled. Mine lasted four hard years like that and now finally needs to be redone again.

The TE-44 should be good with a stock converter. I would install a solid motor mount on the drivers side while you have the header off if you don't have one. you may crack it again with out one....... or both would be better!

Was the waste gate operating smooth?


Not true unless you have a garret exhaust housing on it. The precision housing needs more stall.

My current TC stalls at 2700 rpm 0-1psi and makes my TE44 spool like mad; probably more than I need but I was planning for the future when I got it.

A solid driver side motor mount is nice and a lot better solution than a tie down strap. You are good with poly driver and a good stock pass side mount up to about 500rwhp so save your pennies unless you are planning on surpassing that soon.
 
My bad, I would never expect the TE44 to need that much stall. It is advertised as good with stock converter.
Thanks for the input, I have learned something here. Is that a Precision .63 Exh housing?
 
My bad, I would never expect the TE44 to need that much stall. It is advertised as good with stock converter.
Thanks for the input, I have learned something here. Is that a Precision .63 Exh housing?


Correct, precision .63. The garret .63 spools much better but there are a few ponies in the precision housing if you run it all out...;)

And my TE44 doesn't need the stall I have. I think 2400 would be good but I have no experience between stock and the 2700 now.
 
Wastegate is working great. So from what you are saying I should solid motor mount the car and put a bigger stall in it right?
 
Wastegate is working great. So from what you are saying I should solid motor mount the car and put a bigger stall in it right?


Fix any exhaust leaks first and make sure your tune is lean and mean down low in 1st. If that doesn't work then yes, you need more stall.
 
Ok I am fixing the header Wednesday. Then taking it to the track again Friday and I will tune it at the track watching the scan master. Thank you very much for the info
 
Cool. You may be surprised how good it is wit the exhaust fixed. :) Let us know.
 
Oh I forgot, I noticed when I had my car on the lift the other night that the converter gets really hot and stays hot for hrs after the car has been moved. Is that normal? I drove the car about 7 miles and put it on the lift and about 3 hrs later the TC was still hot enough you didn't want to hold your hand on it. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and if its normal. Fluid is full. It's synthetic and tranny and converter have less than 4,000 miles on them.
 
Oh I forgot, I noticed when I had my car on the lift the other night that the converter gets really hot and stays hot for hrs after the car has been moved. Is that normal? I drove the car about 7 miles and put it on the lift and about 3 hrs later the TC was still hot enough you didn't want to hold your hand on it. Just wondering if anyone has seen this before and if its normal. Fluid is full. It's synthetic and tranny and converter have less than 4,000 miles on them.


IDK, I've never checked mine but I imagine it stays hot for a while full of hot fluid and that close to the engine with little airflow.
 
Yeah I just wasn't sure. The oil pan was cold to the touch and engine but the converter was still really hot. I know the tranny fluid going through the converter gets really hot since its under a lot of psi during operation compared to engine oil. Just wasn't sure.
 
Brake boosting puts s hell of a strain on the converter. They get very hot especially if you are doing hot laps. Do not stage for too long. Bad things happen like crank thrust from converter ballooning.

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