Rear main seal replaced

[griz_83ho]

Never done one on a turbo buick so wanting to get any tips, etc. to help get it done. It's on the "work in progress" t type I bought a years or so ago. Questions are what is the best kind to use? I'm removing the motor from the car to do it so I guess just tips, etc. motor had been built, nothing crazy I'm sure but it runs super strong and has been pushing 20 -21 pounds of boost. At least that's what registering on the gauge. Thanks in advance

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

You do not have to remove the engine from the car to do the rear main , Fel Pro 2 piece seal works and I like a cork oil pan gasket as to the rubber type , if you pull the engine out it will be a piece of cake .

 

[griz_83ho]

How bad is it to do with leaving the motor in the car?

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

How bad is it to do with leaving the motor in the car?

Not that bad at all and if you a lift it even make the job plain simple as not laying on your back , the oil pan will drop right out with out jacking the motor up any .

 

[GNONYX]

How are you with hand tools and are you also mechanical incline?

 

[griz_83ho]

I'm no master mechanic by any means. Built a couple small blocks and do all my own wrenching on my toys. Just never 100% dug into the internals of one of these turbo motors. At this point in set on pulling the motor to make life easier and I don't want to risk screwing something else up.

 

[griz_83ho]

I know a motor is a motor but just get a little edgy when playing with something new

 

[DavidM]

@Koshe just did his. Maybe he can give feedback.

 

[Jay J]

How many miles on it? If it needs more than a seal, doing it on an engine stand is MUCH easier.

 

[griz_83ho]

We'll I bought this car off a guy a little over a year ago and he had everything done to the car. He sold it to me after it sat for 6 or 7 years because they just finished rebuilding the motor and trans and he drove it one say and after he got on it it started having white smoke come out from under it. He said the motor had no more than. A thousand miles on it. He said it was bored .30 and was running speed pro forged pistons. That's about all he could remember, forgot specs on the cam and how much head work. Basically what it is doing is is smoking after you get on it a little and when you stop oil is hitting the crossover pipe causing smoke and the smell. I just assumed it was a rear main

 

[TurboTdr3.8]

Might need to a health check on the engine as a cylinder leak down test to check on all the cylinders and see how it`s a doing . Harbor Freight has them testers real cheap or maybe someone will let you borrow one .

 

[HighMileage]

Are there any puddles of oil under the rear main? When mine leaked,it dripped once every 5 seconds at idle.

My leak started the same day the new,larger turbo was put on and boost was increased.

I didn't have enough crankcase vent capability and blew the seal on the first blast.

The only breather I had was a small KN on the front of the pass-side valve cover. I thought the factory oil fill cap was a breather also. ...until I looked under the cap. Solid.

Big breather there now. New neoprene seal. Dry as a bone.

The seal was done with the engine in. The pan dropped right out. Had to change the pickup tube because it was partially clogged.

Mine was doing the exact smoking thing yours is doing. Nothing now.

Do you notice specks of oil on the back bumper?

 

[hiboom]

Hell I don't even pull the motor to put bearing in,everything is so easy to get to ! easier on a lift but plenty doable on your back . I like the silicone on the sides instead or the hard rubber pieces I let it set overnight before starting the engine when using it. there a write up one here somewhere that real good reading

 

[griz_83ho]

Ok so in confused as hell. Oil level is perfect still and looking underneath the car the only thing there is a puddle of is tranny fluid from the front of the tranny. Is this what is leaking? And as is run harder leaks more causing smoke?

 

[hiboom]

could be front transmission seal and the torque converter is slinging it on the cross over ?

 

[TexasT]

Ok so in confused as hell. Oil level is perfect still and looking underneath the car the only thing there is a puddle of is tranny fluid from the front of the tranny. Is this what is leaking? And as is run harder leaks more causing smoke?

Sounds like a good possibility. You might pull the inspection cover and look at it. Not a hard thing either. Pull drive shaft, unbolt converter, slide trans back or out and pull converter. Pop old seal out, and new seal in. Maybe a seal retainer if you like.

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[GNONYX]

I did mine in my garage, didn't know how to do it, but I did read a lot and ask many questions, and most important of all is patience, patience, and more patience.
As indicated I would do a cylinder leak down test to check on all the cylinders
You can also drop the flywheel inspection cover and see if oil is present.
The unknown on your part is the previous owner may have or not did the timing chain, and replace the nylon cam sprocket.
If you still think you need to replace the rear end seal then here are some things to read.
You don't have to remove the engine, nor you don't have to lift the engine in order to remove the oil pan.

You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made and not ripped, just make sure it's clean on both sides.

Here are some site on how to replace the rear end seal, but keep in mind the pictures showing is for a TTA and not an GN, and you don't have to lift the motor in order to remove the oil pan cover. Most of the info is for a TTA, but it gives you some ideas.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
http://home.comcast.net/~tta1456/rearmain.htm

This is some info to start your engine journey, and Definitely ask questions when in doubt

There will be many questions you will be asking as you go along with the procedure of removing and installing the new parts.
Many will chime as to their way of priming the oil pump for oil pressure; this is my way if you choice to do so:
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653

And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

 

[GNONYX]

Did realize you claimed it might be the transmission front seal causing the leak, if not then my previous thread is what you need to look into.

 

[bishir]

I did mine in my garage, didn't know how to do it, but I did read a lot and ask many questions, and most important of all is patience, patience, and more patience.
As indicated I would do a cylinder leak down test to check on all the cylinders
You can also drop the flywheel inspection cover and see if oil is present.
The unknown on your part is the previous owner may have or not did the timing chain, and replace the nylon cam sprocket.
If you still think you need to replace the rear end seal then here are some things to read.
You don't have to remove the engine, nor you don't have to lift the engine in order to remove the oil pan.

You might not have to get another oil pan gasket if your is rubber made and not ripped, just make sure it's clean on both sides.

Here are some site on how to replace the rear end seal, but keep in mind the pictures showing is for a TTA and not an GN, and you don't have to lift the motor in order to remove the oil pan cover. Most of the info is for a TTA, but it gives you some ideas.

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/rearmain.html
http://home.comcast.net/~tta1456/rearmain.htm

This is some info to start your engine journey, and Definitely ask questions when in doubt

There will be many questions you will be asking as you go along with the procedure of removing and installing the new parts.
Many will chime as to their way of priming the oil pump for oil pressure; this is my way if you choice to do so:
First and most important disconnect the orange wire behind the battery, and you must have an oil pressure gauge in order to make sure you do built up oil pressure before you reconnect the orange wire for start up.

I didn't pack the oil pump with Vaseline as most do
I first filled the oil filter as much as I can and then put 3 quarts oil in oil pan , then I remove the lower oil cooler from the radiator taped it against some pipe so the oil cooler is vertical position. Then place a small funnel inside the oil cooler hose, you will need a Chevy oil pump prime tool and place it inside the Cam Sensor hole; make sure the tool slot is fitted on the oil pump shaft. DO NOT start the engine, if your oil pressure gauge is electric then just turn the key to the "ON POSITION" , and have someone inside the car telling you that you have oil pressure. Attach the cordless drill machine to prime tool and run it at CCW position, at the same time fill the oil cooler hose with about 1-1/2-2 quarts of motor oil, or until you have oil pressure present. Once you have oil pressure, re-install the oil cooler hose back, set the cordless drill machine to CW until the other person inside the car tells you that you oil pressure on the gauge. Remove prime tool rotate crank shaft to new marking of 25* after TDC install the Cam Sensor as per Casper's Instruction.

http://www.casperselectronics.com/store2/product_info.php?cPath=22&products_id=653

And it you don't have a Casper Cam Sensor Tool then you use this read up.
http://www.vortexbuicks-etc.com/cam_sensor.htm

This should be a sticky.

 

[GNONYX]

One sticky thing for sure if the unknown differences between transmission fluid and engine oil