Rear Mounted Tank

[EclipseTurbo]

Re: tanks

Originally posted by Lee Thompson
The webb site I posted has all different size tanks --spin on easy fill top-- heavy plastic construction---and again CHEAP!!!!
Since I use 12-14 oz. per run I need more than .5 gal. tank. Who drives on the street with out boosting up? With a .5 gal. tank, I would be checking the tank @ every stoplite

Hey, how did you run a feed to your pump with this?

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Regarding lines, measure exactly how much, and then go custom order the length from mcmaster.com. It's stainless braided, teflon lined, like the earls racing one but have brass ends.

My DSM used 13 feet, 1/4 I.D (An4 size) and cost $40.. why bother with rubber hose.. it's much safer and 1 less thing to worry like rubber particles flaking off inside the line.

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by EclipseTurbo
Razor, do you have anything that is 1-2 gallon, and have a low level warning? I can figure the the mounting

Or option B, big enough to fit my hand in there to install a low level sensor.

I am relying so much on methanol I really need to know if the level is low.

I am using a stainless steel canister right now but the top is not real air tight. The methanol spill out a bit when I go pass bumps.

Thinking of a 2.5 gallon SS keg but the cap has rubber seal.

Another requirement is a bottom nipple for the feedline, I don't want to draw it from the top.

Let me know what you got

The TTA tank is 1.5 gallons and has a low level sender. Problem is its shape is ackward(sp) , whereas its designed to go over a contoured surface. Nice thing is the nipple on it is 3/8 and at the very bottom.

I'll see what else I can dig up..

Julio

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Do you have a picture of this on your site? I may be able to work with its shape. Zip ties and giant hose clamps are man's best friend

How is the sealing of the top cap, is it water tight or air tight?

Thanks

 

[Razor]

Its pretty air tight..not 100%..I havent had any issues with leaks..

Whats water ?

TTA Overflow w/sender

Size is 10x9x8 high. There is a molded in stud on the bottom that a standoff could be added to stabilize it..

I'll see what else I can come up with..

 

[Razor]

And....

I just ordered a 2 gallon tank today to play with. Its size is approx 6x12 x 8 inches high, brab on bottom.. pixs soon if it works out..

Yummm

 

[EclipseTurbo]

I do feel a taller design is better than a pancake style.

because near the bottom you don't slush around as much as feed air into the pump.

But most important is that I have a sender tho!

 

[EclipseTurbo]

$20 and it has low level sender? Do you have the harness that plug to it so I can just add the wires?

 

[Razor]

Got one

2 Gallon tank

2 gallon, has screen on nipple, viton rubber seal inside cap, use with or without base. Also located methanol compatible foam to prevent sloshing/aeration. Foam will last a year.. Low alky sender available on it as well..

No foam pixs yet.. next week sometime it should arrive.

Sorry bout the pixs..my camera was having a bad day But hopefully ruler shows size involved. Shurflo may be mounted on lower portion with a little help(cutting).

Thx..

Wait till ya see the Jaz pro stock 3 gallon setup i'm making for a 9 second Syclone..shhh..

 

[Razor]

Originally posted by EclipseTurbo
$20 and it has low level sender? Do you have the harness that plug to it so I can just add the wires?

Dont have pricing till Monday..but its going to me more than $20.00. The low senders by themselves cost more than that. Just an FYI

Update soon.

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Got the pricing yet?

Also, where do race cars that run on methanol get their fuel cell from? They run a small cell like 3 gallons. But typical fuel cell have aluminum fittings.

 

[Razor]

J., no price yet.. theyre trying to figure how much to charge for it.. I know, I know..pretty weird. I did find methanol compatible foam.. actually got a block of it, specifically made for methanol.. so the liquid in the tank doesnt slosh around ..as much. Its 8x8x4

The 1 and 3 gallon fuel cells are methanol compatible, the problem is getting a low level sensor for those. The aluminum fittings per JAZ are methanol compatible since theyre anodized. Problem is that using anodized fittings requires a different thread pitch than SAE flare fittings. So hoses and such have to be treated differently....and theyre $$$ . As a matter of fact..currently i'm in the process of making a kit for a 9 second Syclone, 3 gallon Jaz, mounting brackets, hoses, fittings etc.. doing some unique shhh shhh stuff on it The Jaz fuel cell is not cheap by any means. Those things are approx 130 + brackets, fittings, etc..

I'll update on the 2 gallon tank as soon as I hear something back.. For an application like yours..it would be what you needed. I can mount a low level sender in this one, but before I chop a hole into it.. they have to set a price

Cheers

Julio

 

[EclipseTurbo]

I don't understand what the foam is for, is it to make the fluild stay more stable while the car moves?

You said the foam lasts a year, does it dissolve or something and go into the injection system?

I know the fittings are anodized but sometimes things get scratched up exposing the bare aluminum. They are AN 37 degree fittings which will go right on the JIC fittings you can get from mcmaster carr, which is also 37 degee flare.

A typical fuel cell cap also have a aluminum ring or aluminum on the cap itself.

on the other hand I have put a piece of aluminum in methanol for over a day and it didn't melt or anything, I didn't see a difference and I think the worse it will happen is some pitting on the surface.

 

[Razor]

I just go by what the manufaturer of the cell says.. what can I say, my feelings were the same as yours. I typically call the MFG and ask.. again, when there are no options, you have to do what you have to do.

The foam says on the outside of the package "Methanol Foam", the MFG recommends replacing it once a year. I havent tested it yet, so dont know. Most race cars get theyre fuel systems torn down once a year. And its for slosh control, like if you were cornering hard, or accellerating in a very fast straight line . Hey its why race car fuel cells have them. Either put baffles, or put foam.

My hose shop keeps the fittings separate, the SAE and JIC tho may work, I dont know about using dis-similar metals on fittings. I would say aluminum fitting on one end of the hose, and brass on the other. Thats an option. On the kit i'm doing, all anodized from cell to pump, all brass from pump to nozzle.

example, my car has a dual line using an NOS Y adapter aluminum anodized, yet I used brass fittings on it without issue. What can I say..

 

[EclipseTurbo]

Any updates?

Low sender installed? has the cap and sender didn't melted in the methanol yet?

 

[turbogto]

It won't melt. You will get the dreaded "white rust" after a few weeks/months. It won't hurt anything for a while, then it will eventually start to flake off and get into everything.

Methanol is hygroscopic. It absorbs water which is what does the dirty work.

I ran methanol in a Holley for a while and took it apart after a month or so. The white rust was everywhere, but worst on the upper part of the bowl and metering block where it got sloshed but not immersed.

Check this link for details:

http://www.ctracing.com/alcohol.htm

 

[Razor]

Tada.. 2 gallon tank, bottom has 3/8 nipple w/stainless screen, viton tubber in car, and a low alky sender to boot has provisions for 4 screws to hold it down. And the cap is large enough whereas methanol foam can be used to control sloshing.

2 gallon tank

Call for pricing.. its now available.

 

[Dubwho]

I have an idea to prime the trunk mounted pump, but this might be too pricey. Put a tee fitting on top of the the alky nozzle with the line from pump going in one side and a high flow, over sized solenoid on the other. Mount a switch in the car and wire in series with a hobbs switch to close at say 5 psi boost. Wire the switch to open the solenoid and start the pump. Now get in the car and fire it up. Flip the switch and get the engine to produce 5 psi of boost for a second. The pump should start and most of the alky should flow out the solenoid (which should have either a return line to the tank or open line hanging out the bottom of the car). Now flip the switch off and the solenoid closes/pump stops. Nothing should have flowed out the injector nozzle, since there is more pressure there then outside of the solenoid. This would have to be done whenever the car sat for a long time. There is nothing like a check valve inline with the nozzle to hinder its flow as Julio suggested.

Of course you would have to setup an isolation relay so that when you do send power to the pump for normal spraying, it doesn't also send back power to the solenoid opening it!

Whatcha think?

 

[Dubwho]

Idea #2: You could also make a true return style system, but I don't know if this would fly. Install just a 5 psi hobbs switch, the tee, solenoid and line from the solenoid back to the tank. No switch. The 5 psi will now be the only thing turning your pump on and off. Your normal controller will now run only the solenoid. When the controller is saying don't spray, the solenoid should stay open and when it says spray, the solenoid closes. Problem is if something goes wrong, drowned motor.

The idea is too start the pump working early at each acceleration (5 psi) and let the boost pressure hold back the injection, since the alky would rather flow back to the tank with the solenoid open. Now the solenoid closes as the controller tells it and all the alky is injected. A variable solenoid might work well with a variable controller! Hopefully you allow the lines to purge between 5 psi and the controller setting before you really need the stuff.

 

[Razor]

Dubwho, your thinking. Actually I did a setup whereas the pump was in the front of the vehicle in the engine compartment and the tank in the rear. Using 3/8 hose for a feed, and -4 hose for pressure. See if you think about it, old cars with mechanical fuel pumps had no issues running like this, obviously have the pump lower than the tank up front, once the system is primed, its a non issue. Now doing things the other way around, whereas your mounting the pump in the rear of the vehicle.. then is where issues can arise. So to me pressure hose length is more of an issue than feed hose. We'll see how that goes. That 3/8 braided hose $$$ adds up quick

On the above vehicle I also added a VCS switch triggered of off TPS, so if the TPS went past 4volts(adj) it would start the priming process with the progressive controller. In the event it wasnt in boost yet.

On this truck(Syclone), I felt getting alky in as soon as possible was needed. T76 turbo, 96 lb inj, FAST, 320 cfm heads, bla bla bla .. pixs up soon of that install.. Used a Jazz 3 gallon fuel cell.

BTW, thats why I make a progressive to start the spraying at 3 PSI boost .. I dont like solenoids.. theyre great until they fail. Only suggest using them when absolutely necessary.

Julio