Have the machine shop keep bearing clearances at .0017"-.0019". If they are .0025" or more, then hot idle oil pressure will suffer. Ring end gaps NEED to be on the high side. No loss of power if they are .010" too big, but if too tight, they can pull the top of the piston off. Ring end gaps vary based on piston material and final bore size, but set them a few thou. bigger than they reccomend. Roller cam is a must. Oil pump thrust clerance needs to be real tight, too. Shoot for .0005"-.0015". Time consuming to get the pump clearances right. Tap the front of the block for scew in oil gallery plugs (available from TA) Crank thust surfaces need to be hand polished if the crank grinder "touches" the thrust surface.(they usually do to "true it") Use 500, 600, then 1000-1500 grit paper to polish the surface to a near mirror. If you leave the thrust surface of the crank as-is after grinding, it WILL eat the thrust bearing out of the engine. Look closely and you will see that it looks like a saw blade. Neoprene front AND rear main seals. ARP head bolts. Stock rod and main bolts are OK for 550HP or less. Port the heads, even if just a pocket port job. (money well spent.) THat covers the basics, but the details make or break the whole thing. Like others have said, have all the work done by someone that has done ALOT of turbo Buicks. THe average machine shop will argue with you about the bearing clearances. If they tell you that they are too tight, walk away......FAST! Hope this helps.
