Recommended stall with this turbo and housing

["Turbo-T"]

Ed you are so very correct.

I can punch it from a dead stop and it's a pooch for a few seconds until the turbo spools up, then it'll send the rear sideways a little and sheik the tires a little before hitting 2nd. But you are right, it doesn't boil the hides on a dead stop.

My concern was if the tighter converter is playing a role in the 60 fts. forzfed I do believe I may be a bit on the rich side on launch, and next time at the track I'll have my laptop with me (just bought my powerlogger a few months ago) and see what she's doing and maybe pull some fuel if needed on 1st gear. But all in all i was feeling maybe the converter was the bigger culprit.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

I'm not aware of any stock D5 converter footbraking over 5psi, if you're seeing 10psi that would say to me it's a restall.

The stocker isn't efficient when unlocked, is heavy and doesn't really couple as well as the aftermarket converters so it's really a budget thing IMO. Otherwise it's gone on any aftermarket turbo upgrade and the improvement is very noticeable.

I'd call whichever converter company you're looking to go with, they'll help you out but make sure you know your current 0psi footbrake stall, that's important in helping you out.

And ditch the 215's, those are killing every mod you've done and will do to you Buick. At least some 275/50 Nittos to put the power to the ground.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Actually the last time I tried foot braking I think I got 7-8 psi of boost. That was really mashing on it and trying to keep it from going thru the beams. I also had the old powermaster at that time. Have yet to try with the hydroboost which I feel clamps better.

I don't run 215's out back at the track. I have a pair of 275/50 Mickey Thompsons I use for the drag strip. I do run 215/65's on the street.

 

[forzfed]

I'm not aware of any stock D5 converter footbraking over 5psi, if you're seeing 10psi that would say to me it's a restall.

If you have everything setup right you should always see more than 5psi. My 9000 mile car would hold 15psi on the foot brake with an adjustment of the rear brakes. Once I fixed the leaks on my other car it to saw 15psi with stock turbo. Once I replaced the stock turbo with a TE-44, the best I saw was 10psi on the foot brake. Put a high stall in and if you can hold boost you'd see 20psi.

 

[Pronto]

Higher boost launch with traction really brings the 60' down.

 

[GNVYUS 1]

Huh, when I had the stock D5 I went through the rears smoking up and did the brake mods, then it still only went to 5psi on the TA49 and others were seeing the same. This is probably the 1st time in all these years that I've heard a stock D5 building more than 5psi of boost on a footbrake. I guess you guys are making more TQ than I was but that's the key to stalling so it's definitely possible.

 

[we4Mateo]

I def couldn't get more than 5psi out of my stock D5 with the TE44 and other mods below from the footbrake, or any brake. I even leaned out first in the chip and it never changed. The vig is limitless psi on the footbrake now, well actually the limit is the brakes. The 44 with a converter is BBC instant power though And I will be running stickier tires on the street, or an HR bar, or both...these damn cars!

 

[forzfed]

My high milage car has 60k on it, and my low milage one has 14k on it. Could be the fact that there isn't that many miles on my cars. It's night and day between the both of them. My low milage one weighs a lot less, will out 60ft my other car and is an excellent example of a good running TB.

 

["Turbo-T"]

I ran the blue tops, stock D5, 100 oct TT chip, GT6131 27lbs of boost, Precision stock location and 28" tire to 11.7 @113.8 with a 1.6 60' converter unlocked. Duty cycle was about 80%. No alky. You should be able to run the TE60 to high elevens with the 36s and alky. You should start with 26" drag radials, launch at about 6-8lbs and you should be around 110-112mph with the right tune. When you mph gets higher go to a taller tire.
A simple Pat's 2800 stall 12" would do you fine.

Currently sitting at 109 trap speed, that was with a 26" tall tire in the rear. Also any reason to go with a 12 inch converter as opposed to a 10 inch converter?

I've got a TE-62 with a 3400 converter and if I nail it from a stop at idle, it won't even chirp my MT 275-60 DR........but 8-10 feet out the tires will smoke as long as I stay on the gas half way thru 3rd gear!!!

That's interesting. I read your turbo needs a 2800-3200 stall converter. You have a 3400 and you still have turbo lag?

Let me ask this then....if one has a matching converter to the cam and turbo on his TR, will there be any turbo lag from a dead stop at all?

 

[Pronto]

For me, I tried a PTC 10" and didn't like the feel at all. It stalled at the right speed and coupled pretty good at the top end but was too mushy around town. Got to a point where I was regetting it. Switched to a Pat's 12". Again the stall was right on but it's not mushy at all, felt more like stock. Nother bonus is they are cheaper.

 

[Grumpy]

For me, I tried a PTC 10" and didn't like the feel at all. It stalled at the right speed and coupled pretty good at the top end but was too mushy around town. Got to a point where I was regetting it. Switched to a Pat's 12". Again the stall was right on but it's not mushy at all, felt more like stock. Nother bonus is they are cheaper.

Pats makes a great converter. Just took out a non lock up out of my wagon an went to a Pat's 12" to. Although the D5 is NO slouch either. MAYBE the D5 is a dog for some because of the tune up :biggrin:

 

[Pronto]

Ya, the D5 was good too. I just needed a few more rpm for spooling.

 

[RIFF RAFF]

The experts

Have made a chart its at percision turbos site .the people that built your turbo have matched it with the minimum of 2800 stall .i would say they are right .. I was using the d5 now im using a ptc 2800-3000 and my car really woke up .runs faster than before with less effort .i even tried a restalled d5 at 2600 and still had lag .i would not go back to a d5 if you payed me ...

 

[Reggie West]

Here is the thing about a 9 inch converter. First it is 3 inches smaller in diameter, so less rotating mass. That means it naturally spins faster. The turbo will also spin up or spool faster.

With a higher stall speed you can foot brake the motor up to higher rpms before you launch the car. This allows you to leave the line at a set level of boost and the looser converter will allow the motor to stay in boost when you are trying to move 3400 pounds off the line.

You do lose lockup in 4th gear with a 9 inch. A 9/11 converter keeps that function if you want it. It will depend on what you are trying to do.

I would think a 2800 stall 9 inch will work fine for your combo. There is always some lag with any converter. The amount of lag with a 9 inch is far less than a D5. That is true from a dead stop or downshifting at 50.

The .63 housing is really good for street and strip. It will allow you to max out
the combo you have.

You will not max out that turbo until you are running 24 to 25 psi and that should be your goal with any turbo, max out what you have before you go bigger.
The housing

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx, was wondering if there's any pros to not having a lock up converter.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Thanx, was wondering if there's any pros to not having a lock up converter.

I don't lock my converter at the track, But love cruising at 2K RPM at 70 Mph on the highway.

 

[bison]

Thanx, was wondering if there's any pros to not having a lock up converter.

Your car will et better with a proper non lock unit. A big pro if youre a serious racer