Recommended stall with this turbo and housing

["Turbo-T"]

I have a TE-60 turbo with a .63 housing. If I recall correctly a TE-60 needed around a 3000 stall but I've also read a .63 housing will allow it to spool quicker with a stock D5 converter, which is what I have. I also have the typical BRF trans and 3.42 gears.

I'm wondering if I should up my stall to a higher stall even though the TE-60 has the .63 housing?

As of now, it does have some lag to it if you punch it from a dead stop however once it gets going it manages to just haze the rear 215/65R15 radials to where they just shriek on the pavement. In other words, you can't punch it from a dead stop and send the tires up in smoke, which is a good thing but am I leaving anything on the table?
Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Blazer406]

I would definately say you would want a higher stall converter to get the most out of the TE60. I would say a 3000-3200 would be a fairly good match.

 

[Dabigguy]

You need at least a 3000 stall and at least 42# injectors for that turbo.

At idle, these V-6's only make about 100hp or so, which isn't enough to spin the tiny 215 tires, so when you nail the gas from idle you aren't making enough HP to spin the tires. When you add boost, you add horsepower. The more boost you have, the more horsepower you make.

I've got a TE-62 with a 3400 converter and if I nail it from a stop at idle, it won't even chirp my MT 275-60 DR........but 8-10 feet out the tires will smoke as long as I stay on the gas half way thru 3rd gear!!! If you only have 215 rear tires, your car will be scary under boost with that turbo and a 3000 converter. It should spin those tires at 50mph!!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks...why do you say I need #42 injectors? I'm being told the current #36 I have are sufficient.

As for the off idle tire burn...that's what I was thinking too....I've heard some say off the line there's a slight amount of lag then the turbo spools up and it's bye bye they go, and others claim if they punched it from a dead stop the tires would immediately go up in smoke.

On mine you punch it from a dead stop it's like a slug...for about an actual second...then the turbo spools up and the rear you can feel shift a little sideways while the tires shriek....but there's no tire smoke or tire marks.

But now I've also heard the .63 housing is supposed to make it spool faster too?

Also if I may ask what would the symptoms be if I were trying to foot brake launch at the track with this turbo and it's .63 housing on a D5 converter?

Furthermore, would running a D5 converter with this turbo make any difference in a trap speed at the track as opposed to using the actual correct converter?

 

[Dabigguy]

Peak power comes from a combination of your engine parts. The "optimum" performance is obtained by having the proper combination of cam, IC, injectors, converter, rear end gears, chip, suspension, tires, launching technique.......You can have all the right engine parts, but not have the right tires and not perform as well as someone with a lot less. Having a big turbo without the matching converter would have the same results as putting a big cam in a SB Chevy with no converter and 2.73 gears......it will be a slug off the line.

With a larger turbo, you ingest more air into the engine and to make more power you need more fuel. You MAY be able to get by with the 36# injectors, but you will be close to 100% duty cycle and you could lean out and blow your engine up.

Trap speeds will be close, depending on the new converter and if you lock the converter on the top end.

The symptoms would be much the same as trying to launch your car as it is now at idle as opposed to launching your car at 2500 rpms....it would be a dog for the first second or so and then it would pick up. If you have the proper converter, you'll have almost no turbo lag and almost instant tire frying power!!!

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks...I understand about the whole lean thing...I've inquired about my blue tops in the past....some have pointed out that since I'm also running alky I'm ok.

I've also either been told or read that blue tops were good for a car up to 110 mph trap speed. Mine currently sits at 109 mph, though with a bigger converter I was wondering if the trap speed would go up...I see you mentioned it would be close.

So is the .63 housing just a band-aid for a car w/a stock converter?

 

[Dabigguy]

I honestly am not educated enough on this subject to say the housing would or would not work. You'll need one of the elders to chime in on that one.
Turbocharger Specifications

 

[salvageV6]

You should be okay with bluetops and alky. up to 114 mph or so, watching the fuel pressure and duty cycle is a must near 100% d.c.'s.

High to mid 11's depending upon the hook.

I have a PTE51 with same housing, it's a similar turbo, and the Vigilante single disk 0 pump which I call a 3000 stall works perfectly and I lock it up around 80mph in 3rd gear at the track.

Limetop Lightning 42lb. injectors and SMC alky. with staged dual nozzles the old EFI pump kit. Turn on is 10psi. second nozzle opens at 18psi.

23/24 psi. boost 23/21* timing Eric's standard old 5.6 alky. chip.

6 passes to the 11's on pump and alky. at 114mph.

You might get away with a re-stalled red, not orange stripe, stock converter.

Or any lockup or non-lockup smaller diameter converters in the 3K range.

Buy a good converter if you plan on keeping the combo. the same for a while, non-ballooning plates, properly brazed fins, good lockup disk, etc.

Just my .02.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

i am running the TE-60 with Garret OE .63 housing with a 9.5 3000 stall L/U and i love it.

I have a TE-60 turbo with a .63 housing. If I recall correctly a TE-60 needed around a 3000 stall but I've also read a .63 housing will allow it to spool quicker with a stock D5 converter, which is what I have. I also have the typical BRF trans and 3.42 gears.

I'm wondering if I should up my stall to a higher stall even though the TE-60 has the .63 housing?

As of now, it does have some lag to it if you punch it from a dead stop however once it gets going it manages to just haze the rear 215/65R15 radials to where they just shriek on the pavement. In other words, you can't punch it from a dead stop and send the tires up in smoke, which is a good thing but am I leaving anything on the table?
Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance.

 

[jurassic five 7]

The two turbine housing there are for a 3 bolt turbo are a .63 and .85

yes, keep the .63 or if you go with a .85 you'll have even more lag but yet will gain it in trap speed. Also, you can not get a smaller exhaust housing.

And no, it's not a 'band-aid' since you can only choose between the two. Dont worry about the exhaust.


If you want quicker spool up, then you should invest in a converter.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

The two turbine housing there are for a 3 bolt turbo are a .63 and .85

yes, keep the .63 or if you go with a .85 you'll have even more lag but yet will gain it in trap speed. Also, you can not get a smaller exhaust housing.

And no, it's not a 'band-aid' since you can only choose between the two. Dont worry about the exhaust.


If you want quicker spool up, then you should invest in a converter.

I thought (my mistake) that there was/is a OE garret .63 (resized to fit the TE-60) and the Precision .63 (that is huge)
the one on the left is the Precision housing

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanx fellas...another question....lets say I'm at the track, in the staging lanes, about to launch the car. Suppose I foot brake the car up to like 10 psi (where i believe the stock converter will allow it to spool to)....how much am I leaving on the table with the stock converter?

Also does having a stock D5 converter on a TE60 hurt 60 ft. times even if foot braking at 10 psi?

 

[Blazer406]

Thanx fellas...another question....lets say I'm at the track, in the staging lanes, about to launch the car. Suppose I foot brake the car up to like 10 psi (where i believe the stock converter will allow it to spool to)....how much am I leaving on the table with the stock converter?

Also does having a stock D5 converter on a TE60 hurt 60 ft. times even if foot braking at 10 psi?

If you get 10 psi on the footbrake... IMHO.... you aren't leaving much if any on the table. You will probably be leaving a rubber deposit on the track though :biggrin:

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

As you know i am as far from an EGGspert as you can get.

For ME 8 PSI on a 9.5 3000 stall converter was VERY VERY hard to hold.
I would have to guess that 10 PSI on a stock converter would be even harder But i am sure some have done it.

 

["Turbo-T"]

Thanks...reason I ask is my best was 12.61 @ 109 mph, the 60 ft. was 2.00 but it wasn't due to tire spin. Yet I've read people with a similar combo to mine with maybe a different converter that have ran a 12.00 at about the same mph. E.T. I believe is based off of 60 ft? That had me wondering if not having the right converter would affect the 60 ft, even on brake launch.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

from the little i understand
you want a loose converter down low to let you launch in/at as much boost as possible and at the same time it needs to be as tight as possible up top to keep you from running out of RPM.

If you can leave the line on a stock D5 @ 10 PSI i wouldn't change it unless there was something wrong with it????
that or is 10 psi too low of a launch at the track?? and the norm is something like 15 PSI????

Where are the dam experts????

Also like the old guy always says check your tune. As i got my tune better i started going faster and feeling the deference, at one point i my tune was fat as hell the car was a cow of the line even with the upgraded converter and other junk but once i finally started working on the tune it all started to come alive.

 

[Pronto]

I ran the blue tops, stock D5, 100 oct TT chip, GT6131 27lbs of boost, Precision stock location and 28" tire to 11.7 @113.8 with a 1.6 60' converter unlocked. Duty cycle was about 80%. No alky. You should be able to run the TE60 to high elevens with the 36s and alky. You should start with 26" drag radials, launch at about 6-8lbs and you should be around 110-112mph with the right tune. When you mph gets higher go to a taller tire.
A simple Pat's 2800 stall 12" would do you fine.

 

[Blazer406]

IMHO.... the problem arises when the converter is too tight to allow for the larger turbo to brake build boost. This makes for a slug until the boost gets to 6-8 psi.

IF the OP's converter/turbo combo will allow him to brake build 10 psi boost at the line....... IMHO..... it should be OK. It probably won't go a ton quicker with a converter change.

If I read it correctly, the OP doesn't know yet.... if it will infact build that much boost at the line.... so all this speculation might be all for nothing.

Take it to the track and let us know how it does....

Reality is for street driving.... a better matched converter will make the car feel a ton faster on the street....because you don't normally brake build boost when street driving..... and the higher stall will definately wake up a combo on the street.

 

[forzfed]

With 10psi launch, I'm thinking you might have other problems. Like small leaks, or running too rich down low.

With my low milage car, all stock with the exception of chip, afpr and tires, I went 12.79@107 with a 1.97 60ft through the stock exhaust. I was leaving with 2psi, anything more and my tires went up in smoke. I then put a high timing chip and borrowed a buddy's slicks and went 12.3@108 with a 1.67 60ft on a pretty warm day and letting it shift into OD, crossing the traps around 4400/4500 rpm on 20psi boost.

The car listed below ran a best of 1.75 60ft on the stock turbo, that is with 15yr old original injectors. On a cold day my low milage car would easily break into the 1.5x 60ft range if the best my other car did was 1.61.

 

[Ed Valvo]

IMO, the D5 works fine with a TE60 with the right chip. Still a drivable combo. It will give you a hint of lag off the line but prevent you from toasting the tires in 1st gear like a BBC. If you get a looser converter, you'll be upgrading to sticky tires in a hurry. Not such a bad thing though.