Relay Clicking-No Start non TR tech 95 Bonneville

[Blown&Injected]

Thanks for any ideas on this?

1995 Bonneville SE has an intermittent cut-out. Sometimes it will not restart and during those times I can hear the Fuel Pump Relay clicking - under/behind the glove box. I am going out to check the oil pressure switch but I am not so sure that will do it.

I also noticed the same clicking sound under the hood. It was the radiator fan relay - clicking like an old bathroom exhaust fan.

No SES light.

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

Need more information. Does it crank over OK and not start? If it won't crank over, check for voltage at the starter solenoid on the starter in the start position, might need a buddy to help you turn the key. If it cranks over fine, put a fuel pressure guage on it. If it cranks over fine and has fuel pressure in specification, check for no spark. Let us know and we can help.
From your rough description, sounds like a fuel problem, be sure your fuel filter is not clogged. Take it off and see if you can blow throught it. If good check fuel pressure when it's acting up.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Hi. Thanks for the help.

Everything is normal until the clicking so I believe it is some strange electric problem. The headlights do not even dim when cranking the engine over so I do not suspect a voltage/connection problem - at least not with the main power to the starter solenoid.

If the fuel pressure is not right, I am sure it is due to the relay not being properly signaled. I replaced the one that is clicking and it was listed as the fuel pump relay but it still clicks rapidly. I knew that would be too simple.

When running, the engine cut out happens so fast/abruptly that I believe it is losing spark. Even though it sounds like something is wrong with the fuel as the relay is making noise, a loss of fuel is not as sharp as the loss of spark.

 

[SFITurbo]

My 94 did the same thing. Die for no reason and start when it wanted to. I suspected the PASSKEY but found the module under the coils to be the culprit. (expensive) Car has over 220k miles and still runs like 20k (new owner is the neighbors grandson).

 

[TURBOTWIN2]

Check battery voltage, should be 12.6v key off and about 1.0v more running. Check and clean both the battery cable connection at the battery and the grounds coming off the battery. What's your fuel pressure?

 

[Blown&Injected]

There is good power - something is freaking out the relay - I can hear the fuel pump pulsing with the relay.

Not much to be found on the internet but some have mentioned something about a resister in the fuel pump harness ???

I would suspect the fuel pump except the power seems to blink out - not the entire cars power, just enough that the computer seems to blink out

 

[wile87]

if it happens when it's hot i would go with the module under the coils like sfiturbo said

 

[pdzz]

Check the busbar ground under the driver's seat for corrosion, or moisture. It is actually more towards the left front footwell area. JUst peel the rug up. It will be real obvious. Phil.

 

[Blown&Injected]

Did some looking and the ground buss on both sides of the car (under carpet near the door sills) are in great condition.

Battery connections looked...not new. They were very tight, I loosened them and re-tightened them, shaking the cables a bit. They seemed fine and the power to the car seems as good as can be: Starter spins/turns over the engine fast and no struggle, head lights, power windows and door locks = all powered up strong even when cranking the engine over.

Fuel Pressure: 46 psi, jumps to 54 psi when cranking the engine and then drops back to 46. Held at 46 psi for 10 minutes, then I removed the gauge...may have dropped 1 psi.

In-Line Spark Plug Tester shows fire on all three coils - only looked at one post on each coil.

Check Engine Light pulses with the tone of the fuel pump relay under the glove box.

This tells me the injectors are not firing.

So what should I be looking at now? If it were a crank or cam sensor, I would not think there would be spark.

Thanks.