Repeat procedure.

[WarWagon]

Oh yes installed!, I tune with the wideband. I have limited to no control over the ignition timing right now, I set the initial and get 4* retarded once I go WOT automatically. It's bad but don't monitor knock, I just keep the WOT timing low and don't go too crazy with boost. Right now the spark timing starts at 22* and ends up @ 18* WOT.
I recently retuned my fuel curve to give 12.3 AFR @ WOT instead of my old tune of 11.3 AFR @ WOT.

I do have everthing Except! an aftermarket distributor to go electronic ignition. I've got a Jacobs electronic ignition box, Jacobs Ultra coil and boost retard/rev limit box. I can probably hook up the retard/rev limit box to my HEI ignition and have it operating, but the rest of the stuff won't work together with my stock coil in cap HEI distributor.

 

[usetaboost]

are you running alky injection or e85?

 

[WarWagon]

are you running alky injection or e85?

Neither, 93 pump gas is the fuel.
But E85 is local as well as Turbo blue 112 and some other race gas 110 I think.

I can see some alky in the future for sure, but it's pump gas for now.

 

[usetaboost]

you can run the el cheapo setup for alky injection. Should help some. Maybe even an ebay front mount to keep things cheap

 

[WarWagon]

It's been some time since I've looked into the DIY Alky, I know I can do it but will probably get one of Razor's alky kits when I do. I've got a front mount intercooler installed, been running it for some time now. It was free so the price was good, '09 VW Passat Intercooler, it's pretty big(about the size of my radiator just 2" shorter) and flows/cools very well for what it is, aluminum core with plastic tanks, was 3" in/out but I had to make it 2 1/2" in/out and I run 3" charge piping with it.
Perhaps I should update my Sig about that car.

 

[usetaboost]

The cheapo alky kit is so cheap and easy, you should be embarrased for not using it or at least trying it.

 

[WarWagon]

The cheapo alky kit is so cheap and easy, you should be embarrased for not using it or at least's trying it.

I am actually a bit embarrassed for not going with it sooner than I plan to use it, But the car is struggling to properly put the power down now at times with the 93pumpgas ans 18.5psi. It will happen and I'll focus on one thing at a time. On another tangent though the car is running strong and I'm ready to go to the track, I don't think I can do anything else to help performance at this time besides adding my money, more or better parts and or more boost and race gas.

I'll be headed to Pittsburgh Raceway Park (PRP) on their Thursday, Friday or Saturday test and tunes the last week in July or one of the following weeks in August, I'll post the exact date in case anymore local members are going the same date. I have to drive the Regal to the track it's 96 miles one way and about 2 hours, closest 1/4mi track to my location.

 

[usetaboost]

You're missing out man! It's the cheapest power you'll add to it. Hell I'd run it with just the 18 psi. You'll feel a difference just from the cooling effect

 

[WarWagon]

Latest update before the track trip.

Ok so while on the quest to get the performance top-notch as it can get with what I have, Issues did arise with the latest addition of the Autometer Tach. I've been mostly watching other gauges and info and now that I'm concentrating on rpm I see events happening. First the WOT auto shifts in Drive are 3500rpms. I wasn't expecting to see that. I mean the car pulls good and runs well short shifting like that, It's not really a problem I drive on the street all the time. Secondly the RPM's and power fall off right before and during 4500 rpm's and higher if I can get any more revs out of it and some of that is associated with popping out of the exhaust. I know the stock cam is good for little more than that and I have Comp 980 valve springs but this problem was not similar to valve float. So I thought: What is till stock?
Well turns out most of everything is including the ignition. I started there Since removing the ECM driven 7pin HEI module years ago and replacing it with an original 4 pin vintage Hei Module out of my '75 Buick 350. Knowing that the very early module's like mine are limited to operating at 4 -4.5-5 amps max, It had too go although being a trooper in the 350 and the v6 it's time was now. So I do some research and purchase a PC Board style Procomp Pro Hei module rated with operating @ 7.5 amps like the MSD Heat and the Mallory Hyfire Hei modules. My very simple and basic EX-computer controlled dizzy will not accept the new module without some clearancing of the VR sensor shroud (yay it's aluminum). Ok the Procomp Hei module is now inside the Dizzy and I go to fire it up and it's like a new engine! Of course that's to be expected with any ignition upgrade. So how does it drive? It don't. Something is amiss in the Procomp Hei module, the engine is cutting out at 2000rpms and won't clean up. So now out comes the Procomp Pro hei module and it gets shelved. With little more research and an order later I've got an OEM style Pertronix Flame Thrower 4 pin Hei Race module and this one is rated for operating at 7.2 amps vs the original Flame Thrower 4 pin hei module that is rated at operating around 6 amps. The Pertronix 4 pin Hei module installs like the OEM 4 pin module only my Dizzy was made for a 7 pin hei module so it's not a direct bolt in. The VR sensor spade connectors are really small on the ECM controlled Dizzy vs the real 4 pin VR sensor spade connectors, so I split the male spade connectors on the Hei module so the narrow ECM version VR sensor spade connector slips positively on. I also bought a 50K volt in-cap Hei coil to compliment the new Hei module I just installed even though the coil is not here yet. So I light it up again with this Pertronix Hei module this time and it feels just like the power and response the Procomp Pro Hei was making but this module let the engine rev clean and well past 2000rpms where the Procomp Peetered out. A test drive reveals much snappier response and so far revving up too and beyond 4500 is not a problem with no popping out of the exhaust. So It's all been worth it soo far and I'm still running the OEM Hei in cap coil.
The pictures break down with the Procomp stuff first then the Pertronix stuff.

 

[charlief1]

If you'd asked I would've told you about the procomp parts and saved you some money Adam. They're junk, to put it nicely. I'd prefer to run the MSD unit but the Petronics unit is made by them so you kinda have an MSD unit.

 

[WarWagon]

That's why your the man Charlie, always looking out for me. I've got a CD ignition box Charlie but I never planned on installing it unless I got a really good MSD distributor to go along with it.

 

[charlief1]

That's why your the man Charlie, always looking out for me. I've got a CD ignition box Charlie but I never planned on installing it unless I got a really good MSD distributor to go along with it.

:biggrin: Well it just happens that I've got a unilite sitting in a box waiting for a new owner Adam. I was gonna send it to Aj but he never sent me his address. You want it? It was given to me and I don't know anything about it.

 

[WarWagon]

:biggrin: Well it just happens that I've got a unilite sitting in a box waiting for a new owner Adam. I was gonna send it to Aj but he never sent me his address. You want it? It was given to me and I don't know anything about it.

Well hell yeah I want that distributor lol. Something like that would clean up the area of the engine and make a lot more room to boot.
Your the best Charlie, Thanks!

 

[charlief1]

Well hell yeah I want that distributor lol. Something like that would clean up the area of the engine and make a lot more room to boot.
Your the best Charlie, Thanks!

I packed it up a while ago so I have to find it, but I'll try and send it your way this week bud.

 

[WarWagon]

I packed it up a while ago so I have to find it, but I'll try and send it your way this week bud.

That's great Charlie.
Well I just verified the ignition timing again and I found another contributor toward the problem. Timing started out near 20* probably 19* and when all the auto retarding was done with the revs brought up the last number was 12* when it quit retarding the timing and that is total timing under boost WOT. I sure remember it stopping 18* before but it's not right now. So I advanced the distributor and brought the revs up again to get the retarding to stop on 18-19* again now and at idle it's off the timing pointer but looks like 23-24* hell maybe even 25* now. I'll test drive the car again tonight on the way to my buddies garage to help put in a bigger meth tank in his Kenne-Bell '03 Cobra that we added Razor/Julio's ALKYCONTROL kit too with 25 psi.

 

[charlief1]

Granted it's my old NA set-up, but I used to run 43 degrees timing with a 10:1 compression on super. You really need the MSD BTM as well as at least a 6A box with a timing control. This will let you set the timing from the drivers seat where ever you need it.

 

[usetaboost]

No, you really need to put on an alky kit and put that turbo to good use.

 

[WarWagon]

No, you really need to put on an alky kit and put that turbo to good use.

Hahaha I'm going too Jesse. I don't want to use anything but an ALKYCONTROL system now that I helped install and tune one. And I don't have the near $600 available at the moment for that kit with the 3 bar map. Charlie I'll have my Jacobs CD Ign box and boost retard hooked up and operating when the distributor gets installed It's super simple and basic now though.

 

[usetaboost]

Just run a cheapo setup like I told ya. Something is better than nothing. Like I said, 23 lbs and 22* timing with washer fluid

 

[WarWagon]

Just run a cheapo setup like I told ya. Something is better than nothing. Like I said, 23 lbs and 22* timing with washer fluid

I'm working on it Jessie
Edit edit edit for post 449: I was wrong on my read of the tach. Engine was still NOT revving over 4500rpm's with the addition of new Pertronix HEI module
Ok here we go again.. I got the new Ignition coil in today and installed and went for another test drive and once again the performance is the best ever yet, Really clean from idle through the mid range and the pull is GREAT up until 4500rpm's and again the engine is done on power. It actually feels and sounds like a rev limiter yet the engine is NOT equipped with a rev limiter. But it has no problem absolutely lighting up my tires hitting 2nd gear with the roll up on boost in 1st. So am I missing out on the power of the stock cam by the engine shutting the power down early @ 4500rpm's? or is there that much left in the stock cam and I'm not harnessing it because engine currently won't hit 5100-5200 rpm?
I just got a Mallory Unilite non-vac advance distributor that I can use with my Jacobs CD ignition box to swap in if this HEI is causing this issue.