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Thanks Guys I'm working on it. Charlie if I didn't have such a long drive back home or had trailered my car I'd have checked them at the track, all I brought were no tools lol.
Just the other day the car developed a miss under boost. I removed and examined the spark plugs lastnight. Cyl 1 and 2 spark plugs had some rust and looks like coolant seeping in. The rest looked good as expected but cyl 6 was fouled out. They all were gapped at .025 then I cleaned at opened them to .028 gap. Installed new plug wires and scraped off the oxidation on the distributor cap and rotor terminals. I decided to perform a compression health check while I was there. This engine has 200k+ miles and every cyl was 150-145psi execpt cyl 5. It was 116psi. So put it back together turned alky off set boost to 20psi and it's fine now. When the roads dry up I'll turn it back up and let the alky flow again and see where it's at now.
 
Update:
Pretty sure the stock cam is now done and wiped. I've been chasing this problem(stumbling, surging/power loss under boost) that was intermittent at first. Now these symptoms are constant with a boost fluctuation just over 12 psi. I checked and re-gapped the plugs .028, new plug wires, new distributor cap and rotor, None of those helped. So then I pulled the flame thrower Hei module and swapped it with the old 4 pin module and no change is symptoms. I swapped back to the flame thrower Hei module and then changed out the Mallory coil with a good stock Hei coil, no change in symptoms. I have a Mallory hyfire 6 ignition installed that works great but I bypassed it and just ran off the Hei module with still no changes in the symptoms so I removed the bypass and let the ignition run like normal. The fuel pressure is good and the pump is good and fuel pressure rises 1:1 no problem. The car idles great, does not make any valve train noise, pulls 16" of vacuum and drives just fine cruising but the same symptoms occur when the engine is under boost. The stumbling starts at around 10psi and does not clear up, the boost needle fluctuates once 12psi is reached and will not rev over 4000 or so rpm's. So I believe I have pretty much ruled every other thing out I think would cause this and I'm left with the valve train now.
 
Do a compression test and a leak down Test Adam. If you get nothing out of that then I'd pull the heads and see about changing the springs.
 
aww no, thats sucks Adam!

not bad though for a stock cam.... gotta give it kudos for how long it lasted and how fast you were going!
 
^-- I agree, I had that camshaft in 2 different blocks already plus it was used when I got it with matching GM lifters. The 140 block I'm running already had a wiped out camshaft when I bought it and I did nothing to the block or oil pump. So it was a matter of time before that engine killed another flat tappet camshaft, It just sucks it happened right now and not like the middle or end of fall because I still have lots of racing and playing to do and I wasn't ready for this.
 
I can understand that, its always at the worst times ever does that stuff fail. But with a healthy 210/212 I think you would rock socks.... I think you should keep it flat tappet too.....but I'm crazy...:cool:

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^----flat tappet-- probably will temporarily! Ok I decided to probably just tweak the timing cover for oil flow and install the Edelbrock 204-214 flat tappet cam. Now I shouldn't have to do anything because this is an '85 140 block, leaving the heads alone on their stock head gaskets. Just swap the camshaft and button the engine back up to finish out the season or until it finally dies, cheap.

Staff @ PRP actually took a picture of the old Regal and somehow it looks good? lol. Dig the RS on the header panel!
main.php

Ohh no, It's on of those pictures. don't mind me looking at you looking at me lol.
 
Getting the car back together for a test and tune @ PRP next Tuesday. So I've tore the engine down to get the stock cam out and it looks like it did the day I put it in...like it and lifters have 40k miles on them. OK whatever, only thing bad I found was bent intake push rod on cyl 1. I cleaned the stock cam up and labeled the lifters and shelved them. Im still going with the flat 204/214 camshaft, an extra set of used stock push rods. Also got a new custom 6265 Turbo built by Bison, although it's not meant for this engine I may install it and see how it performs anyways. uhh I kinda wished I had just taken the valve cover off and swapped the push rod now instead if all this...Well at least I can mod the front cover for more oil now since it's off. Pics soon!
 
Upon further investigation I found the double roller timing set was sloppy and jumped one tooth position which contributed to the bent push rod. No problems now I installed my spare double roller timing set destined for the roller engine. At least I know that my oil preference isn't causing wear or wiping cam out. On with finishing this up now, got to get to the track this Tuesday and Flashlight Drags in Sept.
 
Blew the shim head gasket on or shortly after the cam break-in. The stock 140 block is coming out and the roller 109 is getting built on going in its place. Follow "Slow blowthru engine build" 'til it gets in the car.
 
Not sure, perhaps its just time its over 200k mi now, the ignition timing was retarded a bit during part of the cam break-in probably helped too.
 
Anything is possible, it was running well on 5 cyl though lol. find out later when I eventually tear it down but now enough on the stock engine on to the built 109!
 
Getting back on this finally, went on to finish my Corvair first and that cost me money that was destined for the Buick now it's still not right..... So
Heads are off finally broke the factory seal on the 140 casting block. Corroded stock shim head gasket finally let go on cyl #1. Cyl #6 wasn't corroded but part was missing and about ready to go. The rest of the engine looks good inside so moving on.
Plans changed a bit now since the greedy Corvair took the Buicks money. I borrowed a few parts from roller cam 109 block I'm still building. I'm using the ported iron heads, beehive valve springs and billet 6265 turbo on the 140 casting block with RJC bulletproof shim gasket set. Also while in the area and have extra room I'm upgrading the upper front control arms with tubular style and bearings on a steel cross shaft instead of factory rubber bushings.


 
Alright you high mileage stock bottom end hang in there.
Got the ported Stage JR heads assembled, beehive spring package on cleaned and ready to go with thinner RJC bulletproof head gasket kit. Swapped out the stock upper A arms with trashed bushings for tubular uppers with bearings instead.





 
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