Replacing injectors and FPR

[GullsGN]

Yes, I believe you can leave the cables on the bracket and just unbolt it. I am pretty sure that is how I did it. But, it has been a few years.:wink:

 

[oc192]

Thanks Gull. I looked at the picture again really enlarged and I do see where it is locking. OK, here goes another broken connector.:biggrin: The old plastic pieces under the hood are so brittle it takes little effort to break. Worst case scenario is I zip tie them together...

 

[oc192]

Out with the old

In with the new

OK, I have installed the new parts, and all things considering, it went better then planned. It was getting a late in the day when I got everything connected so I didn't have much time to mess around with the FPR but it seems like it wasn't adjusting at all. The fuel pressure stayed at 38# line off and when I tweaked the screw, it didn't change anything. Is the screw fairly sensitive, or do you really have to make a lot of turns to see a change?

 

[scojack_2001]

Out with the old

In with the new

OK, I have installed the new parts, and all things considering, it went better then planned. It was getting a late in the day when I got everything connected so I didn't have much time to mess around with the FPR but it seems like it wasn't adjusting at all. The fuel pressure stayed at 38# line off and when I tweaked the screw, it didn't change anything. Is the screw fairly sensitive, or do you really have to make a lot of turns to see a change?

Nice work!! Looks good! Sorry I wasnt around this weekend... Had to help some buddies pull a Intech 32v V8 out of a Lincoln Mark 8. What a collosal pain in my balls that was. Engine/trans had to come out the bottom... It took us 12 hours but we won! It was worth it, the block was a Teksid.

As for the fuel pressure, what gauge are you using?? I have an Accufab on my car (was there when I bought it) and its been working flawlessly since. They're real good regulators, so if there is an issue it most likely isnt the regulator. My gauge came from Casper's way back in the day. Its the one with the 2" gauge and the 36" braided line. Works good.

If your using a rail mount gauge, I hear they're not very accurate. Can't really confirm this as when my old one broke I trashed it and installed my current gauge.

Is the regulator fully seated?

 

[BuickMike]

Glad you got it together. Keep tightening the adjustment screw clockwise until you get more fuel pressure. I'm wondering if it was backed out all the way and 38 is the lowest you can get. If I remember correctly, my ATR FPR gives you about 1psi of pressure per 1/3 turn or so. It's pretty sensitive.

 

[oc192]

I worked on the FPR this morning and I was able to get it to 43# line off. Had to turn down the screw pretty far. I may get a 2nd fuel pressure gauge just to double check. Anyways, I took the car for a spin and it runs much much better. At one point I was around 12# of boost and fuel pressure was at least in the 50s, on my old setup, it never went over 43. There is still some knock but it seems intermittent and it shows green on the knock gauge where before I would get into the upper amber. Spoke with BuickMike about it, could be false knock? I bought a scanmaster, will try some tweaks there to see if it makes any difference.

As always, thanks for the help!

Don

 

[EVIL]

I just did a search for replacing the fuel injectors and found this thread.

Fantastic information gentleman.

Thanks
D

 

[87GN_70GS]

X10 on lube the o-rings. They are easy to cut. I found out the hard way. When I was done I had massive fuel leaks and had to do it all over again

 

[GNRick]

So you lube the O-rings before you remove the injectors? How do you that? I think I sprayed WD-40 or something on mine, then pryed them out with a spoon. I didn't unplug the injector harness. What's the point of that? By the looks of it, I would probably wind up cracking that white connector.

 

[bmackinnon]

I didn't unplug the injector harness. What's the point of that?

He meant lube the new orings before re-installing the injectors/rail...

and he was replacing the inj. harness w/ a new caspers unit....

 

[TurboTnZ06]

Great advice from everyone here. Please let me stress how important it is start the fuel return line threads FIRST before bolting to the fuel rail. I stripped mine and has to replace fuel line. Not fun and waste of money for line.

Good luck!

Makes it so much easier too!

 

[scojack_2001]

So you lube the O-rings before you remove the injectors? How do you that? I think I sprayed WD-40 or something on mine, then pryed them out with a spoon. I didn't unplug the injector harness. What's the point of that? By the looks of it, I would probably wind up cracking that white connector.

Some of these cars out there still have their original injectors in them, believe it or not. My WH-1 did when I bought it back in 2004. After lots of years and miles the can be really stuck in there. Some penetrating lube would help to get them out.

The point of unplugging the injector harness is so that the fuel rail, injectors, and harness can be removed from the car as a unit and worked on at a bench. Easier that way.

 

[Dennis F]

Are those little clips at the top of the injector that go over the fuel rail and the injector housing needed? I broke one today. I only ask as they are not on one of my other cars when I did a swap.

If they are needed, who is the vendor to go to to get new ones, thanks!

 

[scojack_2001]

Are those little clips at the top of the injector that go over the fuel rail and the injector housing needed? I broke one today. I only ask as they are not on one of my other cars when I did a swap.

If they are needed, who is the vendor to go to to get new ones, thanks!

No, I did not reinstall them when I put the first set of injectors in my GN. I dont even know what I did with them! Once the rail is tightened down, the injectors aren't going anywhere.

Dont know who would have new ones out there today.

 

[Joeld]

Hi all, thanks for this excellent reference post! I'm going to be replacing my stock injectors, 19K on the car, replacing with stock. Sending out a stock set to Chuck to be gone through.
There's a picture within post 16 on page one of this thread. There's a black, plastic round object, looks to be connected to the intake, it is just to the right of hte fuel pressure regulator. Looks like I may have to remove it to get my fuel rail off. First, can someone tell me what it is? and Second, how do I remove it?
Thanks,
Joel

 

[Chuck Leeper]

Looks like I may have to remove it to get my fuel rail off. First, can someone tell me what it is? and Second, how do I remove it?

That may be a temp switch you are referring to. Pinch it across the "fat" side, and pull up.

 

[Joeld]

Thanks chuck
It is the large plastic topped some to the right of the FR.
Joel

 

[MAK507]

There's a black, plastic round object, looks to be connected to the intake, it is just to the right of hte fuel pressure regulator. Looks like I may have to remove it to get my fuel rail off. First, can someone tell me what it is? and Second, how do I remove it?
Thanks,
Joel

It's the EGR valve.. I hate that thing [emoji23]

The black plastic round thing is a cover for it. If you look right at it, look down at the bottom of it, really close to the valve cover, you'll see a bolt that needs to be removed. It's a pain in the ass to get it back on with a new gasket.

If you remove the black cover for the EGR valve, you should be able to work around it. I was able to remove and reinstall my injectors and the fuel rail without having to remove the EGR valve.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rpoL98]

i just replaced my TT 42# injectors with new ones. the old ones were plugged with sediment on the inlet side, car stalled, tow truck. car isn't driven much, maybe couple times a year.

anyways, question i have is, with everything buttoned down, i notice that there's some up-and-down wiggle or play on the injectors in their bores, maybe 1/8". is that normal? the fuel rail retaining brackets are indeed flush on their manifold bolt bosses.

am i supposed to use double o-rings in the manifold? i started it up and it runs fine, no leaks anywhere.

 

[turbofrank]

Great advice from everyone here. Please let me stress how important it is start the fuel return line threads FIRST before bolting to the fuel rail. I stripped mine and has to replace fuel line. Not fun and waste of money for line.

Good luck!

Yes easy job turn into a couple days . Do one thing at a time.