Replacing timing cover-what else do I need?

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GNRick

Retired member
Joined
Mar 21, 2004
Messages
5,485
I called TA Peformance and spoke with a very nice lady who didn't have a clue. I ordered a timing cover, oil pump (not the high output one), cam button, and a couple gaskets. Also ordered the oil pump shim kit. Do I need the kit? Do I need anything else? I'll just buy a new water pump at O'reillys. Thanks.
 
Get a Melling P-20I wear plate as well...can pick it up at Auto Zone. It will need to be port matched as well.
Oil pan gasket
1/2" dril/ bit for drilling the front cover oil passage from pump to block unless TA has already done this to cover you bought.
1/8" drill bit for drilling a hole at the valley /center between 2 gear teeth on the oil pump idler gear
Files to clean up gear after drilling and also to clean up flashing in "window" on the inlet of the oil filter adapt
Ball end burr for non ferrous to blend/radius the 90 degree turn when porting the cover
Exacto knife or equiv for port match the gaskets.
Front cover gasket kit if you dont already have one coming from TA
Petroleum jelly for packing the oil pump after getting it set up

A few things off teh top of my head
 
Get a Melling P-20I wear plate as well...can pick it up at Auto Zone. It will need to be port matched as well.
Oil pan gasket
1/2" dril/ bit for drilling the front cover oil passage from pump to block unless TA has already done this to cover you bought.
1/8" drill bit for drilling a hole at the valley /center between 2 gear teeth on the oil pump idler gear
Files to clean up gear after drilling and also to clean up flashing in "window" on the inlet of the oil filter adapt
Ball end burr for non ferrous to blend/radius the 90 degree turn when porting the cover
Exacto knife or equiv for port match the gaskets.
Front cover gasket kit if you dont already have one coming from TA
Petroleum jelly for packing the oil pump after getting it set up

A few things off teh top of my head
Thanks turboNasty. I was hoping for $200 most of that stuff was already done by TA. I didn't think I needed the wear plate but good to know I can buy it locally. I ordered the front cover gasket. So I have to drop the oil pan and then replace the oil pan gasket?
 
IMO dont pinch penneys on the oiling system
If you are doing the pump build its best to run a plate
.
Think of it like this...steel gears wearing against the aluminum adapter that you spent time setting up or them riding against the steel plate.
Which one is going to keep the the tolerance/end play longer?

Nuff said
 
My mechanic installed the TA cover tonight. We used the wear plate and new oil pump gears packed in Vaseline and a new water pump. Also replaced the S hose and the other s shaped hose along with a new power steering pump hose. Didn't drop the oil pan, just used gasket sealant on bottom of the timing cover. Also replaced the cam sensor and crank sensor. Added fresh coolant, changed the oil/filter (added ZDDP to Mobile One Synthetic that was on sale for $5/quart) and car runs fine. Oil pressure went up to 75 on VDO gauge (cold start up). No leaks.
 
Rick,
Thanks for sharing this with us. Would you mind telling us what your hot idle oil pressure was before and after the new front cover? And about how many miles are on your engine?

Thanks for any help,
Paul Lohr
 
Rick,
Thanks for sharing this with us. Would you mind telling us what your hot idle oil pressure was before and after the new front cover? And about how many miles are on your engine?

Thanks for any help,
Paul Lohr
Sure Paul. Hot oil pressure didn't seem to change much. It was/is 12-15 psi. I have about 50k miles on the rebuild. At 60 mph it was/is about 40 psi. that might seem low to some folks, but I had a TTA with 29k miles and it had the same oil pressure at 60 mph.
 
Wow...really....."rolleyes". Earls write up is nice and gives you a great starting point. Its really just a mirror of the powersource book.
And btw you wont get a built TA cover without one.
Hurry better call TA and tell them they are a bunch of clueless toolbags because you read a write up on tbs.com and it didnt mention a wear plate.
 
Wow...really....."rolleyes". Earls write up is nice and gives you a great starting point. Its really just a mirror of the powersource book.
And btw you wont get a built TA cover without one.
Hurry better call TA and tell them they are a bunch of clueless toolbags because you read a write up on tbs.com and it didnt mention a wear plate.
I've got the powersource and the "how to hotrod your Buick V6" books and they don't have that much of a write up in it. I do have an old KB catalog but it says to use a HV pump or don't build it.:eek: You might not like Earl but it's a great write up and is straight foward on how to do it as well what not to do. I do like using a modified thrust plate myself though.:D
 
Thrust plates are a bandaid for people that can't blueprint and build a pump correctly.

If it works for you, rock on - but they aren't "required" if someone builds the pump right, and are just another failure point.

Shocking how THOUSANDS of turbo V6 motors have 100k + on them and don't have these plates.

I'm surprised I don't see a 7th injector listed in your sig..
 
Thrust plates are a bandaid for people that can't blueprint and build a pump correctly.

If it works for you, rock on - but they aren't "required" if someone builds the pump right, and are just another failure point.

Shocking how THOUSANDS of turbo V6 motors have 100k + on them and don't have these plates.

I'm surprised I don't see a 7th injector listed in your sig..
LOL I do have a 7th injector that came in a box of spare parts when I bought the car. It's for sale too! My mechanic said he could have someone (he didn't say who) machine the surface but that would take a couple extra days. I was anxious to get my car running so that is why we used the plate. It was my call, but he agreed it is a potential leak location.
 
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