You can type here any text you want

return line leak diagnosis (pic)

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

Ray F.

New Member
Joined
Oct 10, 2002
Messages
20
Would you consider this a gasket leak or a cracked return line?
 

Attachments

  • Turbo Oil Return.JPG
    Turbo Oil Return.JPG
    78.2 KB · Views: 200
I'd start with a gasket,those tubes crack also. Also seen when the seal on the exhaust side goes it can leak out and run down,but car should smoke if that is the case.
 
Probably the gasket.

I had the tube crack once, it sprayed oil all over my freshly ceramic coated headers and downpipe. :mad:
 
Looks like the gasket is starting to go away. If you notice, the bolt hole goes through the bearing housing. Once the gaskets starts to degrade, oil can and will travel up and out the bolt hole, as well as past the gasket. Might want to get a new gasket from one of the reputable turbo vendors and glue it on. Pretty common. I advise using care when moving the factory oil return line around while changing the gasket. Excessive bending of that tube can and will cause a crack over time. Just the smallest crack in that tubing can lead to a huge oil leak.
HTH

Patrick
 
Which gasket are you using? The thin (paper thin) one's are useless. Get the thicker gaskets (I'll have to look the part number up after work). They never leak with a thin coat of orange rtv, and can actually be re-used several times.
It looks like you've got the thick one, just needs replacing.
 
If you use two 8mm studs in the mounting holes it's easier to align it all up dry with a new gasket and just put the nuts on to proper torque specs.

Trying to get the bolts in place with a new gasket and goop sometimes causes problems and then leaks.

Obviously when using the studs you don't want to dig them into the flange and gasket when installing it either.

Get them long enough to stick out about 3/8" past the flange and that's with the thicker gasket.
 
If you use two 8mm studs in the mounting holes it's easier to align it all up dry with a new gasket and just put the nuts on to proper torque specs.

Trying to get the bolts in place with a new gasket and goop sometimes causes problems and then leaks.

Obviously when using the studs you don't want to dig them into the flange and gasket when installing it either.

Get them long enough to stick out about 3/8" past the flange and that's with the thicker gasket.

Damn thats a good idea! It can be a pain trying to put bolts in and line it all up at the same time.
 
Back
Top