RJC deep oil pan?

[87turbot-type]

Easy one!

Got my pan but no instructions. Are you supposed to use the oil pickup tube spacer provided or is that just for engines with girddles?

Thanks in advance

 

[jpratt]

Yes you need to use it. If you have a girdle then you have to use a different space. BUT YOU NEED THAT SPACER that came with it.

 

[87turbot-type]

Thank you very much sir

 

[turbodave231]

I'd advise you to check the distance between the bottom of the pickup and the pan. (Use some Playdough). I ended up making my own extended pickup because I had over 1/2". Ideally the pickup should be about 1/4" off the pan bottom.

I also ran into a problem on the rear main cap where the pan hits the main stud/nut.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

Yes you need to use it. If you have a girdle then you have to use a different space. BUT YOU NEED THAT SPACER that came with it.

X 2

Chuck

 

[turbodave231]

I found more issues.........

The crank counter weights hit the windage tray (Moldex 3.625 stroker)
The Cad plating scrapes off the inside of the pan with a fingernail (don't want that crap in the oil)
The nose of the pan hits the balancer (BMS balancer)

I removed the windage tray, glass beaded the crappy coating and re-welded the tray in 1/4" lower. I also ground the nose of the pan for clearance.

What a PITA!! Seems like the more you pay for a part, the more you have to Frick with it to make it work.

 

[turbofabricator]

I found more issues.........

The crank counter weights hit the windage tray (Moldex 3.625 stroker)
The Cad plating scrapes off the inside of the pan with a fingernail (don't want that crap in the oil)
The nose of the pan hits the balancer (BMS balancer)

I removed the windage tray, glass beaded the crappy coating and re-welded the tray in 1/4" lower. I also ground the nose of the pan for clearance.

What a PITA!! Seems like the more you pay for a part, the more you have to Frick with it to make it work.

And people wonder WHY it costs SOOOoooo much money to assemble a Buick V6. EVERYTHING has to be checked and double checked. I am in the process of building a StageI 4.1 , and it has a sleeve in one cylinder. (done by another machine shop) and when I was checking the oil galleries to see if it has had them radiused, I looked thorugh the cam bearing and noticed a HUGE crack at the bottom of the cylinder where the sleeve was seated against the lower register. I tapped it with a small ball peen and two pieces, about .187" thick and about 1/3 the diameter of the cylinder, FELL out of the block. If I hadn't checked everything closely, those chuncks would have fell right into the roller cam.
If you run a RJC pan, do as Dave suggests, and check EVERYTHING!..........Twice! You can use some Scotchbrite to remove the "loose" cad plating, if you don't have a bead blaster. BUT, be SURE to clean all that abrasive out of the oil pan. Just when you THINK it's clean enough, spray some MORE brake clean in it and wipe it out with a lint free rag/blow it out. The abrasive in Scotchbrite is real nasty stuff.

 

[turbofabricator]

I just spent the better part of a 1/2 hour brushing out the BAD cad plating in the sump of a RJC pan, too. The plating was OK on the sides and baffle, but REAL bad in the sump. Also, don't breath that stuff, either. I use cad plated bolts, and nuts in the aviation world, and have to be tested (blood test) for cad exposure every so often. Don't lick the stuff up. Cadmium is some real nasty stuff. Nothing to be paranoid about,just take care not to breath it in. This could possibly save your engine. Thanks for the heads-up Dave.:smile:

 

[turbodave231]

Ken,

You are right on the money, Cadmium= bad

I wore a full respirator when I was running the die grinder. I told Jason about the issues I ran into. The pan is still a very nice piece. Heavy gauge, well reinforced, and nice flat sealing surfaces.

In building a custom engine it is very important to check every clearance twice. The minute you say "naw, that'll be OK" is when you get burned!!

 

[turbofabricator]

I am going to fab a new pick-up tube, also. The adaptor needed alot of trimming to clear the girdle. (no big deal to do, though) Then I checked the positioning of the pick-up and it is WAY too far from the bottom (over .5", though I didn't get an exact measurement) And it is too far forward in the sump for my likeing. I will build a new one to get the pick-up right at the back of the sump. I am also going to weld in a front baffle to prevent the oil from leaving the sump when hitting the brakes at the end of the 1/4 mile. (to prevent breaking into the nines ) I think a good pan REALLY NEEDS a front baffle. At the end of the track, all the oil goes forward just as it does when you launch ('cept the other way ) I still have to check the clearance with the baffle with the stroker crank. That will have to wait until I get it line honed.
I also took all the cadmium dust I brushed out of the inside of the pan and, because I needed a new filling, I packed it into a front tooth. Now I look like one of those rapper dudes.:biggrin: (at least for a few more hours 'till it killz me.)

 

[turbo nasty]

Ken,
I told Jason about the issues I ran into.

What did he say?

 

[cpac]

YOU GUYS EVER SEE A DAN STREZO ALU OIL PAN..NICE

 

[turbodave231]

Jason said he wasn't happy about the plating quality.

I've never seen a DLS aluminum oil pan. Got any pictures? How much?

I'll end up with a dry sump on my next engine and Leo sold me a nice dry sump pan.

 

[cpac]

Pan Is On Car 1500 Miles Away ....dan Shoot Us Some Pics

 

[cpac]

Its Like Pulling Teeth To Get Dan To Show Dls Products

 

[norbs]

What happens if this dust mixes with the oil? Won't the oil filter just catch it? Will it chew up the bearings? Do i have to pull my motor out becuase of this?

 

[ttypewhite]

Its Like Pulling Teeth To Get Dan To Show Dls Products

DLS oil pan which I believe is 8 hundred and something dollars.

 

[TURBOPOWERED68]

Why do you need a longer oil pick up tube?
Is the purpose of the deep pan to move the oil away from the rotating assembly?
Or
To have a higher oil capacity for the engine?

Sorry for the dumb questions guys.
David

 

[turbodave231]

That DLS pan looks nice!! Kinda pricey......but your get what you pay for.

The pickup needs to be 1/4" off the bottom of the pan in order to keep from sucking air when the oil sloshes forward or rearward during braking or acceleration. A deeper pan requires a longer pickup.

If you're wondering what the oil in your pan is doing............here is a tip:

Fill the pan with water and have a buddy drive you around. Have him stand on the brakes and you watch the water. You can rotate the pan to simulate accel, braking, or cornering. Might want to bring some towels!!!

DR

 

[S2V6RACER]

DLS oil pan which I believe is 8 hundred and something dollars.

Hey, nice oil pan!!!