Scanmaster 2.1 newbie numbers

[turbo39151]

I just got my scanmaster 2.1 and hooked it up. I ran a general scan while in the driveway just to get an idea of what this thing does. I have a few numbers that I'd like a little feedback on to make sure everything is up to par. I think it is but I don't know anything.


Here goes:

AF- 08
L8- 50
Int-128
bl-128
clt-90
Ats-61
r-950
tps-.44
IAC-50
cc- was jumping all over the place (the car is running a new OEM O2, no cat)
Didn't get PL or sp #'s (?)

 

[BJM]

AF- 08
L8- 50
Int-128
bl-128
clt-90
Ats-61
r-950
tps-.44
IAC-50
cc- was jumping all over the place (the car is running a new OEM O2, no cat)
Didn't get PL or sp #'s (?)

AF is the Mass air flow of air into the engine, 8 g/s is typical

L8 is a computed load on the engine from 0-255, its used with RPM to determine where in the timing table it should be at any instant, timing and fuel are each updated 80 times per second.

INT and BLM both at 128 seems odd. BLM is the long term average fuel trim the ECM uses. It calculates the fuel to put in, checks the O2 and adjust the trim if the the O2 is not oscillating about .450 V as it ramps fuel up and down using the fast INTegrator. Both at 128 means the ECM is calculating exactly the fuel needed which never happens. Given the coolant temp you are in open loop and warming up. Still the BLM should read something else unless you just reset the ECM memory before starting it up.

Once warm the decimal place on the right should go solid indicating its in closed loop.

clt-90 is deg F, your car is warming up.

Ats-61 air at just after the air filter is 61 deg F.

r-950, a somehwat high idle, but at that temp the ECM is using the IAC to keep the idle high and slowly drops it down as the car warms up.

tps-.44 throtle position sensor in volts. Must be roughly at .42-.48V at idle or the ECM thinks you are using the pedal and it messes up the idle routine.

IAC-50 Idle air control stepper motor is 50 steps out from the pintle being seated and blocking idle air off. Range is 0-180 steps. Warmed up in drive it should be around 10-30, the lower the better some say.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

BLM and INT are both at 128 because the car is still in open loop - computer doesnt "engage" fueling control until engine is warmer and in closed loop than it will start switching from lean to rich to stay around stoich - when your car is around 120 degrees or so you will see the Block learn and intergrator start jumping around.HTH

 

[BJM]

BLM and INT are both at 128 because the car is still in open loop - computer doesnt "engage" fueling control until engine is warmer and in closed loop than it will start switching from lean to rich to stay around stoich - when your car is around 120 degrees or so you will see the Block learn and intergrator start jumping around.HTH

Not true at all. The BLM will be whatever has been previously learned unless you are cranking. When you are cranking it is not allowed to go below a certain level. Anytime the engine is running the learned BLM value is used. Fueling control is constant, there is no "off" time. The Closed loop part I agree with, but that is completely dependant on the chip tuner's choice for when C/L will occur. In the early factory chips it was below 100 F. On a Thrasher it is 140 for instance.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

The Closed loop part I agree with, but that is completely dependant on the chip tuner's choice for when C/L will occur. In the early factory chips it was below 100 F. On a Thrasher it is 140 for instance.

i agree with this - that is why i say "120 or so" but i know before my engine reaches operating temps my engines BLM and INT are locked at 128 at a cold start...... maybe thats where the confusion is. At a warm start they are probably at around the same as when shut off.... i'll check on that but I KNOW at a cold start my BLMs/INT are locked at 128

 

[BJM]

i agree with this - that is why i say "120 or so" but i know before my engine reaches operating temps my engines BLM and INT are locked at 128 at a cold start...... maybe thats where the confusion is. At a warm start they are probably at around the same as when shut off.... i'll check on that but I KNOW at a cold start my BLMs/INT are locked at 128

It might be the chip you are using. A factory style chip does not lock the BLM. The INT is locked in O/L, maybe I didn't say that. In a true O/L idle chip the BLM cell is locked to 128 since it cannot learn. In O/L idle chips that use factory code (Turbotweak for one) the cell learns until the INT is within a selected range centered near 128 and then goes O/L so the idle cell is not 128. But even ignoring all of that, start your car cold and go driving, the previously learned BLM values are used.

The definition of warm start in the Buick ECM exists but its normally set quite high like 160 F. Its purpose is to set a countdown timer. The car must check several things before attempting C/L. It does an O2 readiness test, it checks coolant temp, it also checks the timer. If the car started "cold" it waits 140 seconds minimum (stock value) before attempting C/L no matter how ready the O2 seems. If "warm", it waits about 2 seconds (stock value). This 2 second delay causes a lot of weird start up things, like BLM values learning up and down by huge amounts right after start up. I always set mine for a minimum of 30 seconds. Enough time to fire it and drive away.

On an Extender the car idles in O/L regardless of your settings for 300 seconds for the same reason. For that reason an Extender will have a BLM at 128 at idle, at least at first.

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

On an Extender the car idles in O/L regardless of your settings for 300 seconds for the same reason. For that reason an Extender will have a BLM at 128 at idle, at least at first.

Maybe this is where my misconception is coming from, as i am running an extender chip and have not had the stock chip in my car since 1998.... and upon cold starts it does stay at 128

 

[turbo39151]

I'm running a TT chip and it is true that I disconnected the ECM prior to the scan master install...

 

[BJM]

I'm running a TT chip and it is true that I disconnected the ECM prior to the scan master install...

His chips usually have O/L idle, but last I was aware he was using the stock code to do it. The factory code is pretty good actually but was not enabled. As you come to a halt the car starts a counter and idles in C/L per normal. Once the timer expires (0-50 seconds can be selected) and the BLM is sufficiently close to learned in (which it checks by looking how far the INT is having to trim), the car clicks over to O/L and uses a separate A/F ratio for idle. I think Turbotweak was setting his chips at 12.5:1 which on my car would start to smell at the tail pipe. C/L is 14.7:1 and I always set mine to 13.5 or so. A 12.5:1 idle should be nice and smooth.

 

[BJM]

Maybe this is where my misconception is coming from, as i am running an extender chip and have not had the stock chip in my car since 1998.... and upon cold starts it does stay at 128

Not sure if you are still using that old Extender or not, but if you are you will really want to upgrade. The old ones had the Power Enrichment threshold set very low for some reason so anytime you got on the throttle the car would guzzle gas for no reason. I altered mine to suit myself but the later ones are not nearly so thirsty. Plus now I believe you can tweak tip-in fuel as a setting. When I bought my Extender the car was nearly undriveable, that was prompted me to study chip coding. I then set everything to my preferences.

 

[turbo39151]

Oh and btw, I'm running an LS1 MAF with a Trans +. The settings are baselined and I have not yet wired the spark control.

I've had the car scanned a few times and all the numbers come out good. I was told that the timing could be bumped up or down a few degrees to make a big difference.

Right now the car runs fine. But does not pull as hard as other similar combo'ed TR's. Just looking for the next step...

 

[Royal-T-Ltd]

Not sure if you are still using that old Extender or not, but if you are you will really want to upgrade. The old ones had the Power Enrichment threshold set very low for some reason so anytime you got on the throttle the car would guzzle gas for no reason. I altered mine to suit myself but the later ones are not nearly so thirsty. Plus now I believe you can tweak tip-in fuel as a setting. When I bought my Extender the car was nearly undriveable, that was prompted me to study chip coding. I then set everything to my preferences.

What software and burning equipment do you have and where can you purchase them from?

 

[BJM]

I have a free burner someone gave me and I downloaded TunerPro. I can give you a very complete parameter file if you are interested. Pocket Programmer II and others provide a cheap way to buy a programmer. Chips are harder to find but I have a few I could sell.