You can type here any text you want

Scanmaster Numbers question

Welcome!

By registering with us, you'll be able to discuss, share and private message with other members of our community.

SignUp Now!

DaveyX87

Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
215
My car seems to be running too rich at idle. Even after it is warm there is condensation or unburnt fuel dripping from the tailpipes. What Scanmaster parameter would indicate the cause of this? It idles a little rough and is hesitant at times as well. The following numbers are warmed up at idle.

O2 503

AF 05

L8 37

Int 128

bL 142

r 725

tps .48

IAC 09
 
My car seems to be running too rich at idle. Even after it is warm there is condensation or unburnt fuel dripping from the tailpipes. What Scanmaster parameter would indicate the cause of this? It idles a little rough and is hesitant at times as well. The following numbers are warmed up at idle.

O2 503

AF 05

L8 37

Int 128

bL 142

r 725

tps .48

IAC 09

BL of 142 indicates the ECM is adding fuel.
 
I know there are debates on this... but is there an advantage to heated vs. non-heated o2 sensors? I believe my chip utilizes open-loop idle... The heated o2 debate seems to be based around the notion that the ecm goes into closed-loop mode quicker than non-heated... Just wondering if it's necessary for me. I don't plan to do any heavy mods or race, and I'm running 91 octane pump gas. Thanks
 
IMO, it depends on the engine combo. A heated O2 can help in a situation where a non-heated unit cools off too much and doesn't operate properly, but Ive only seen that on one turbo buick, and it had a fairly large turbine(street car) so the exhaust would be too cool to keep the O2 sensor hot enough. The cross-counts would slow to a stop and closed loop would be disabled during very light throttle conditions. There could have been other issues but I didn't have enough time to diagnose, we just switched to using the wideband. A heated O2 could allow for a faster transition to closed loop, when all conditions are met, depending on how the parameters are adjusted in the bin. The heated unit will probably live a little bit longer due to the temperature staying more consistent, and wont foul out as quickly. That all goes out the window when leaded fuels are used. For the sake of the KISS method, the OEM non-heated unit should do just fine.


...unless you really want the heated unit
 
Thanks for the info. I ordered the Denso replacement that most suggested on an older thread. I will try that out. Also, I forgot to mention another strange thing with my cross counts. From what I have been reading, my CCs should not move too much during idle due to open loop chip. Mine cycle during idle, and when in gear and a little throttle is applied, they slow or almost stop. Odd. Hopefully this new O2 sensor will fix things.
 
Yeah that's what was happening with my friends car, the O2 would cool off too much during light load conditions. What appeared to be happening was; once the O2 started to cool off, the ECM didn't detect the O2 readings crossing the upper O2 boundary, and add to the fuel trim(increase BLMs) and essentially make the problem worse since adding all the extra fuel would only further cool the exhaust. IIRC, there's a qualifier that will measure the speed of the cross counts in either direction, and if the O2 values do not move fast enough in either direction, the ECM will give it a little nudge(add/subtract fuel trim) to get it moving faster. Anyway, eventually almost all the BLM cells were above 140 and the car would bog during an AE/PE event. Depending on how the TT chip is configured, the BLM may not reset to 128 during PE and if the BLMs are high that could attribute to an overly rich bogging condition.

Its ok if the O2 crosses the stoich boundary(.450V) at idle, in OL, as long as the engine likes it. Crosscounts are normal and have no effect in OL.

Was the engine using a Bosch O2 sensor? Those seem to be garbage sensors(IMO) and not operate properly more often than not. It also may be a good time to check for exhaust leaks, a large enough leak will skew the O2 readings at the sensor, significantly, and not head the sensor up enough to operate properly. If the Denso doesn't seem to remedy the issue, a 3 wire heated unit may be needed.

HTH
 
I changed out the AC O2 sensor for a new Denso today. Now the Scanmaster is reading O2 around 700-800 at idle. Also my CCs aren't cycling at idle anymore; they only cycle when cruising. As for the rich condition, I think this helped. I still have a rough idle and slight hesitation. I'm gonna pull out the intercooler and clean it out along with the throttle body. I noticed some gunk around the mouth of the TB.
 
I changed out the AC O2 sensor for a new Denso today. Now the Scanmaster is reading O2 around 700-800 at idle. Also my CCs aren't cycling at idle anymore; they only cycle when cruising. As for the rich condition, I think this helped. I still have a rough idle and slight hesitation. I'm gonna pull out the intercooler and clean it out along with the throttle body. I noticed some gunk around the mouth of the TB.

CC's not cycling at idle is normal for a TT chip they run an open loop idle
 
Changing to a LT-1 MAF and translator will do wonders for idle and overall drive ability.
 
It will be one the the best $300 spent. Eric sells both the LT-1 MAF and translator. Just a heads up the Chevy MAF is 2" shorter so you will need to get longer hoses to fit it in.
 
I've tracked down exhaust leaks which are probably the cause of the high BLMs. There are multiple leaks in the usual places. One particular is what I think to be the root of this issue (leaking where the turbo bolts up 2" away from O2 sensor). We will see what happens when I get the new headers and gaskets on next week.
 
Back
Top