Scanmaster #'s

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turbonut85

Rarely used member
Joined
Apr 11, 2008
Messages
3,345
Ok guys. I got a scanmaster 2.1 coming. I am brand new to the tuning of these cars, so bear with me on the dumb questions. Can someone post a list of AVERAGE #'s I should be seeing and/or shooting for? And what each of the #'s means...ie: if the BLM is 147 what does that mean, and what do I do to get it to where it should be? My engine is brand new and doesn't run the greatset. It was wrecked when I bought it so I do not know how it should run/sound or what the SM #'s should be. Bear in mind all the sensors---TPS, IAC, Coolant Temp, etc...are the ORIGINALS so I'm not even sure they function properly. Figured I would try them to see if they did before spending $$$ on new ones. My setup is in my sig. ANY help will be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thanks! ---Keith
 
scanmasters

hi
i dont even know if they make the scanmaster for hot air.
 
BLM is block learn which in a nutshell tells you whether the engine is added or subtracting fuel. Anything above 128 is running lean, anything below 128 is rich. You want to keep your BLMs between 118 and 138 as a rule. Vacuum line leaks can cause lean conditions where the air flow is not being measured by the MAF sensor. If there are no leaks then turn to you chip to correct the condition by adding fuel. If you don't have an aftermarket chip then you can increase the fuel pressure to add fuel.

One other thing, you can expect it to run crappy if you aren't running a Translator Plus or the chip is not burned for a 84/85 engine running with a 87 ECM and MAF. You also need to make sure you are using the 84/85 Calpak in the 86/87 ECM (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that because it's been a while since I've done this).
 
BLM is block learn which in a nutshell tells you whether the engine is added or subtracting fuel.* Anything above 128 is running lean, anything below 128 is rich.** You want to keep your BLMs between 118 and 138 as a rule.* Vacuum line leaks can cause lean conditions where the air flow is not being measured by the MAF sensor.** If there are no leaks then turn to you chip to correct the condition by adding fuel.* If you don't have an aftermarket chip then you can increase the fuel pressure to add fuel.One other thing, you can expect it to run crappy if you aren't running a Translator Plus or the chip is not burned for a 84/85 engine running with a 87 ECM and MAF.* You also need to make sure you are using the 84/85 Calpak in the 86/87 ECM (Someone correct me if I'm wrong on that because it's been a while since I've done this).
Great start, Eric. Thanks. The TT chip is burned for the 87 ECM and MAF. Not sure of the Calpak though. Can someone chime in here on this?
 
I may be wrong on this . People always say to use your 85 calpak chip because there are various versions of the 86/87 ECM used on different cars. These ECMs are identical except for the two chips. By using your 85 calpak along with your 86/87 chip you will be good to go. The 86/87 calpak will work as well. Brad
 
I'd email Eric Marshall and ask him about the Calpak, he would know for sure.

One method I use to track down high BLMs is to spray carb cleaner around the vacuum lines, vacuum block, throttle body mount to the turbo, turbo to intake area, fuel pressure regulator, behind the intake at the T, etc... essentially any place after the MAF that air could enter. When I hit the leaking area the engine rev's up and there's the problem area. There are other methods to do this, but that's what works for me. It leaves a little bit of a mess, but it cleans up easy enough.
 
Great info guys. Keep it coming. Like I said, I am a total newbe to tuning these cars. The bottom end mechanical I can do, but the air/fuel delivery is the area I am in desperate need of assistance! Not to mention the ECM stuff!:eek: Brad -- I will shoot an email to Eric Marshall about the calpak and post back with his answer. Thanks guys!! I am ALL EARS!!!:D
 
Eric Marshall replied back and said there is no difference between the calpaks. He said they are the same from 84-87. FYI
 
Try this as well.
There is more info than you will see on Scanmaster, but the "song remains the same". :cool:
Powerlogger Readings Explained - TurboTweak Forum

That's kinda what I'm looking for. Maybe someone could post their #'s so I will be able to compare them to mine...(when I get them)...So maybe I can look for some that are way out of whack and have somewhere to start. I am also getting the 2.2 upgraded chip along with the SM (not installed) so I will be able to add the powerlogger to my setup as funds permit. Thanks again guys!;)
 
Alright guys, here it is. Car warmed up at idle, in park. Rpms seemed to jump up and down from 850 to 1200. Especially when I rev it up the rpm raises to 1000 and stays there. Is the throttle plate sticking open a little?? IDK let me know what you see. Thanks ---Keith

o2 128-601 and jumping all over

KR--0.0

AF---06

L8---41

Bat--13.8

INT--121-131

BLM--119

MPH--00

CLT--157

ATS--71

R----875

TPS--.42

IAC--08

CC---73-251

MAL--00
 
#'s look alright, IAC is just a tad on the low side, most cars are in the 10-30 range on the IAC.
 
#'s look alright, IAC is just a tad on the low side, most cars are in the 10-30 range on the IAC.

IAC is low. Raise it up to 20-30. This will help the idle. What is the TPS reading in park, ign on, engine off and pedal to the floor. You need to be at or above 4.5 volts. Let us know and we can tell you how to adjust the TPS. Brad
 
IAC is low. Raise it up to 20-30. This will help the idle. What is the TPS reading in park, ign on, engine off and pedal to the floor. You need to be at or above 4.5 volts. Let us know and we can tell you how to adjust the TPS. Brad

^^^^^^^WOT TPS ---3.72
 
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