Series II L67 Grand National??!!??

great thread and might have missed it but
someone has done this to a Chevy s10 on the syty board and went low 10s awd
 
I don't know why anyone would buy those stage 2 aluminum block for like 8k when these newer 3.8's seem to take and make plenty of power!
 
They sure do. If someone's stressing a 200 lbs block difference, it's because they aren't making enough power. Add another 2 lbs of boost lol.
 
Cody, I will be joining your club soon!!!!! Just picked up an 84 T last weekend!
 

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Hi Delcowizzid,
What failed in this engine first? and where was the crank shaft from / brand etc? I notice that the L36 rear main cap has no side bolts and I am considering adding them and increasing the bolt diameter of all side caps.

Regards
Jay
 
L67's were the training aids in my upper and lower engine class, along with me having a modded one in my Regal GS, and I can vouch for how absolutely stout they are. Like the others have said, the pistons are the only factor-you'll NEVER break the rods or crank in one of these. Ever. The only thing you'll ruin is the valves, head gaskets or pistons if you're under WOT with super lean conditions and/or insufficient octane. Had a classmate build an L67 from the ground up, then put a 2.8 or so pulley on it (which is super small in our applications) with no meth or high octane and blew through a piston on the freeway within a week's time. Other than that, if your tune's on, you'll blow thru 25 transmissions, 43 cv axles, and 40 passenger side front tires before you ever put any appreciable wear on a nice L67.
I'd be willing to wager, of course if everythings set up right, that not only will you best every record that a factory 109 block has, but your car will rust out around that engine before you need to replace something in it.



What he said.

Subscribed.
 
Hi,
So the L67 factory crank will take a PT88 (precision 4788 - 1250hp) + 200 shot of nitrous? Attached is my LN3 effort. You may notice the rod is still around the crank journal my rev limiter was set at 5500 soft and 5800 hard. (spark I run a gutted DIS system from a Haltech ecu via an nissan 300zx ignitior) The engine had previously gone 10.292 at about 3000lbs. Main caps were in place, the rear most was busted in 1/2.
Thanks!
 

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Tune was off. Lol. Or you had a set of Friday rods. I admit, sintered rods aren't as nice as forged but, that's crazy. It's not ever day you see something like that.
 
My L36 (same crank as l67 with weaker rods and pistons) has been 10.26@134 at 3130 lbs. That was on 19 lbs from 6262. Been as high as 23 lbs on the street, first run at 22 lbs at the track, the transmission input shaft sheared on the 1-2 shift. No hint of problems from bottom end yet.
 
Tune was fine. E85, 20 degrees of timing at 30psi on heads converted to hemi-chamber (even slower burning) bearings mint. I would love to know the truth about what parts are stronger than what. I have no doubt the L36/67 is far superior in the block having the mains cross bolted to stop cap walk and adding rigidity to the block but the crank looks about the same.

I can only guess that the cranks in australia are cast here and if they are the same material that you guys have. There's a l67 here with a 4.2 stroker setup in a car called JetV6 and its ran about a 9.5 and dyno 515rwkw / 666hp but they were adding a custom 6061 girdle before they wanted to push it to 600rwkw / 780hp on the other hand I would like to push one to 750rwkw / 1000hp but I have my doubts even with the best stroker crank the block will probably turn to powder.

JetV6
 

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Tune was fine. E85, 20 degrees of timing at 30psi on heads converted to hemi-chamber (even slower burning) bearings mint. I would love to know the truth about what parts are stronger than what. I have no doubt the L36/67 is far superior in the block having the mains cross bolted to stop cap walk and adding rigidity to the block but the crank looks about the same.

I can only guess that the cranks in australia are cast here and if they are the same material that you guys have. There's a l67 here with a 4.2 stroker setup in a car called JetV6 and its ran about a 9.5 and dyno 515rwkw / 666hp but they were adding a custom 6061 girdle before they wanted to push it to 600rwkw / 780hp on the other hand I would like to push one to 750rwkw / 1000hp but I have my doubts even with the best stroker crank the block will probably turn to powder.

JetV6 [E[/media]

And 1000 hp 109 blocks don't? If a 109 can get a 1000 hp, then an L67 can without a doubt.
 
Hi,
And 1000 hp 109 blocks don't? If a 109 can get a 1000 hp, then an L67 can without a doubt.

We don't have 109 blocks in Australia. Sorry I'm not sure what your saying there is a 1000whp 109 block? How long do they last at that? Is there an l67 making that power anywhere? Thank you.
 
Oh, sorry. Didn't realize you were in Australia. The 109 block is our factory engine block in the Buick Grand National. And I'm very sure there's a 1000hp L67 somewhere around here, but don't know of any personally.
 
companies in the US gave up on stroker engines for L67 years ago. They couldn't make the cranks last. Not enough material in the overlap between the off set mains to put up with the HP. I believe Zzp was the last one offering a stroker crank, and they only recommended it for naturally aspirated engines. The pictures posted here look like main failures similar to what they experienced.
 
Not only less journal-main overlap from offset grinding for the larger stroke, but grinding to 2.10" rod journals have less journal-journal overlap. Do they roll the journals, and nitride the crank after grinding?!

Cody: What A/R, housing type (T3/T4) and is it divided? And it spools at 3100-3200 rpm? How does it cruise?

In a few years, the new L83 4.3L all aluminum, VVT, GDI V6 and 6 speed automatics will find their way into wrecking yards and crate motors ;) 1.97" intake valves, ~260 cfm as cast (~300 cfm ported)
 
You mean the "lv3" 4.3 v6. The l83 is the 5.3.

The 4.3 would be a great foundation for the new GN.
 
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