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SignUp Now!L67's were the training aids in my upper and lower engine class, along with me having a modded one in my Regal GS, and I can vouch for how absolutely stout they are. Like the others have said, the pistons are the only factor-you'll NEVER break the rods or crank in one of these. Ever. The only thing you'll ruin is the valves, head gaskets or pistons if you're under WOT with super lean conditions and/or insufficient octane. Had a classmate build an L67 from the ground up, then put a 2.8 or so pulley on it (which is super small in our applications) with no meth or high octane and blew through a piston on the freeway within a week's time. Other than that, if your tune's on, you'll blow thru 25 transmissions, 43 cv axles, and 40 passenger side front tires before you ever put any appreciable wear on a nice L67.
I'd be willing to wager, of course if everythings set up right, that not only will you best every record that a factory 109 block has, but your car will rust out around that engine before you need to replace something in it.
Tune was fine. E85, 20 degrees of timing at 30psi on heads converted to hemi-chamber (even slower burning) bearings mint. I would love to know the truth about what parts are stronger than what. I have no doubt the L36/67 is far superior in the block having the mains cross bolted to stop cap walk and adding rigidity to the block but the crank looks about the same.
I can only guess that the cranks in australia are cast here and if they are the same material that you guys have. There's a l67 here with a 4.2 stroker setup in a car called JetV6 and its ran about a 9.5 and dyno 515rwkw / 666hp but they were adding a custom 6061 girdle before they wanted to push it to 600rwkw / 780hp on the other hand I would like to push one to 750rwkw / 1000hp but I have my doubts even with the best stroker crank the block will probably turn to powder.
JetV6 [E[/media]
And 1000 hp 109 blocks don't? If a 109 can get a 1000 hp, then an L67 can without a doubt.