Series II L67 Grand National??!!??

for the guys who want to run a stronger trans this is what i buy and get shipped way down here in newzealand to convert the later buick and l67 pattern blocks to T350 400 and glide.have run 11.02 @126mph and the trans is still attached LOL.the plates made from some kind of tool steel or spring steel very solid http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Chevy-4-and-V6-to-TH350-Adapter-Plates,3280.html

This is a good kit or just go with a 4l60e which uses the same harness , since all 3800 fbodies had the 4l60e
 
I think a overdrive transmission makes more sense here
 
Last edited:
Into the 8s now with our jigga. Strong little buggers these L67s.. Still same motor we built back in 2008. Going to keep winding power in till it crys lol.


Would you pm me info on you set up? or list it here ,just interested in what you have accomplished.
Thanks
 
Any other feedback on the Speedway motors adapter plate? I would like to use the adapter plate to mate up my Built 200-4R to the 3800. Will I be able to keep my multi-disk Precision converter?

I don't want anything to do with a 4L60E since I can't trust them any further than I can throw them and I don't feel like spending 3K to try and make one last behind an engine with power. Using an adapter like the speedway motors one appeals since I can easily install a 4L80E in the future.

Thanks, Dan
 
Any other feedback on the Speedway motors adapter plate? I would like to use the adapter plate to mate up my Built 200-4R to the 3800. Will I be able to keep my multi-disk Precision converter?

I don't want anything to do with a 4L60E since I can't trust them any further than I can throw them and I don't feel like spending 3K to try and make one last behind an engine with power. Using an adapter like the speedway motors one appeals since I can easily install a 4L80E in the future.

Thanks, Dan

Hey Dan , long time. Why don't you just pm lonnie and get one of his adapters.
 
I can't offer any info about the adapters but I can tell you that if you are going to use a 2004R with a 3800 Series 2 PCM (as the OP is currently using), that PCM probably won't be able to control the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid in a 2004R. So if you use a 3800 engine and PCM with a 2004R in your car, you will need to install some sort of stand-alone TCC solenoid control device if you want the TCC to operate. Such stand alone TCC controllers are sold for the 700R4 transmissions and I have to assume many of those can be made to work on a 2004R with little or no modification (depending on the design of the device).
 
I can't offer any info about the adapters but I can tell you that if you are going to use a 2004R with a 3800 Series 2 PCM (as the OP is currently using), that PCM probably won't be able to control the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid in a 2004R. So if you use a 3800 engine and PCM with a 2004R in your car, you will need to install some sort of stand-alone TCC solenoid control device if you want the TCC to operate. Such stand alone TCC controllers are sold for the 700R4 transmissions and I have to assume many of those can be made to work on a 2004R with little or no modification (depending on the design of the device).



Tcc on a 200 is easy . You can hydraulically set it up in the trans or just hook up a switch to it. It just needs a 12volt reference.
 
Tcc on a 200 is easy . You can hydraulically set it up in the trans or just hook up a switch to it. It just needs a 12volt reference.

True, but I was thinking more along the lines of having it be controlled based on throttle position/load.
 
Or just go n/l and not worry about it...
 
Hey Dan , long time. Why don't you just pm lonnie and get one of his adapters.

Long time Brian, I hope all has been well now that your down enjoying the warmer climate. I actually did PM Lonnie and picked his brain a bit. What kills me is I literally just got my 5-disk Precision back from Precision and they had to put new clutches in which required a whole new front cover be put on, I haven't even opened the box yet and i find his adapter requires a special converter to be used which would have been no extra cost had I had that put on when they did it. I asked him about if I machined a speedway style hub centering piece for the crank and used spacers for the converter bolts if he thought it would work and he thinks it might. I think I will peruse his adapter, worst case maybe I cant sell my converter and not end up too crazy upside down...
 
I can't offer any info about the adapters but I can tell you that if you are going to use a 2004R with a 3800 Series 2 PCM (as the OP is currently using), that PCM probably won't be able to control the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid in a 2004R. So if you use a 3800 engine and PCM with a 2004R in your car, you will need to install some sort of stand-alone TCC solenoid control device if you want the TCC to operate. Such stand alone TCC controllers are sold for the 700R4 transmissions and I have to assume many of those can be made to work on a 2004R with little or no modification (depending on the design of the device).

Haha, no worries about me using the factory ECU for the trans. I have a Megasquirt 3x on my GN now which controls the lockup as the original ECU did. There is a bunch of other stuff I have it doing on my GN now which I will move right over to the 3800 including:
-Coil On Plug (LS1 Coils)
-Flex Fuel
-2-Step Launch Control
-Spark Cut rev limiter
-Alky Control
-Boost Control (with over boost protection)
-Closed Loop Speed density
-On the fly tune switching
-On the fly flashing
-Autotune of VE table
-EGT input and protection
-Controls my second fuel pump

It has a lot of other functions it does as well but those are an example of what i have now I don't want to give up for a factory ECU.

Thanks, Dan
 
Haha, no worries about me using the factory ECU for the trans. I have a Megasquirt 3x on my GN now which controls the lockup as the original ECU did. There is a bunch of other stuff I have it doing on my GN now which I will move right over to the 3800 including:
-Coil On Plug (LS1 Coils)
-Flex Fuel
-2-Step Launch Control
-Spark Cut rev limiter
-Alky Control
-Boost Control (with over boost protection)
-Closed Loop Speed density
-On the fly tune switching
-On the fly flashing
-Autotune of VE table
-EGT input and protection
-Controls my second fuel pump

It has a lot of other functions it does as well but those are an example of what i have now I don't want to give up for a factory ECU.

Thanks, Dan




Yeah well tx is just to damn hot! So what are you doing ? Building a new car or just want a new set up?
 
I can't offer any info about the adapters but I can tell you that if you are going to use a 2004R with a 3800 Series 2 PCM (as the OP is currently using), that PCM probably won't be able to control the TCC (torque converter clutch) solenoid in a 2004R. So if you use a 3800 engine and PCM with a 2004R in your car, you will need to install some sort of stand-alone TCC solenoid control device if you want the TCC to operate. Such stand alone TCC controllers are sold for the 700R4 transmissions and I have to assume many of those can be made to work on a 2004R with little or no modification (depending on the design of the device).

The OP (me) is not using a 200 trans with a SII PCM. I am using a SII PCM with the 4L60E, and we have been since day 1. This had been running over 500whp on the 4L60E with no issues the entire time, likely over 600whp now. Since the 500whp dyno runs, I have switched many items up. E85, 6266, External 3.5" dp, entire fuel system...etc. The only issue with the trans I have had is the Precision single disc LU TC, which was not built for the power it is seeing. I now have a 5 disc billet TC, but Precision is working on fabricating a one off input shaft to avoid any possible problems before we install. Im not sure how much power you plan on running daily, but the 4L60E has not let me down in 6yrs with very high power level. When they are built correctly, I wouldnt worry much about them. That being said, there are plenty of other options that have been discussed.

I will hopefully get a chance this year to sit down and update the thread with some newer info and results. Had a lot of changes/trials going on the last two years, but it is still running strong. Looking to get some more dyno time this year, as well as get it back to the track for a single pass and get the boot.

Cody
 
Yeah well tx is just to damn hot! So what are you doing ? Building a new car or just want a new set up?

Just wanting something new, I getting to the point of going to a forged 3.8 for reliability at my power level or spending the same or less money on a forged 3800 that is just better off all around. Hey maybe I could even get rid of a couple oil leaks! lol I debated doing a 4.2 atlas as my other option.

,Dan
 
It looks like for the water pump you guys are cutting off the factory outlet and welding it closed, then welding on a port to the line that would usually be designated for the heater lines? Are you all not running a heater anymore? Also for everyone that is running them has this reduced water pump inlet caused any worse cooling?

Thanks, Dan
 
It looks like for the water pump you guys are cutting off the factory outlet and welding it closed, then welding on a port to the line that would usually be designated for the heater lines? Are you all not running a heater anymore? Also for everyone that is running them has this reduced water pump inlet caused any worse cooling?

Thanks, Dan

In some custom applications, some people may choose to block off the heater core ports for whatever reason. I don't. The heater hose port on the water pump housing is the return from the core and the port in the lower intake is the supply to the heater core. Both of these travel thru the factory 3800's alternator bracket, if you are still using it. The factory 3800 alternator bracket also has a passage drilled between the two heater hose passages to connect them - this acts as the water pump bypass circuit. If one chooses to eliminate the factory 3800 alternator bracket, I recommend another bypass be added between the two heater hoses so you have a working bypass. Without it, significant head pressure could be built by the water pump when the thermostat is closed and if the heater hose circuit becomes restricted or blocked.
 
Top