Setting new gears in the rear

[jhanson1750]

Not sure about GNs but on a FORD 8.8 or 9" there is a Master Head Dimension (MHD). That sounds like what you read on the pinion and then verified with mics and math. This is the depth the head of the pinion should be away from the CL of the Ring. If this is a known value then setup is quick. There is not a car company out there that can lose that kind of time per unit. Look like you are a compitent machineist and will get it done. WOW I was told to use anti-seize the first time I ever set up a gear set.

Ps. On the crush sleve I always mic the old one and then get the new one to "start crushing" in a vise or press just don't go to far. When I put them in they are smooth as you could hope for on the drag setting. Jon Hanson

 

[Jeff Rand]

Don't be a hillbilly. Your GN deserves a proper setup not, some halfa$$ job. you're on the right track!!

My hillbilly setup has been working for years. My information comes from a guy that forgotten more then you know! But I guess you know everything about this subject. So if it is not done your way then it is not correct or halfa$$.
Jeff

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

Billy,thanks for the pictures, I needed all the help I could get.

Charlie, thanks for the offer on the gage to set the depth of the pinion gear, if I wasn't a machinst with my own tools I would have called you up. Very generous to offer your gage, thanks.

Jeff, your signature speaks for itself, you are going way faster then I ever hope to go and if it's working, you have proven that it's not needed.

Jon, you are right, motive gear, had the dimension etched in on ther ring gear. This dim. is from the center of ther ring gear to the face of the pinion gear. The directions said to hold this size to +/-.002.

I really don't know what use the crush sleeve does other then support the bearing from the ring gear side. The race is against the shoulder of the housing(which is also the ring gear side), the front of the bearing is against the yoke. So where is the bearing going to go? Maybe the crush sleeve is just there to "help" someone from over tighten the bearing preload...
But like turbofabricator said, "I'm chicken to not run it" and that's how I feel.
I do know that the bearing preload is what's important and that it's correct.
Thanks for helping me through this ordeal, being that this was the first time I decided to do the rear and everything. Thank goodness for the Internet, I would have never even tried this with out the support of all you guys that have posted on here. I'll keep you posted on my journey/adventure untill this project is completed.
Thanks again,

Chuck

 

[Dr.drivability]

rr

My hillbilly setup has been working for years. My information comes from a guy that forgotten more then you know! But I guess you know everything about this subject. So if it is not done your way then it is not correct or halfa$$.Maybe that's it, he forgot!!! I set up rear ends all the time and would'nt even think of leaving parts out! Of coarse I just figure that I get paid to make sure they are all there and installed to oem spec's. PS You won't find a publication from GM, Ford, Eaton, or Auburn saying it's in good practice to leave it out!!!!rr
Jeff

So maybe that's it, he forgot!!Sorry Jeff, accidently got inside your post. Didnt do it on purpose.

 

[84BuickGNYorkPA]

It's done

Well I got to work on the GN this afternoon and the anti-seeze did the trick, I jacked it up and took the wheels off. Then pulled the pumpkin cover and unhooked the driveshaft... Took the pinion nut off and put anti-seeze on the washer, put it back on and took it another .... well almost a 1/4 turn and presto, 25 inch pounds to rotate the yoke! Finally I can put this project to rest, I hope this thread helps someone else in the future.
Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread!

Chuck