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signs the hot side is too small? time to upgrade?

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I'm curious why you're not launching with any boost? To pull 1.8's without boost is great considering what's left on the plate.

It looked like you left around 3700 with 0psi, do you have traction issues or something that you're not leaving with say, 10psi of boost on the foot brake?

You don't need or want a 3800 0psi stall on this car, leaving at 3400rpm with say 10psi would make WAY more torque and help the coupling on the top end since it's not so loooooooose like it currently is.

PTC all the way after you pull this sloppy pile, don't bother having them tweak it and spend more $$ on it.
 
I'm curious why you're not launching with any boost? To pull 1.8's without boost is great considering what's left on the plate.

It looked like you left around 3700 with 0psi, do you have traction issues or something that you're not leaving with say, 10psi of boost on the foot brake?

You don't need or want a 3800 0psi stall on this car, leaving at 3400rpm with say 10psi would make WAY more torque and help the coupling on the top end since it's not so loooooooose like it currently is.

PTC all the way after you pull this sloppy pile, don't bother having them tweak it and spend more $$ on it.

This has been my struggle! grr......

If i foot brake any more then 2500-2600 rpms the brakes are over powered and I roll forward :mad:

no traction issues (325/50-15's ) accumulate the boost coming in late is making it hard because it SLAMS in at after one second causing me to spin half way through the 60 foot, rather then getting everything at the start where the weight transfer would aid in traction.

if i launch like this and don't spin at all it will pull a 1.74 60 foot.... best i can get.

I also set the boost high on the control with warning at 24psi, the controller then subtract i think 6% and this lets me get 20-21 psi.

the split second of 24 psi helps the car move out, it happens the boost controller sees it but the scan does not

so how do i get a 10 psi 3400 stall ?
 
150lb manely (same as ls1) looking for exact part number .............

god if I'm floating these I'm going to shoot myself, head work must be done to run the dual coil springs :mad: on these heads

i think these are the specs on the springs

1.076" Top
1.311" Bottom .650" Top
.885" Bottom 150 @ 1.800
355 @ 1.200 341 1.085"

Manley Performance - Niche Market - Chevy LS Series

part 221428-16

What is your exact measured installed height? Your working them really hard with that cam and rocker setup no doubt. That is not a typical hydraulic cam grind id use in a turbo engine especially with 1.7 rockers. This could be the problem.

I like these comp 26120 conical springs a lot:
OD: Top 1.095" Bottom 1.445"
ID: Top .650" Bottom 1.000"
Seat Pressure: 155 lbs @ 1.880''
Open Pressure: 377 lbs @ 1.280''
Coil Bind: 1.230"
Spring Rate: 370 lbs/in

If these will fit they will help the valve train a lot but you really need to get the lift at or under .550 with the hydraulic unless you want to limit the rpm potential. I recently made repeated dyno pulls to 6500 with the 26120 springs and they had no problem controlling the valves. I only ran approx .550 lift and the cam ramp speed i used was less than the one you are using. I have them shimmed so that they are about .030 from bind at max lift. I had about 165 at the seat. The ones you listed id typically use something like that on an engine with about .500 lift that wont be revved over 5900 rpm. More lift and fast ramp like your cam has leaves a lot of uncertainty in my mind. You need a different converter too.
 
What is your exact measured installed height? Your working them really hard with that cam and rocker setup no doubt. That is not a typical hydraulic cam grind id use in a turbo engine especially with 1.7 rockers. This could be the problem.

I like these comp 26120 conical springs a lot:
OD: Top 1.095" Bottom 1.445"
ID: Top .650" Bottom 1.000"
Seat Pressure: 155 lbs @ 1.880''
Open Pressure: 377 lbs @ 1.280''
Coil Bind: 1.230"
Spring Rate: 370 lbs/in

If these will fit they will help the valve train a lot but you really need to get the lift at or under .550 with the hydraulic unless you want to limit the rpm potential. I recently made repeated dyno pulls to 6500 with the 26120 springs and they had no problem controlling the valves. I only ran approx .550 lift and the cam ramp speed i used was less than the one you are using. I have them shimmed so that they are about .030 from bind at max lift. I had about 165 at the seat. The ones you listed id typically use something like that on an engine with about .500 lift that wont be revved over 5900 rpm. More lift and fast ramp like your cam has leaves a lot of uncertainty in my mind. You need a different converter too.
installed at 1.8 inches

this is from a 3800 vender that runs mid 8's with these springs

* Installed load is 150 pounds at 1.800", 177 pounds at 1.720", and 355 pounds at 1.200".
* Coil bind height is 1.085".
* Outside diameter is 1.311"/1.076" and inside diameter is .885"/.650".
* Maximum lift supported @ 1.72" (stock retainer install height) - .600"
* Maximum lift supported @ 1.80" (CompCams LS1 retainer install height) - .600"
 
Well I'd get a transbrake then, not sure what is available for your trans but our manual brakes are pretty cheap. Lonnie at Extreme Automatics just released a new transbrake that he might be able to retro fit in your application.

Bison, is it possible the converter is coupling better as the load increases down the track and he's reached almost double the stall rpm? I've seen valve float on Imports and it doesn't drop rpm like this, it just dropped power a bunch and made it hard to increase rpm, not plummet it. This is really odd. :confused:
 
Well I'd get a transbrake then, not sure what is available for your trans but our manual brakes are pretty cheap. Lonnie at Extreme Automatics just released a new transbrake that he might be able to retro fit in your application.

Bison, is it possible the converter is coupling better as the load increases down the track and he's reached almost double the stall rpm? I've seen valve float on Imports and it doesn't drop rpm like this, it just dropped power a bunch and made it hard to increase rpm, not plummet it. This is really odd. :confused:

far as i know Rossler is the only one that makes a 4l60E trans brake, i just need to send my trans to him to upgrade to full Stage III and add the brake
 
installed at 1.8 inches

this is from a 3800 vender that runs mid 8's with these springs

Mid 8's with a hydraulic cam? Thats commendable. Im not convinced they are ok in your application.
 
Well I'd get a transbrake then, not sure what is available for your trans but our manual brakes are pretty cheap. Lonnie at Extreme Automatics just released a new transbrake that he might be able to retro fit in your application.

Bison, is it possible the converter is coupling better as the load increases down the track and he's reached almost double the stall rpm? I've seen valve float on Imports and it doesn't drop rpm like this, it just dropped power a bunch and made it hard to increase rpm, not plummet it. This is really odd. :confused:

Actually added load from gearing and wind resistance will cause a higher flash stall in higher gears causing later coupling. Whenever ive seen valve float power dropped off substantially but the engine didnt lose rpm. Eventually it will backfire if it ets really bad.
 
Mid 8's with a hydraulic cam? Thats commendable. Im not convinced they are ok in your application.

yes hydroilc cam, I don't know of any car that runs a solid roller in our motors, i'm not even sure if anyone makes a lifter to do so.

They run 8.6's one is a FWD car one is RWD camaro

the cam they run is 230/224 @ .536 and .534 with 1.6 rockers (in fact they only recommend the 130 springs )

should also note same vendor has a car in the high 8's with a stock bottom end L67 (same as L36 only lower CR from the factory for the M90's that came with the GTP's )

YouTube - World record 8.65 FWD 3800 GP
 
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